pulling heads?
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Paola
pulling heads?
Ive been waiting until the weather was nice enough to change the plugs in my truck. Its an '04 with 110,000 miles. Ive heard that the '04's didn't have anti seize on the plugs. I'm going to get the top end cleaned before i do the plug change and take my time doing it. I was wondering if all the plugs dont come out in one piece, how bad would it be as far as cost and work to pull the heads as opposed to buying the ford tool for over $200 and maybe get the pieces of plugs out and then never using the tool again? Also while im at it might as well put in a new set of timing chains.
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
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i know all about this issue on the 4.6l mustang engines so i assume this is the same deal. from all i have read if you cannot get all the parts out and have to do the head removal it wold be 1000-2000 to have it done dealership pricing. the tool will only work if the parts have not dropped down into the chamber
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Kingwood, TEXAS
Its been a while since its come up but I think ball park is $2000ish for pulling heads. You could buy the ford tool 10 times for that price. If you're mechanically inclined and patient it's not that bad (with the right tools).
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Vicksburg, MS
Buy the Lisle #65600 toll kit and go by the lastest TSB. Let them soak at least overnight and you should get most or all out if you are lucky. I went back with the Champion #7989 plug but that is a matter of choice. One piece versus a two piece plug. Also, I changed to Accel #140033 coils. You will at least need to change your coil boots w/ wire assembly.
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From: Paola
I dont mean someone else pulling the heads i mean me pulling the heads. I've pulled apart engines and helped rebuild them so im guessing all ill need is a valve cover gasket and new head gaskets.
Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Edson, Alberta
You will need a lot more then that. There is intake gaskets and head gaskets and valve cover gaskets. I'm not sure about the 5.4 but the 4.2 has special tools to take the fuel lines off the fuel rail. A LOT of little things you have to think of. Then you will have to get the proper torque numbers and pattern for the heads and intake.
If it were me I'd buy the fancy tool and follow the bulletin.
If it were me I'd buy the fancy tool and follow the bulletin.
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Posting Guru
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From: Sunny, Snowy, CO
You have to lift the body to pull the heads also. Don't forget that little step. Or you could jack the engine down a little maybe.
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From: SE Georgia
honestly, I would pull the motor before I even did the heads inside the truck, or pulled the body off
motors are easy to yank...body panels are a huge PITA
btw, do a few searches. I can't link you to the better ones since they're not on this site...but a few exist where people have created their own version of that tool for under $10
btw #2. if you stay with OEM style plugs, buy the PZT1F Motorcraft plugs. Your truck came with PZT2F plugs. But Ford has since changed the specs for the PZT1F plug
motors are easy to yank...body panels are a huge PITA
btw, do a few searches. I can't link you to the better ones since they're not on this site...but a few exist where people have created their own version of that tool for under $10
btw #2. if you stay with OEM style plugs, buy the PZT1F Motorcraft plugs. Your truck came with PZT2F plugs. But Ford has since changed the specs for the PZT1F plug
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From: Vicksburg, MS
I would not recommend pulling the heads. there are a lot thing to consider such as:timing, cam phasers, etc. A helluva lot of trouble for a plug change. I changed mine and broke 7. The only one that came out I let soak for 24 hours. When I got the Lisle tool kit I removed the remaining plugs. Buy the tool then follow the latest TSB. Let them soak overnight though to be safe.
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From: Sunny, Snowy, CO
[quote=tylus;7399435]honestly, I would pull the motor before I even did the heads inside the truck, or pulled the body off
motors are easy to yank...body panels are a huge PITA
When they pulled my engine to replace the one that the crank sheared in, they had the body jacked up about 6" to get the engine out. I don't know if they had to or not, but they did. I got a new truck after that nightmare because they screwed up so much stuff.
motors are easy to yank...body panels are a huge PITA
When they pulled my engine to replace the one that the crank sheared in, they had the body jacked up about 6" to get the engine out. I don't know if they had to or not, but they did. I got a new truck after that nightmare because they screwed up so much stuff.
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