Could be...on an F100 with overdrive or maybe in a 1965/72 Galaxie or LTD which also used the 240.

But you will not see anything close to 20 MPG on a two ton truck.

 

Hi Everyone,
I am not sure if this should be another thread or continue.
My gas tank is behind the seat and runs the length of it. There are 2 small vent or overflow tubes on the top edge sticking up that the hoses are cut off of. I don't know if they ran to a missing device like charcoal canister or rollover valve. They now just vent to the cab.

Gary

 

Those tubes were connected to a vent line that ran to a charcoal cannister. As long as you have a vented gas cap they can be plugged off.

 

Thanks Redcat, and We uploaded pics into the Album area today.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...p?albumid=1478

 

Looks solid. Those wheels should be 22.5" rim size. I was hoping it didn't have 20" split rims. You should be able to find a couple wheels fairly easily. Another plus to 22.5's is they are the most common rim size used on medium/heavy trucks and semi trailers. Lots of choices for tires out there.

 

I am really happy with the truck it does seem to be really solid. I plan to use it for pulling a trailer and hauling.

The tires are 8.25 20 s and wheels are 6 lug. I have found some same size wheels with good tires for 150 each, probably the best deal unless I can find a cheap junker truck with usable wheels.

Next project will be the driver side rear inner wheel seal. Does anyone know a good place to find a manual?
Also anyone got any ideas on a finding or building a flatbed?

You guys have been an unbelievable resource, I really appreciate your advice.

Gary

 

Gary you might want to post an ad in the classified forums for a shop manual set. E-Bay and Craigslist also list them time to time. While shop manuals are best you might also be able to find an old Motor or Chilton truck repair manual. Both of these cover multiple makes.

Your wheel seal would actually be a bit easier if you already had the outside tires on but here's a rundown.

1) Jack up the rear of the truck. Be sure to put a jack stand or cribbing lumber under the frame and chock 1 front wheel. Leave the jack under the axle housing with the wheel(s) you're working on about 1" off of the ground.
2) Get something that will hold a quart or so of oil. Old plastic jugs with the top cut off work well for this. Set it under hub.
3) Remove the nuts that hold the axle shaft.
4) Strike the center of the axle flange with a heavy hammer to loosen the centering cones around the studs. These can be stubborn at best so don't be surprised if you've got to beat on it a bit. Be careful not to hit the studs. If you hit one you'll have to get a rethreader die to straighten out the threads.
5) When the axle "pops" oil will run out of the hub. This is where the cut down jug comes in handy.
6) Once the axle is out look into the hub. You'll see the outer bearing nut. Bend the lock tabs up then remove the outer nut, the lock washer and finally the inner nut. Axle nuts require special thin wall 3/4" drive sockets. You may be able to borrow or rent them. Also outfits that sell parts for bigger trucks usually sell them.
7) Next grab the tire and rock it side to side a couple of times. The outer wheel bearing will work it's way out onto the threaded part of the axle tube. Remove the bearing.
8) Now it's time to remove the wheel(s) and hub/drum assembly as a unit. A piece of sheetmetal about 2' x 3' will make things a lot easier at this point. Coat one side of the sheetmetal with some grease and lay it grease side up under the wheel(s). Lower the jack until the tire(s) just start to touch the plate. Grab the tire(s) and slide the assembly off of the axle tube. The greased plate makes sliding a lot easier. Truck shops use a special jack for this job called a dual wheel dolly. Greased sheetmetal is the po' folks method of choice.
9) Next pry the old seal out of the hub. Be as careful as possible not to destroy it. You'll need any numbers that are on it to find a new one since these are likely obsolete to Ford.
10) Clean up time. You can wash the drum/hub out with solvent or if you're lucky enough to have a pressure washer have at it. The brake shoes can also be cleaned with a pressure washer or spray brake cleaner. Do not use any sort of oil based cleaner on the brake shoes. If you use the pressure washer method be sure to blow dry or wipe off all of the machined surfaces when you're done. Put a light coat of oil on the bearings for now.
11) Lean the wheel(s) against the frame with the drum side facing you then set the inner wheel bearing into the hub. Now install the seal. You'll need a seal driver. In a pinch a heavy block of wood will work. You have to hit the seal square to drive it in. Do not use a punch to install the seal as all it will do is destroy the seal.
12) Put a light coat of gear oil on the machined part of the axle tube. Do the same to the lip of the seal.
13) Now slide wheel(s) and hub/drum assembly back onto the axle tube. Be careful not to damage the seal lip on the tube threads.
14) Next fill the cavity between the bearings with gear oil then slide the outer bearing into the hub.
15) Install the inner nut and tighten it until you can no longer turn the wheels by hand. I prefer to to spin the wheels with one hand and snug the nut with other. Now back the nut off one flat.
16) Install the lock ring and outer nut. When you tighten the outer nut do not back it off. Be sure to bend the lock ring tabs. You don't have to bend them all just 2.
17) Clean up the flange and reinstall the axle. Use a bead of RTV sealer to seal the flange.
18) Reinstall the cones and axle nuts.
19) Check the lube level in the housing. Top it off if needed.

 

A shop manual set would be great, or any manual for that matter. I will check the sources you suggested.

The step by step list really helps me. I've never pulled an axle but have done a drum brake set last century feels like it might have 2 centuries ago though.

Thanks Clay.

Gary

 

Ford shop manuals, and etc: faxonautolit.com

1964/72 truck parts catalog lists three different 20" rims for 1966/72 F500's: 20 x 6 / 20 x 6.5 / 20 x 7 // Use with Tube Type tires.

22.5 rims are listed for Tubeless tires.

 

Great information, I haven't had any luck getting it from any other source.

I'm guessing the rims are 7" since the tires are 8.25 x 20, but not sure on the best way to take a tape measure to a rim with the tire on it.

I haven't found an inexpensive source for wheels and it may be easier to find someone selling a truck for scrap.

Thanks for the info Bill.

Gary

 

Look on the wheel around the area of where the valve stem pokes thru for ID numbers, post them here.

One example: 20 x 7 = Ford: C5TA-1007-AL / Firestone: 86960

 

Gary 8.25 x 20's are a pretty rare sight these days. You might have better luck swapping over to 22.5's.

 

You are right. I found a school bus with a pair of 6 lug 22.5" wheels that are probably the correct wheel. I'll see if I can find the wheel identification on them to confirm they will fit. I can get some new Accuride 22.5 delivered at about 195 each.

Gary

 

Thanks again for everyones on going help. We found a newer matched set of 4 replacement rear tires. I've looked alot online, and called our local dealer(absolutely no help there) and not had any luck finding the Lug nut torque specs for proper torque to put these on correctly.

Ours is a 1969 F500

Thanks Again

 

Great job in the step by step posting of a wheel seal removal/installation.Another alternate method of torquing the inner nut is to refer to the Federal Mogul wheel nut torquing proceedure for double nuts.You can probably find it online but it requires a torque wrench.I have done both ways but I tend to gravitate towards the torque wrench proceedure.As far a parts are concerned I would use Automotive Brake Co. in Hackensack,NJ 201.342.0636 I am a mechanic and firefighter and I specialize in archaic equipment. When I needed brakes for my 1970 Scoopmobile not only did they have the part #'s they had them in stock!!!