Oil choice
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From: Halifx Pa
Oil choice
I have a 1977 F150 300 I6 with 80,161 oroginal miles. This truck was setting a for period of time in Ohio. It is running decent after an oil change, tune up and carb rebuild.
I don't recall but i used a cheap thin oil to get it up and running again, and plan to change to the oil I plan on using permanatly.
I keep it in a garage that is kept at 50 degrees in the winter, and is only going to be a fair weather toy. I am wondering what weight, or brand of dino do you suggest I use.
I know everyone has their favorite brand for their own reasons, and I am not rying to start an argument, but just wanting to know what will work best for my application, to prevent wear, and have a long and worry free ride!
Thanks for your thoughts!
I don't recall but i used a cheap thin oil to get it up and running again, and plan to change to the oil I plan on using permanatly.
I keep it in a garage that is kept at 50 degrees in the winter, and is only going to be a fair weather toy. I am wondering what weight, or brand of dino do you suggest I use.
I know everyone has their favorite brand for their own reasons, and I am not rying to start an argument, but just wanting to know what will work best for my application, to prevent wear, and have a long and worry free ride!
Thanks for your thoughts!
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From: Mattawa Washington.
Lots of good oils for sure but a 20-50 or a staight 30 would be good. I prefer the syn.s like Valvoline full synthetic. But these older engines need zddp. for the flat tappet lifters if it isn't listed on the jug or dosn't say for diesels you will have to add additive such as zddp plus additive.
I have heard shell rotella is excelent and has lots of zddp. so it would be a good choice.
Without the zddp you lose your cam in no time. There has been lots of feedback the last couple of weeks on this very subject, and might be of intrest to you and worth searching. I think mikeylikestit started the thread. Hope this was of value to ya...
I have heard shell rotella is excelent and has lots of zddp. so it would be a good choice.
Without the zddp you lose your cam in no time. There has been lots of feedback the last couple of weeks on this very subject, and might be of intrest to you and worth searching. I think mikeylikestit started the thread. Hope this was of value to ya...
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From: Halifx Pa
Yeah, thanks, I will check that out. I was looking at Walmart and saw they had a 5 gallon bucket of Shell Rotella for $52. I was considering that, and the other day I was at autozone and they had the same thing for $58.99.
The guy at Napa wants to sell me their brand, which he says is Valvoline. I just want to make the best informed choice, and buy the right oil.
The guy at Napa wants to sell me their brand, which he says is Valvoline. I just want to make the best informed choice, and buy the right oil.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Lynnwood, WA
You gotta be kidding. I think it came with 10w40, and there's very little reason to go any heavier unless it burns oil, or the bearings are loose. On the other hand, it makes sense to get an oil that is high on ZDDP, or use an additive for ZDDP boost.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: East Tennessee
Ever thought of Rotella-T Synthetic 5W-40? That's what I've been running in my '86 with 122k miles on it. It still has absolutely zero leaks and has no oil consumption. It's worth the $19 a gallon, imo. Long lasting, good flowing, HDEO.
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From: Mattawa Washington.
Those for a gasoline engine with 80k?!? You gotta be kidding. I think it came with 10w40, and there's very little reason to go any heavier unless it burns oil, or the bearings are loose.
On the other hand, it makes sense to get an oil that is high on ZDDP, or use an additive for ZDDP boost.
You gotta be kidding. I think it came with 10w40, and there's very little reason to go any heavier unless it burns oil, or the bearings are loose. On the other hand, it makes sense to get an oil that is high on ZDDP, or use an additive for ZDDP boost.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Running Springs CA
Since cold starting wont be an issue, any 15W-40 HDEO (diesel/gas fleet oil) would be excellent. My favorite is Chevron Delo 400. Im sure it came with 10W-30 from the factory, but 10W-30 HDEO is still hard to find. I would use straight 30 before 20W-50 in an engine with less than 100,000 miles. 50 just causes hydrodynamic drag on internal parts. 5W-40 would be the choice if cold starting was also an issue.
The reason for using an HDEO over modern passenger car oil is ZDDP, an ingredient necessary to protect older flat tappet cams, but has been greatly reduced in both dino and synthetic "For Gasoline Engines" motor oils to protect cat converters.
Jim
The reason for using an HDEO over modern passenger car oil is ZDDP, an ingredient necessary to protect older flat tappet cams, but has been greatly reduced in both dino and synthetic "For Gasoline Engines" motor oils to protect cat converters.
