Well, I had made a thread on this a couple months ago. My battery light would flicker occassionally then it stopped for the past couple months. Now it flickers when my tach goes over 2000. It's been doing for several days now and I figure I should go ahead and replace the alternator. I would like to know where to get a quality piece. Thanks gents!

 

I've read great reviews from these guys.

DB Electrical Starter-Alternator

 

Might also want to check your connections, loose cables dirty connections can make the alternator go crazy.
If you do have to replace it and can wait for it to be shipped The DB unit Chris posted the link to is a great unit.

 

I ended up with a dead alt, pulling a trailer, with the family in the truck, middle of BFE Oregon at the end of August. I slapped in a reman from Carquest (the only parts store around, and I had to call ahead and have my wife ask the guy nicely to wait for us to arrive) and it's been working great so far. I'm sure the DB is a nice unit, but if you need it quick I would at least try Carquest.

 

The truck hasn't been acting up yet, but I'm just waiting for it to leave me set somewhere. I checked all connections and everythng looks good.

 

Brandon has that shinny one, I don't remember where he got it from. I want one of the shinny ones for my truck.

 

He got it from the same place that Chris got the pink powder coated one for his wife..................DB

 

Oh they powder coat them there too?

 

Yes they do!

http://www.db-starter-alternator.com...ncoln-Mercury/
chrome


http://www.db-starter-alternator.com...wder%20Coated/
powder coated

 

Is 200+ amps overkill?

 

No especially if you run high current devices

 

Bigger is always better, right???

But didn't I read somewhere that it was recommended to get their wiring harness for high output alternators just to be on the safe side?

 

On the DB site they sell the larger wire and fuse that is needed for the high output alternator. The only reason I would think you wold need the high output alt is if you were pushing some really heavy stereo amps.
This is from the db site on the wiring kit needed
4 GAUGE WIRING FUSE BLOCK KIT FOR
High Output 200+ Amp Alternator

This kit is a must when changing over your original alternator to a
200+ amp High Output Model alternator.

Included in the kit:
6 Feet of Red 4 Gauge Super-Flex stranded Cable
1 ANL AE6573 GOLD Fuse Block with Cover
1 - ANL 250 AMP Gold Fuse
8 - # 4 Solid Copper Ring Terminals
1 Foot - Black Heat Shrink Tubing to complete the Job

This 'do it yourself' wiring kit is easy to install:
1. First measure the length of cable you will need from the alternator main charging post to the ANL Fuse Holder. Use crimpers or Vise Grips to crimp the copper ring terminals to the wire and install the heat shrink over these connectors.

2. Next measure the length of cable you will need to connect the fuse holder to the positive post on the battery. Use crimpers or Vise Grips to crimp the copper ring terminals to the wire and install the heat shrink over these connectors.

3. Complete your wiring by bolting your connectors to the alternator,
fuse holder, and battery.

4. Now your alternator is fully protected from short-circuits.

Below is a picture of what a completed wiring circuit should look like when you finish.
The longer cable connects to the alternator,
the shorter cable connects to your battery.

 

It is good idea
FORD CHEVY HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR FUSE BLOCK WIRING KIT 101: WIRING KIT-101 4 GAUGE- 6 FT - 250AMP ANL FUSE DB Electrical Starter-Alternator

This is the set up that DB sells

 

man RedBoat...I can stare at your avatar for hours....nice!

Russ