I have a 1950 F-1. I'm getting ready to send it out to be sandblasted. Should I have the frame checked for straightness? If so, can I do it myself or she I take it to a shop.
Terry

 

Not to hi-jack the thread, but my 53 has a bow to both frame rails. They both bow out towards the driver's side as in the bows run parallel to each other. Any suggestions on how to straighten this at home? I suspect I'll have to ignore it or take it to a shop. If it goes to a shop, any ideas on what they might charge? I hope this furthers Terrb's inquiry.

 

Depends on how much bow there is from straight and where it is. Does the bow start inside or outside the crossmembers? Sounds like the truck was T-boned on the pass side sometime. You could straighten it yourself if you are ambitious and have access to some I beam stock, but depending on where you are located it might be better/easier to find another frame. If you want someone else to straighten it, I'd suggest talking to some local circle track racers to see if there is someone they'd recommend, they straighten crash damaged frames regularly.

 

you can probably check it yourself, let me know if you need frame dimensions, i've got em.
and welcome to FTE!!

 

drop by your local body shop and talk to their frame guy. with no cab or anything in the way he can pull the frame in a hour or less and shouldn't be over 300 but in this area closer to 200. Drop it off and have him do it during off times when he isn't busy. I pull late model stuff all the time and with my laser trams I can get perfect if someone wants to pay for it but 1/64 inch is no problem at all.
Good luck what ever you decide
Larry

 

Once you have the frame down to rails and crossmembers, you'll find it to be pretty flexible. The bonus built frame rails are supposed to be straight from the rear to the point where they pinch in at the front. The 53-56 rails are straight front to rear. You can easily check for straightness/bowing by stretching a string along the outer corners. Check for twist with a square against the outer side with the frame sitting flat on the floor and/or sighting down the length of a corner like checking a 2x4 for straightness. I wouldn't worry too much about squaring the frame or any twist across the frame until you start putting it back together. When you do, set it on 4 jackstands and shim until the frame is level front to back and side to side. Put a 50# bag or two of sand on top the frame over each stand to hold it level until the suspension is all on and you are ready to put wheels on it. Check the frame for square by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner at identical points on the frame. The measurements should be the same within 1/8". If not wrack the frame until it is square, then clamp or tack weld a couple lengths of 1" square tubing diagonally across the frame to hold it square until the cab is in place. Mark the locations of everything, the thickness of shims on each jackstand etc. just in case someone or something bumps into it, it may be there a while.

 

The quickest way to tell is if its been listening to 'It's Raining Men' a lot and dresses in hot pink and tells you you look fab-u-las a lot, if so it's not straight.

If that doesn't work listen to someone other than me, lol.

 

 

I started working on a 1949 F-1 and just got my frame back a couple of months ago. I had to have some things fixed on the frame, engine supports added, last 2 crossmembers replaced, and a new trans crossmember welded in as well as having the front end and back end straightened. After having it blasted I had it primed and painted. The repairs and paint job cost me $1000. I think it was responsible, but not a deal. I hope that helps.