Yup,thats what I'm starting to think also,as all was well when it was parked.It's just confusing when it does run fine for about a min then, sput, sput ,sput, dead. At worst it might be that my floats are sticking.I'm thinking that if the gas evaporated then only a varnish type stuff may have been left behind in the fuel bowls.I just wish things were easier to get to.

 

the first picture is your fuel pressure regulator the second line coming in the top, is not a supply, it is a return line to allow unused fuel pressure to return to the tank.
the thing you blew through is the only fuel filter
I would replace the regulator before i tried rebuiling the holley
I just replaced mine and added another filter to the line. Used one easier to get to and clean.
the stock filter has an inserted filter media that can be removed. i had to destroy my original filter element with a pocket knife to get it out but the replacement was only about 8-10$

Ps my problems came from the truck sitting idle and rust from the tank got into the fuel lines. the filter i added is glass and easy to get to so i can clean it as needed

 

Today I borrowed a couple of empty gas cans to put the old gas into & I have fresh gas to put in,so we'll see what happens then. if still a no go I'll be replacing the regulator (thank you) & the fuel filter & I am also going to open up the float bowls & make sure the floats are moving freely.I was thinking that if the gas in the bowls had evaporated it may have left a varnish behind?

 

Carefull of the bowl gaskets i managed to reuse mine when i pulled my bowl off

 

If it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck...
Tried to siphon out the gas tanks today,found out there is an anti siphon gizmo in the fill line. So I disconected the fill line past the gizmo, & tried again,there must be another one going into the tank? So no luck siphoning
So next I opened the line going into the regulator, {orange box} turned the key on,no fuel,crank over the engine got gas flowing but only 2 to 3 lbs psi. So now I'm confused.

1. If I have electric fuel pumps in the tanks,then why is there no gas from either tank with the key on?
2. Why is there only gas while cranking over the engine?

It's acting like a bad mechanical fuel pump,but no mechanical fuel pump on it?
Any other ideas out there?

 

our model only turns on the pump when engine is running or cranking

durning start up the pumps are turned on by the ignition swich then a oil pressure switch keeps em on

get someone to crank the engine while your watching the line try it from both tanks

note: the starter can only be turned for 30 seconds before your could damage it and give it 10 minutes or so to cool down between 30sec runs

if your not getting good fuel pressure from either tank you may have a stopped up line or tank selector switch

 

I got a manual on this engine & it says (as a test) to unplug the oil psi switch & put a jumper wire in it. I did as you can see by this photo Now when I start it it runs alot longer like 3,4,5 min's...Why?? I also found the inertia switch
but when I either push down or lift up on the white reset button nothing changes. When I unplug it I'm back to running only for 30 seconds or so. I'm going to leave my floats alone for now as when it's running it runs smooth as can be.I can rev it up no problem.
Can I bypass either of these to get this thing running?
Does what I've explained here & with my previous posts tell anyone what part I need?

 

In that first pic of the jumper wire, thats a sending unit for the oil presure & if for some reason you lost oil presure, it would ground out the ignition & the engine would shut down. Might could suspect that sending unit to be bad.
While you had the engine running, how much oil presure the engine have ??.

In the other pic, I'm not 100% sure, but that switch is for if you happen to have a wreck, it would shut the power down to the fuel pump & stop fuel flow, just a disconnect or reset.

In your pic's early on, the pic of the T like fitting next to the carb, it looks nothing like the fuel regulator thats on my 460, but I have an 87 model on a John Deere chassis.

I would say just as a test, if you was to take one of those gas cans, another electric fuel pump & some fuel hose & rig it up into that fitting thats suppose to be your regulator making another supply source to the carb, you would bypass the whole fuel system on the M/H just to see if the engine will run any lenght of time.
Once you had the engine running & if it ran ok, you would know that from where you hooked the hose on, for there back to the tank is where the problem would be.

It may have been in this thread, I cant remember right off where it was said, but just because an in tank fuel pump has been replaced with a new one dont mean everythings ok. Sometimes a new pump is no good either, I've heard of that happening & then got to pull that one out & replace it. By then though, after dealing with pulling the tank & all & putting it back in a person can get a short fuse & easy to go off on someone or pull you hair out.
I think a fuel pump inside a fuel tank is the most stupid idea I've ever heard of & should have never ever been used on anything sold. Its just another one of those things in the world today made just for screwing the american piblic out of a dollar & has probably caused a wreck to be worse.

Looking at the first pic, the jumper wire,,, that 1/2" tube thats running from one head to the other & sitting behind the sending unit, thats an air passage way suppling air to the little ports inside the exhaust port & if the systems not working right, hot exhaust will be blown back through it & could melt those wires that are close to it, so check for that.
All you need for that system not to work right, is to get a vacumme leak in the hose that causes it to operate & then you end up with the back flow. Just thought I would mention that.
Neil

 

Hi Niel...Thanks for replying to my post.

It only has an idiot gauge in it,but it is reading in the normal range,about 1/2 way in the gauge. I also unpluged the wire from the oil psi sending unit & it still ran 3,4,5 minutes.

And it doesn't seem to "click" like a reset button should?

No kiddin !! I didn't believe it when I first heard it. Thats why I posted a pic asking if this was a fuel pump.

 

The pic above is your tank selector switch.

Pump in the tank is a dumb idea but it's what we all face now.

Reset switch will only feel like it is resetting if it is tripped.

 

Would a Fuel Inertia switch go bad or break because the unit was sitting for a year?

 

The in-tank fuel pumps and the valve that switches the tank were absolute CRAP when these vehicles were new. Today, nothing has changed.

I see dozens of posts every day, with members having like problems as yours.

I'm no expert on classes of Motor Homes, but if the front end is the same as an Econoline, everything else will be Econoline.

This style is known as a Cut-Away. In other words, the cab is cut off behind the front seats, then the Motor Home body is installed.

 

probaly not, if your getting fuel at all it should be fine it's an on/off switch

 

Yes it's the same as a van.

 

I replaced the fuel cut off relay the green one on the drivers side
inner-fender well. The easy part was changing it, I had to remove the aux battery to find it. Then do some wire jumping to be sure that it was the part.
Thanks to all that gave me ideas & suggestions.