Radiator blew
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 333
Likes: 1
From: Toledo, Ohio
Radiator blew
98 E-350 V-10 with 175k.
The upper plastic tank of my original radiator split and leaked a gallon or so of coolant. Replaced radiator with a new one quickly and am thinking of replacing hoses/ water pump next before I'm stranded again.
Did a search for water pump and didnt find any issues with same in this forum. Wondering if I should even bother as hoses are pliable and pump appears to be fine...........Any one else had issues with water pump and or hoses? (lower hose looks like an octopus, by the way!)
Are there any other obscure coolant hoses on the V-10? (van has rear heat and those were replaced by previous owner.)
Also, does anyone here just replace their idler/tensioner pulleys' bearings with a common 3203 bearing????
The bearings only cost about $5 or so and if you look around you can find them for under $2!
John
The upper plastic tank of my original radiator split and leaked a gallon or so of coolant. Replaced radiator with a new one quickly and am thinking of replacing hoses/ water pump next before I'm stranded again.
Did a search for water pump and didnt find any issues with same in this forum. Wondering if I should even bother as hoses are pliable and pump appears to be fine...........Any one else had issues with water pump and or hoses? (lower hose looks like an octopus, by the way!)
Are there any other obscure coolant hoses on the V-10? (van has rear heat and those were replaced by previous owner.)
Also, does anyone here just replace their idler/tensioner pulleys' bearings with a common 3203 bearing????
The bearings only cost about $5 or so and if you look around you can find them for under $2!
John
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,595
Likes: 0
From: IL
Did it split where the metal and plastic/vinyl join? If so same thing happened to our T-Bird and my Ranger. I put a Modine in my my Ranger. She has the original water pump and as far as I know my F250 has never had a water pump replaced, or so i wasn't told by the previous owner of it when I picked his brain - he never kept repair records.
I am particular about preventative maintenance i.e. flushing the cooling system every 2-3 years, etc, and keeping thorough records on what has been done and when.
On the other hand I've had to put two pumps in my little lady's 93 T-Bird. Due to the age of your E350 I'd go with replacing hoses, even the heater core hoses. Rubber, plastic etc, breaks down over time. Another set of hoses that are often overlooked and very important is the front brake line hoses. They can look fine on the outside but the inside can and does breakdown and can cause calipers to stick or not back off the rotor completely.
As for your pulleys, I don't know if you can actually separate the pulley from the bearing if that's what you're asking!?! I just bought the whole assembly for my Ranger but don't remember part #'s.
I am particular about preventative maintenance i.e. flushing the cooling system every 2-3 years, etc, and keeping thorough records on what has been done and when.On the other hand I've had to put two pumps in my little lady's 93 T-Bird. Due to the age of your E350 I'd go with replacing hoses, even the heater core hoses. Rubber, plastic etc, breaks down over time. Another set of hoses that are often overlooked and very important is the front brake line hoses. They can look fine on the outside but the inside can and does breakdown and can cause calipers to stick or not back off the rotor completely.
As for your pulleys, I don't know if you can actually separate the pulley from the bearing if that's what you're asking!?! I just bought the whole assembly for my Ranger but don't remember part #'s.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 10,101
Likes: 40
From: Pa
If the hoses are original I would replace them. As for the water pump I don't know. Waterpumps will usually start leaking out the weep hole to let you know they are shot. If you can get a water pump for under $150 and the pump is original it might be a good ide to replace.
The tensier pulley is plastic and the pulley is molded right over the bearing so that is a throwawy item. The bearing can be replaced on the idler pulley as it is a standard bearing. If you are careful you can also remove the bearing seal and grease it. (has to have seals not metal shields) I've replaced and regreased several idler pulley bearings already on other vehicles.
If considering replacing brake hoses I would get a set of aftermarket stainless lines. My dad got all 5 brake hoses replaced on his 03' with rubber hoses and it costa bit more than a 5pc. set of the Russel braded stainless line. A complete break system flush does wonders also.
The tensier pulley is plastic and the pulley is molded right over the bearing so that is a throwawy item. The bearing can be replaced on the idler pulley as it is a standard bearing. If you are careful you can also remove the bearing seal and grease it. (has to have seals not metal shields) I've replaced and regreased several idler pulley bearings already on other vehicles.
Rubber, plastic etc, breaks down over time. Another set of hoses that are often overlooked and very important is the front brake line hoses. They can look fine on the outside but the inside can and does breakdown and can cause calipers to stick or not back off the rotor completely.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 420
From: Long Island USA
I know my idler and tensioner pullies are both metal, so the bearing could be pressed out - good info to know.
Water pumps? Nothing to report - if it's not weeping at the breather hole, and when you have the belt off, do this: Spin the water pump pulley. As it comes to a stop, it should go back and forth a little bit just as it comes to a stop. This means the water seal is still good and the bearing is smooth. In other words, push the pulley in one direction slowly, as you let go, it should rebound slightly, maybe a millimeter or two. Also, check the bearing for slop in and out.
Water pumps? Nothing to report - if it's not weeping at the breather hole, and when you have the belt off, do this: Spin the water pump pulley. As it comes to a stop, it should go back and forth a little bit just as it comes to a stop. This means the water seal is still good and the bearing is smooth. In other words, push the pulley in one direction slowly, as you let go, it should rebound slightly, maybe a millimeter or two. Also, check the bearing for slop in and out.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 333
Likes: 1
From: Toledo, Ohio
I think I'll try just re-newing the upper hose and leave everything else alone.....
Reason for upper; it takes the most pressure and heat.
Modine has all but shutdown their local plant, My radiator came from Napa and it was
made in China!
Old one split longitudinally at the top of the tank, right down the middle about 6-8 "
John
Reason for upper; it takes the most pressure and heat.
Modine has all but shutdown their local plant, My radiator came from Napa and it was
made in China!
Old one split longitudinally at the top of the tank, right down the middle about 6-8 "
John
Sucks that you had to pay Napa prices for a chinesse radiator.