Jim
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: MD
Unless it is on its last leg, or is a 351M/400 with over 100k on it, I'd never use 20W50 in a dentside.
Unfortunately, we're limited with the new oil formulations.
If you want to use regular motor oil, I'd buy a ZDDP additive along with the motor oil.
The original specs are either 10W30 or straight 30 for most applications.
I use Shell Rotella T 15W40 in the summer, 5W40 in the winter if the engine is healthy. Since yours is the bulletproof 300 with only 80k on it, I'd use 15W40 as we are approaching summer.
Unfortunately, we're limited with the new oil formulations.
If you want to use regular motor oil, I'd buy a ZDDP additive along with the motor oil.
The original specs are either 10W30 or straight 30 for most applications.
I use Shell Rotella T 15W40 in the summer, 5W40 in the winter if the engine is healthy. Since yours is the bulletproof 300 with only 80k on it, I'd use 15W40 as we are approaching summer.
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From: Halifx Pa
Thanks guys, I appreciate the words of wisdom. The 300 is in great shape and does not burn a drop of oil, and I hope to keep it that way.
Any other words of wisdom, I am all ears, and appreciate your thoughts and time!
Any other words of wisdom, I am all ears, and appreciate your thoughts and time!
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: East Tennessee
So, are you completely against a synthetic? The only reason I went synthetic is because Rotella 5W-40 is an excellent price. Better flow, and it's overall a better oil (higher flash point, better cold cranking, better viscosity index) than it's 15W-40 conventional cousin.
http://www.shellusserver.com/product...TSynthetic.pdf
http://www.shellusserver.com/product...aTCI-4CI-4.pdf
The specs are towards the bottom of the pages.
http://www.shellusserver.com/product...TSynthetic.pdf
http://www.shellusserver.com/product...aTCI-4CI-4.pdf
The specs are towards the bottom of the pages.
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From: Halifx Pa
No, I am not against synthetic at all. As a matter of fact I was taking your imput into consideration as you were the only one to suggest synthetic. I see you posted some reading for me to check out and I will read those and give synthetic a far and equal look, and I do thank you for your suggestion.
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From: Halifx Pa
So my next question then is, how long do you run the shell rotell T till you change it? Second question, would that work in my 96 4 cyl, which is about to turn 120,000, and still runs great and does not burn oil.
In the past I ran Havoline 10W40, or 15W40, memory fails me at the moment. I am plannig to go look at some oils tomorrow. It would be nice to run the same oil in both trucks!
In the past I ran Havoline 10W40, or 15W40, memory fails me at the moment. I am plannig to go look at some oils tomorrow. It would be nice to run the same oil in both trucks!
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: MD
It depends on your driving style.
I generally will run 5000 miles or 6 months before changing.
I see no need to run your '96 4cyl on Rotella if it's healthy. If you want to run both on the same oil, find some fleet oil.
I generally will run 5000 miles or 6 months before changing.
I see no need to run your '96 4cyl on Rotella if it's healthy. If you want to run both on the same oil, find some fleet oil.
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From: SW Va
I used the specified 10w-30 (Havoline) in my 78 Zyphers 300 I6, up until I sold it last Spring & it did fine on that in my area of sw Va & still wasn't using any oil between changes, which it got every 6 months, or about 3-4K miles, along with the specified Motorcraft FL-1A filter.
Most mfgr's now specify 5W-30 in place of 10w-30 & it should e ok, IF it says on the container that it's backwards compatable with all prevous "S" grades.
If your concerned about the oil having enough ZDP, maybe consider opting for a rated gas/diesel recipe, that'll have a little higher level of ZDDP, or maybe a "high mileage" recipe, if the seals are weeping oil & need softening up a little.
But if you don't have a high lift cam, or increased valve spring weights, you probably won't have a problem with a quality SM lube, like Havoline, ect.
Most mfgr's now specify 5W-30 in place of 10w-30 & it should e ok, IF it says on the container that it's backwards compatable with all prevous "S" grades.
If your concerned about the oil having enough ZDP, maybe consider opting for a rated gas/diesel recipe, that'll have a little higher level of ZDDP, or maybe a "high mileage" recipe, if the seals are weeping oil & need softening up a little.
But if you don't have a high lift cam, or increased valve spring weights, you probably won't have a problem with a quality SM lube, like Havoline, ect.