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Does anyone know of a "discount" dealer for factory colors? I went into a paint store today and got a price of $100.00 for paint and primer to do my engine block. Am I behind the times or is there a cheaper way to go? I am looking for 95 Ranger "Bright Sapphire" it's sort of a metallic purple, I don't know the code.
Unless you can get someone who has a tax ID (a business) to buy for you, figure two gallons of paint for brand name topcoat acrylic enamel (not a 2-part basecoat/clearcoat) will cost you at least $250 these days... red is more. Not uncommon for people to spend a grand for materials.
Not really sure what your asking, I never heard of anyone primering a engine block before paint and I dont know if your saying your looking for a Bright Sapphire paint to paint your block or what. But if your looking for Ford Red or Ford Green (used on the old flat heads) check out East wood.
Eastwood sell the ford engine red paint for like $12 a can. I can also get the stuff locally (might not be the exact hue of red but it says Ford Red on the can) for $6 a can in the brand I used on my 63. Only thing is that stuff chips easily till you heat the engine up and cure the paint. I used semi gloss black engine paint of the same brand on my gun barrel and when I heated it up and got it hot after it cured the paint is tough.
Now if you want to get the red that is the correct color go to Concours Parts & Accessories they offer a Ditzler Red engine paint for $75 for a quart. That should be enough to paint a complete engine unless you brush it on.
thank you all for answering, yes indeed I am priming the engine block, PPG K36 primer with a catalyst holds up very well, the block was ground smooth before it went to the machine shop. Yes the engine will be 95 Ranger "bright sapphire", that same color will used in the graphics. The brake calipers and other chassis hardware has already been done. I am hoping it will look spectacular. I just can't let all of these body mods go with just a plain job.
thank you all for answering, yes indeed I am priming the engine block, PPG K36 primer with a catalyst holds up very well, the block was ground smooth before it went to the machine shop. Yes the engine will be 95 Ranger "bright sapphire", that same color will used in the graphics. The brake calipers and other chassis hardware has already been done. I am hoping it will look spectacular. I just can't let all of these body mods go with just a plain job.
I hear ya, and hope it works ok. I'm looking at custom paint for my flattie as well.
Ah ok well then I can understand using primer if your using a special body colored engine paint.
I just never personally heard of anyone doing that. I have heard of people glyptol (spelling?) to coat the inside of the engine but I would never do that, I would worry bout the paint chipping and causing damage.
FF56, have you checked to see if duplicolor makes spray cans of that color? Also some pro auto paint stores will mix as little as a pint of color (even load it into a spray can for you) unless it is considered to be an "unmixable color" then you'll have to buy a minimum size premix.
Ah ok well then I can understand using primer if your using a special body colored engine paint.
I just never personally heard of anyone doing that. I have heard of people glyptol (spelling?) to coat the inside of the engine but I would never do that, I would worry bout the paint chipping and causing damage.
A large number of high dollar pro racing engine blocks and heads are gyptoled inside to seal the pores of the unmachined casting and aid the quick return of the oil to the pan. If done on a freshly boiled out block or heads there is no danger of chipping or peeling causing any problems in my experience.
A large number of high dollar pro racing engine blocks and heads are gyptoled inside to seal the pores of the unmachined casting and aid the quick return of the oil to the pan. If done on a freshly boiled out block or heads there is no danger of chipping or peeling causing any problems in my experience.
Yes and polishing the lifter valley and head oil return galleys will get the same results. I do that on every engine I rebuild, I remove the casting flash and I smooth everything out for quick oil return. But the real reasion I heard for glyptol is to seal any small particles so they dont find their way into the engine oil and wipe the motor out.
Personally I use a magnetic filter magnet on the bottom of a disposable filter to get all the break in metalic shavings out of the oil.
I have read on it though and that glyptol is really up to personal preference though and personally I wouldnt want any paint on the inside of the engine. Atleast that is what my book on engine blueprinting said on the stuff.
Each to their own, my good friend is a two time Supercharged Promod champ and speed shop owner. The engines he builds go into everything from street rods, circle track racers, up to fuel dragsters and can cost as much as $150K each. All his cast iron blocks and heads are sealed inside before machining even starts.
Magnet is a good idea, I use magnetic oil drain plugs myself, but a strong alinco disc magnet stuck to the outside of the oil filter cartridge housing works too just don't forget and throw it away with the old filter.