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timing set

Old Apr 23, 2009 | 06:54 PM
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timing set

I have a 71 302 with the duraspark ignition what should the timing be set at? I had to pull my distributor when I changed my intake gasket which was leaking oil. The truck will start and run however, when I switch it off it sounds like the battery is dead/weak then it will eventually start or I will have to let it set. It also smells like it's not burning all the gas that goes in the carb si I figure I need to adjust the timing.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 09:34 PM
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Hi Jaye!

Well, it depends on whether or not you have any pollution control junk on it for timing. I'd venture to guess a start at 6 degrees before TDC. But, You want to time that with a vacuumm gauge not a light, if you want the right timing.

To do that, hook up the vacuum gauge and set the idle at normal idle RPM. Continue to advance the timing until the highest vacuum you can obtain is reached. Then back off the timing so the vacuum drops 1 inch of vacuum.

Then set your idle mixture using the vacuum gauge. Start at 2 turns out on each screw then slowly in 1/4 turn increments start to close them. During this continue to adjust your idle to the correct rpm. Keep closing the needle screws until the highest vacuum in reached.

Then go back and do the timing again - all the time adjusting the Idle RPM to it's value. You may find the timing on that engine - without any pollution control - to be as high as 10 degrees BTDC. But if you do it with the vacuum gauge, it will be at the right setting no matter what it is.

PS Are you sure you got your distributor back in at the right place?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 08:17 AM
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I'm pretty sure its in correct pressure on the #1 cylinder, timing mark @ TDC then drop it in, I had to bump the starter to get it to drop in so the #1 wire was moved to keep from playing around and getting the rod to the oil pump pulled out. Checked for pressure on the #1 cyclinder again TDC mark the distributor cap where the rotor was pointing for the #1 wire then rewire the rest of the wires.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 08:53 AM
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and, with a small socket taped to an extension, you can turn the oil pump drive shaft to help get the distro to drop in where you want..

I spent a week one sat morning on a che*y before I found out I could have used a big screw driver to do the same (the linkage on the chevy engines is a slot and key on the distro bottom..)

Sam
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 11:49 AM
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Ok.

Ford distributors are really easy to put in a tooth off, and with some engines it seems to matter - don't ask me why?

It seems a little odd that you had to pop the engine to get the distributor to drop in. It should have just twisted right in if you didn't turn the engine with the distributor out.

Oh well - se la vi.....check the timing with the vacuum gauge - it may suprise you.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Julies Cool F1
Ok.

Ford distributors are really easy to put in a tooth off, and with some engines it seems to matter - don't ask me why?

It seems a little odd that you had to pop the engine to get the distributor to drop in. It should have just twisted right in if you didn't turn the engine with the distributor out.

...
the hex drive oil pump shaft is the ticket here.. just enough little stepping..

on my chevy, the residual oil pressure turned the oil pump just a little.. which made getting the distro back in a pita.. (cause I didn't know about the oil pump drive at the time)..

Sam
 
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 07:28 PM
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I finally got it; I set the timing at about 7 degrees BTDC the main problem I was having was the idle which was to high it was only the accelerator cable stuck once that was fixed the timing was a snap. Now it start up & run like a charm
 
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