Can anyone tell me where the Automatic choke wire goes? My Haynes manual does not show it, only shows the A/C solenoid. The previous owner had an aftermarket cheapo manual setup in it, I have since removed that and replaced the carb with one that had an automatic choke, yet there was no wiring (I assume it was removed?) in the truck to accommodate this ( the previous carb, you can tell, WAS an Auto-choke).

Is an '83 F100 300-6.

 

The original choke was fed off a black/white that went to the "s" terminal of the alternator.

 

Thank you once again, I will find the terminal and re-add the wire. Do you recall if it was a fused or fused-linked wire?

 

No fuse or fusible link.

 

The Electric choke was fuse linked. 20 gauge fuse link.

 

Well, after the honey do list was over I got to look at the truck. I found a terminal on the alternator that appeared at one time to have a modular plug on it. One of the 2 terminals had a wire with a spade terminal on it, which went into a harness, and to a box located under the starter relay. the box had 'A', 'S', 'F', and 'I' on it. One wasn't used, the other three were. So I took a wire and plugged into the other terminal on the alternator, started the engine, got 14V, so I guess I will use that terminal for the choke unless I got this wrong. Please forgive my ignorance on this, as this is my first delve into the Ford truck arena, after working for years on VW beetles...

 

Here's the alternator wiring if you have the factory ammeter on your dash:



Can you find the documentation for your carb & choke? Factory chokes ran on something
like 7-8 volts, I believe it's only aftermarket ones that can safely accommodate more.
Regardless, the manufacturer's docs would be helpful

BTW that box under the starter solenoid is the voltage regulator, it's part of the charging
system.

 

Why ? This is the way most other chokes are, 12V. I figured that box was a voltage regulator, just was kinda surprised to see it because most alternators are internally regulated, I know most Chevy's, all VW's with alternators in 1974-onward, etc. Thing is, on the alternator, there are 2 terminals on the 'F'. one has a spade terminal hooked to it, the other was empty. I have no other documentation for this truck, it was a $300 beater (actually, aside from the dirtiness of it, is quite straight, just had been sitting for several years.) and trying to figure out what the previous owner butchered in it. it was more than obvious, with the valve train problems it had, and fuel delivery problems, that the PO was VERY inept on engine mechanics. I fixed the valve issue, the fuel tank issue, now working towards wiring and other do-dads in the engine compartment.

 

All the manufacturers used some sort of method for the choke not to work unless the engine was turning. If you didn't, and it was a very cold day, and lets say you cranked and cranked on it for a period of time, or for some reason the key was left in the run position, the choke would have voltage but the engine would not be warming up. So there was a danger you would never get it started because the choke was already pulled off.

Chevy usually used a oil pressure switch in series with the wire going to the choke, and used a full 12v choke coil.

Ford decided to use the stator output from the alternator, which has no voltage unless the alternator is turning. And when it does have voltage, it's something less than 12v. I didn't know it had a fusible link in the choke wire.

 

And all that I can understand, however, like I said, when I started the truck up, I got 14 volts out of that 'F' terminal on the alternator... so now is that not safe to use?

 

You want to use the stator terminal, "S" on the altenator, NOT the regulator for the Choke, if your truck came with factory ammeter gauges.

NOT the field Terminal, "F".

Here is the factory wiring diagram, it shows both, "With Gauges", and "Without Gauges".




The "I" terminal on the regulator, is not used on trucks with ammeter gauges.

And do not confuse the "S" terminal on the regulator for the one on the Altenator. It's not the same wire, for trucks with ammeter gauges.

 

I hooked it up from the alternator terminal, not the regulator, with an inline fuse. Seems to work OK so far..

 

You asked how to hook it up properly like the factory designed it. If you have any problems with the choke element burning out, write back in and let us know. Also make sure the wire you added to the choke never grounds out against anything under the hood. If the "F" terminal on the alternator accidentally touches ground for a second, it blows the regulator out.

 

And that is exactly what I did, just as you said earlier:

"The original choke was fed off a black/white that went to the "s" terminal of the alternator."

My wire is fed straight from that "S" terminal on the alternator, with an inline fuse, straight to the choke element. I seem to have made an error in earlier post, saying "F' instead of "S".. My apology. I can take a pic of it and post it so I can make sure it is the right one?

 

Ah, ok. You had Franklin, and I worried there for a moment.

If it's hooked up to the "S" terminal, it should be fine. The only problem that might happen is the fuse blowing if it's not the right amperage.