Gas Gauge ???
Here try this: Leave your gauge in the panel. But take the sending unit out of the tank. Cover up the gas tank hole.
Ok! First, run a wire from a power source up to the gauge a new wire outside of your wiring harness - something just temporary. Do not use the harnes wiring.
Now run a wire from the other side of the gauge to the sending unit stud (where the wire attaches).
Finally, ground the sender plate (with a wire allegator clips on it, and ground it really good) hold the sender in your hand and just let the float dangle.
Turn the power on....What happens? Gauge should run up from where the needle parks to "E" let it settle out for at least a 30 seconds. Now slowly lift up on the float arm and watch the gauge. Does the needle go up? It should.
If that doesn't happen write back to me and tell me what happened.
If it did, everything is fine, your wiring is just mis routed. This again is why I hate installing pre formed wiring harnesses instead of one wire at a time.
Also, Rusty, just confirm for me - you are using 12 volt negative ground, right? AND your cab has a grounding strap going to the engine or the frame ie the cab IS in fact grounded.
With that test, if the gauge works ok then you have your wiring criss crossed, if it doesn't then there's something wrong with the gauge or the sender.
Let me know what happens!
OK; here is what happened... When I bought my gauges, (3yrs ago) I bought AutoMeter gauges. Set of 6. I put the sending unit in my tank when I put the tank in the rear of the frame. (Last year) My son bought a truck last winter and He bought a set of 6 Dolphin gauges. I liked the gauges he bought and he liked mine so we traded. So the sending units got switched. They are supposed to be the same 240--33 but I guess they are different because he came over and we switched sending units and mine works now and so does his. 

RUSTY
I was just about to mention that the gauges and sending units were matched sets and you had to have the right one.

I'm glad it's working now!!!!!!
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