Ok, I didn't think I would post two separate posts on here about two separate problem in the span of two weeks.

Anyways, my alternator died. At school, still. Need to know if anyone out there is willing to give me the information on tools needed to take out the alternator and replace with a new or rebuilt one.

I don't think it's that hard of a job but never done one before.

On top of that I'm running a pretty sick sound system and notice the lights dim when it hits, would a more powerful alternator help this? should I get one anyway for this reason?

Please and thank you in advance.

 

As for the sound system, the Alternator and Battery need to be in top shape.

Our Alternators are relatively easy to change out - not as easy as some vehicles, but not a nightmare, either. The first thing you'll need is a wrench to disconnect the battery(!).

Beyond that, a long enough ratchet to reach down, fit into the square hole for the idler pulley, and use it for leverage to put slack in the serpentine beltt so you can take it off.

The place where I'd say it isn't as easy as some vehicles is: to make the job easier on me, I remove some of the brackets that can get in the way (mounted to the top of my motor). One has to keep track of all the bolts and the bracket(s)... it takes a little bit of time, but it's not hard to get to.

I'd say you may need a(n) 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 14mm socket (or there abouts for the bolts that hold the alternator on), plus the ratchets (I can't remember which size the idler-pulley's square hole is, it may be a larger 1/2" ratchet or the regular 3/8" one).

You will have a diagram on how to put the belt back on, but if you've never done belts before - take a good look at how it was on, first, and maybe take some pictures of its routing to save yourself five or ten minutes of confusion (again, if you're really new to it).

now as for the replacement alternator... these days I don't think anyone makes a rebuild kit for modern alternators (i used to buy the kits from Summit Racing for older alts). Buy a rebuilt alternator that has a lifetime warranty if your truck has under 100k miles on it. The lifetime warranty alternator I bought (a higher-amp version, too) went bad just over a year after putting it in. I had to change it out the second time in the auto-parts' parking lot :-(

Best,

 

I already have the alternator out and at a shop to get it rebuilt here in town.

All i needed was a 3/8 ratchet with a 10mm socket, short extension, and a 5/16 wrench? i believe for the battery cables.

took about 20 minutes to remove once I found tools around campus. My belt is old so I easily stretched it over the pulley and let it dangle there, a belt only takes a little common sense to put back on.

the rebuild is 200 for a 180 amp upgrade to help my cause with the sound system. 140 for the 130 amp rebuild alone. now just to get it back in without breaking anything and to get back home without something else going wrong, my belt definitely has to be changed and possibly the radiator hoses.

 

I can't imagine one allowing that much slack, but it sorta sounds like your tensioner pulley's spring is weak if you could pull the slack out.

Interesting.

 

I'm a strong guy I can stretch things. I'll check it once I get back home, I didn't attempt to touch the tensioner because I figured the less stuff I touch the less likely something will break.

 

A capacitor will help the sound system more than anything. The alternator voltage regulator doesn't react fast enough to keep up with the amps. A capacitor will store power and keep the amps fed a more constant voltage. It will help your alternator last longer too.

Power Acoustik - 5-Farad Capacitor - PCX-5F

 

Just a thought to help with saving your alt. and battery and possably stopping the pulsing lights look into a Farrad Cap for your sound system. It's pretty much a capacitor for your system. It holds voltage and gives you reserve voltage for better power handling. Look into it they're not that expensive and easy to install..... Good luck.

 

so I should install a capacitor to provide consistent power to my system rather than inconsistent power from the alternator?

sounds like a plan, home many or how big of a capacitor would I need for a 1000w amp?

 

dag gum. the shop where i get all my sound system stuff 12 Gauge audio (in my sig pic) that exact same capacitor is 50 bucks. 22 cheaper than best buy. i feel bad for people that dont have the same type of great shop. but back to the op the capacitor will do the best after you get the alternator rebuilt and upgraded. how many watts are you pulling in your system if its making your lights dim. my friend has 3000 watt system pushing 2 power acoustics 12's and he had to get a capacitor cause his HID's would dim almost completely off. you must be pushing some serious wattage.

 

Sounds like you should put in the biggest battery you can.

 

Caps are worthless. Make sure you have a good battery, good alternator and large cables from the alternator to the battery, from the battery to the amps and from the battery to the frame.

 

I'm going to have to check the numbers because searching brand of amp on google image, i'm coming up with a couple different kinds of amps ranging from 1000-3000 w. I'll have to check the numbers tomorrow.

My brother got this amp from a friend who got it from a dealer from a trade center in Michigan.

It's a kole audio amp, pushing 2 12" image dynamic id subs in a hand built ported box the size of the back seat of my super crew.