Since the search feature cancels out ZF in the searches, I'll have to start a new thread...

Thus far I've run into these obstacles.

1. Trans mount needs move back further than the factory crossmember allows.
2. A hole is needed for the drain plug.
3. Drive shaft angle to the front is going to interfere with the crossmember.

Any words of advice or links to threads?
I solved 2 by blasting a hole in the crossmember, and 1 by welding a piece of U channel to the back of the factory crossmember.

 

I made a new x-member that addressed two issues, and my truck will ride on 42" rubber so the front d-shaft issue is not aproblem for me either.
The only that that came up with my swap was my trans hits the trans tunnel, and the body.
Any reason why you cant just make a new x-member, and not have to use that
U-channel? Have you any pics of this?

 

I will try to snap some pics in the nears future. I could make a new x-member, but I was trying to keep the original stuff intact if I could, in case I need to swap a different trans back in, and also to eliminate having to make extra parts. I did notice the body/x-member interference issue, but I was also concerned about engine angle/slope by lowering it much further than what I did.

 

I am looking to do a swap like this in a 73 that I am getting. its a 302 truck with a 3spd on the column. did everything work as far as the clutch and linkage? were the issues you listed the only ones you ran into?

 

Yeah pics. Ive got a 79 shortbed im swapping in a 300/zf. Any issues with bolting a 205 to the zf?

 

There was a question regarding a ZF and clutch linkage, and unless you have a ZF in front of you, you will notice that there is no linkage whatsoever. The ZF's clutch uses a hydraulic slave to activate the clutch. This means no linkages.

Just for you Dave:

There are minimal requirements when bolting up a 205 to a ZF trans. Since the input splines are identical from case to case, we save some time and money. The stock adapter can be used, and the two pieces will bolt right up. The only critical factors are the linkages, for the t-case, and some small issues with the drain plug. Of course the lengths of the trans is different, so some fab work will have to be done to accomodate this, but I am sure that we would expect this.
Biggest factor is the adapter, and the shift rails on the t-case. A slight adjustment has to be made in order for the "range rail" to clear the adapter. Its only a small cut, and after this, it appears to lokk like factory.

Here are a couple of pics. These were taken during my CC build:

complete install pic:


Now I am just showing off:


the money shot:


the cut on the adapter:


Gonna give you a real big hint here. Notice the two shofter bosses. This makes the twin stick option a piece of cake!!!!



Yes Dave, I am building a crew!!!! Might not be as nice as yours, but it will be decent.........

 

I am probably hijacking this thread by now but I am relatively new to these trucks so I end up with a lot of questions. My 73 is a 2 wheel drive and I am looking to ditch the 3-spd on the column for a 4 or 5-speed from a later model truck and am trying to figure out which transmissions will work for my swap. If there is any input on this PM me, this way I don't totally destroy this thread haha.

 

There's the old cast iron 4-speeds, the mazda built M5OD (light duty) 5-speed from F-150's, Bronco's, and some F-250's, and the ZF 5-speed. A cast iron unit would be the quickest and easiest swap as the later two require a hydraulic pedal conversion.

 

See im installing the hydro clutch that came wiht my tranny (bought the whole totalled truck). SO ill have to modify my firewall and clutch pedal assembly. Ed dude im sure the crew you have will be nicer than mine. You got more knowledge and cash to throw at it than i do.

 

Ahhhh, I dont know about that buddy. You are making me blush.
My junk is looking pretty though. Almost gonna be ashamed to pound this thing in the mud. Probably wont be an every day thing, but you know I am gonna have see if it will sink or swim right?????


BTw, only slight mods have to be done to accomodate the hydro clutch, and it is worth it in every way.
Benn running this in my orange truck for a year or so, and it is awesome.

 

Agreed. All it takes is a few holes in the firewall, and a quick mod to the clutch pedal assembly.

Did you run a factory line from the master to slave?

 

Braided stainless steel line for the new hydraulic unit. This is what I use on my 73 truck too.
I am tossing around the idea of hydroboost on the CC, because the brake booster does not clear my pretty valve covers. Ran into this problem with a 75 that I am building too.
For the most part, I have a hydraulic shop make up some lines.
(Thanks G&J Aircraft)

 

Interesting...I'd love to see some uninstalled pics of the lines. I don't recall off the top of my head what each end looks like, so I am having a hard time envisioning a fabricated line as I thought it was basically all plastic line.

 

I will be at the shop later today, and I will snap a couple of pics of the lines as they are installed in the truck. I will also post up some pics of the new lines for the CC. These are still at G&J aircraft, so this might take a day or two.
This does require some work, but it is not more than the average wrench cant handle.

 

Might I inquire what they charge for some lines?