Hey peeps,
In a previous post I talked about the oil pressure dropping off to 0. I had the pump replaced at the dealer, but there is a knocking so I guess I have to go in and see if it can be fixed with new bearings or a new engine. But before I do all of that I would like some assurances that I am not doing something stupid. A) It knocks on start up but once the oil is flowing good it ticks. B) Everything else with the engine is just fine. I have started dis assembly but I am considering putting what I have done back together and letting it run to operating temp. At the same time I am trying to limit damage. Before I go too far in any direction I would appreciate your input.

5.4 Ltr Windsor V8, 1999, generally in excellent condition.

 

From what it sounds like,you could have a damaged Main,or rod bearing.
In the past (Not on a Ford Truck) i have found I can just replace the defective bearing(s) providing it didnt mess up the crank journal.
If you feel like exploring,Id pull the pan,and drop a few rod,and main caps.Look at the bearings,and crank condition.If the zero oil pressure didnt last but for a little while,damage could possibly be minimal.Im thinking positively of course!

 

Thanks for the reply. Dropping the pan is tantamount to pulling the engine, so I'm pulling the engine. At least I will be able to flip it over on the stand and inspect all the crank and rod bearings. I might as well replace them all if I replace any I would have to anyway. I am being positive too. I think the damage is minimal. I'll be looking for heavy scoring and signs of unusual wear. Not sure what else until I get in there. I'm also going to mic each surface and see how much they differ from one another.

What I can't stand is that the engine is virtually under the dash board and some things a very hard to get to like the harness which goes behind the engine. Don't know if there are any clamps or tie wraps or anything back there. The book says remove the A/C compressor and put it aside without undoing any hoses. Well that makes perfect sense except you can't remove the bolts because they are long and hit the frame. It also says to remove the intake manifold. Is that really necessary? And this is aluminum so I am afraid of breaking stuff. What is the best way to lift? If I remove the intake manifold can I bolt the hoist chains into the places on the block where the manifold bolts go?

Anything you can think of would be appreciated.

 

it might be more aerodynamic, but I dislike the hiding of the motor, too. For warranty work, alone, most would think they ought to make it a little more accessible - save themselves some $$$ in the long run.

 

Can I bolt the hoist chains to the head where the intake manifold mounts without damaging it? Do the exhaust manifolds have to come off? I read another post where it said he could have done it without removing the manifolds, but it was a 4.6 ltr not a 5.4.

 

You can pull it out with the exhaust manifolds on. I pulled off the intake then took out a bolt from the back where the engine and the transmission bolt together and treaded it back in from the engine side and used that to hook up the chain. As for the front I removed the alternator and found a treaded hole to use.
Two bolts on the compressor will come out completely. The third one only has to be turned out enough so the compressor will move then the bolt will fall out.

 

Thanks for the response. The manual says something about lifting places near the exhaust manifold, but I can't see them. I'll leave the manifolds on to see if I can get the engine out. Right now I am trying to get the bracket that holds the harness to the back of the engine off. The question "how the hell did they assemble this?!" keeps popping into my head!