Front Driveline Vibration
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Front Driveline Vibration
Hey guys, got a problem. I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty Platinum Edition 4x4. I have recently replaced both front shocks and sway arm bushings in the front. Both sides have recent new ball joints. My problem now is a loud vibration when I hit some bumps on the road. I can drive for miles and nothins and the smallest bump and all hell breaks loose. The only thing that makes it go away at an instant is to put her in 4wd hi. I am thinking u-joints on the front diff or maybe the slip joint (slip joint was a problem a couple of years ago and was replaced with a new drive shaft, dad didn't know you could grease it 
until I read it here on FTE). Also if I come across another bump in the road after it starts is goes away. Anyhow wadda ya think. It's a diesel crew cab if that makes any diff. Let me know before i start pulling stuff apart. Thanks.
PS: Planning on goin through the brakes with new pads and rotors all around and the tires are just about gone but this noise comes and goes with different bumps in the road, not there all the time.
until I read it here on FTE). Also if I come across another bump in the road after it starts is goes away. Anyhow wadda ya think. It's a diesel crew cab if that makes any diff. Let me know before i start pulling stuff apart. Thanks.PS: Planning on goin through the brakes with new pads and rotors all around and the tires are just about gone but this noise comes and goes with different bumps in the road, not there all the time.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
Hey guys, got a problem. I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty Platinum Edition 4x4. I have recently replaced both front shocks and sway arm bushings in the front. Both sides have recent new ball joints. My problem now is a loud vibration when I hit some bumps on the road. I can drive for miles and nothins and the smallest bump and all hell breaks loose. The only thing that makes it go away at an instant is to put her in 4wd hi. I am thinking u-joints on the front diff or maybe the slip joint (slip joint was a problem a couple of years ago and was replaced with a new drive shaft, dad didn't know you could grease it until I read it here on FTE). Also if I come across another bump in the road after it starts is goes away. Anyhow wadda ya think. It's a diesel crew cab if that makes any diff. Let me know before i start pulling stuff apart. Thanks.
PS: Planning on goin through the brakes with new pads and rotors all around and the tires are just about gone but this noise comes and goes with different bumps in the road, not there all the time.
until I read it here on FTE). Also if I come across another bump in the road after it starts is goes away. Anyhow wadda ya think. It's a diesel crew cab if that makes any diff. Let me know before i start pulling stuff apart. Thanks.PS: Planning on goin through the brakes with new pads and rotors all around and the tires are just about gone but this noise comes and goes with different bumps in the road, not there all the time.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
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I put new hubs on in Dec (warn standard). I have a steering damper ordered.. Thanks for the reply. I live on the west coast (deer lake area) but am originally from the burin penn...
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Post Fiend
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From: Mt. Shasta California
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: NH
My intent on the comment to you was one to be curtious and two to clearly indicate that every post you respond to does not need a quote copy of the entire post. Most of us are not uneducated in the fact that we need a reminder of the post directly following it which is clearly visible within the same window.
I am sorry that my signature "size" was the only thing available for you to comment on as well as the fact that you finish your response with an admirable appology only to end with it being negitive.
I appoligize for any misunderstanding or offense you took to my response. I was only trying to give constructive critisism.
I am sorry that my signature "size" was the only thing available for you to comment on as well as the fact that you finish your response with an admirable appology only to end with it being negitive.
I appoligize for any misunderstanding or offense you took to my response. I was only trying to give constructive critisism.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
My intent on the comment to you was one to be curtious and two to clearly indicate that every post you respond to does not need a quote copy of the entire post. Most of us are not uneducated in the fact that we need a reminder of the post directly following it which is clearly visible within the same window.
I am sorry that my signature "size" was the only thing available for you to comment on as well as the fact that you finish your response with an admirable appology only to end with it being negitive.
I appoligize for any misunderstanding or offense you took to my response. I was only trying to give constructive critisism.
I am sorry that my signature "size" was the only thing available for you to comment on as well as the fact that you finish your response with an admirable appology only to end with it being negitive.
I appoligize for any misunderstanding or offense you took to my response. I was only trying to give constructive critisism.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 588
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From: Bellville TX. Wof Houston
MAN did you ever come to the WRONG PLACE....
these guys here know nothing about this issue.
you will get a few chime in saying you need a stableizer, then the ball joint guy will show up. then the wheel berring guy will jump in. and when you have just about had it.
some guy will say NOPE you need to have the drive shaft ballanced.
O yes and it needs a front end alinement. and ballance those tires. and your running too much or too little air in the tries..
I guess what's the funnyest one is. some guy will show up and say YOUR TAKING TOO MUCH SPACE .........
Save your self a ton of ageravation take it to a shop.
these guys here know how to change light bulbs, maybe a flat tire,
other than that. they will all just start crying.
and that reminds me.......... LET THE CRYING BEGAIN.......
these guys here know nothing about this issue.
you will get a few chime in saying you need a stableizer, then the ball joint guy will show up. then the wheel berring guy will jump in. and when you have just about had it.
some guy will say NOPE you need to have the drive shaft ballanced.
O yes and it needs a front end alinement. and ballance those tires. and your running too much or too little air in the tries..
I guess what's the funnyest one is. some guy will show up and say YOUR TAKING TOO MUCH SPACE .........
Save your self a ton of ageravation take it to a shop.
these guys here know how to change light bulbs, maybe a flat tire,
other than that. they will all just start crying.
and that reminds me.......... LET THE CRYING BEGAIN.......
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
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From: Long Island USA
Now, leave this thread.
And you too can leave.
--
To the original poster, this sounds like the typical dry needle bearing inside the wheel bearing. The front axle stub rides in a needle bearing that sits inside the wheel bearing, and when you hit a bump, the bearing locks up and spins the front axle.
Two things to try:
1) Manually lock your hubs and see if the problem still exists.
2) Reach around back of the wheel, with the wheels straight, with the hubs unlocked, and try rotating the u-joint by hand. It should be somewhat hard to get moving, but once moving, be smooth and not gritty or ratchety.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 18
From: Millersburg, OH
I agree with Krewat sounds like needle bearing. If you do as Krewat said and it if does feel gritty then you want to pull of the wheel hub and lube them right way or replace them. If you don't you can damage the drive axle. Post back with what you find.
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