2001 7.3 running rough
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Fayetteville NC
2001 7.3 running rough
I have a 2001 7.3 with very low miles (69,799), The past few days it starts running rough, and the service engine light comes on. I drive it very carefully.Sometimes after a few miles it will clear up and run fine. I've changed the fuel filter, drained any water in the filter assembly, and changed the air filter. The oil has only 3000 miles on it, and I take VERY good care of my prize truck. I have no modifacations on it. I've heard the crank position sensor goes bad on these models. Any ideas on what it could be? I drove it tonight an it happened the whole way home.
Thanks
Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Bloomfield Hills, MI
Theres a recall on the CPS - (camshaft postion sensor) that could be the problem and it will make the truck run rough if it goes bad. Id get it changed out under recall at a stealership that your trust (goodluck lol) how much/what color smoke?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,578
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When the CPS goes bad, it stops working and the truck will just die. They don't cause running rough issues. You need to get a proper code reader and find out what is setting the SES light. Once we know what #'s are coming up we can help you out alot better.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Bloomfield Hills, MI
Good call Nolan
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
When it runs rough, does it feel like the engine is not firing on all cylinders and the whole truck seems to shake? Not too uncommon to see a loose plug on the UVCH. If you have a multi-meter that can read ohms, you can test this yourself. Here's a link to another thread with similar issues that includes the ohm procedure. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ck-shakes.html
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Fayetteville NC
7.3 skipping and shaking.
F350-6
What you describe is exactly how my truck is doing. It will run great, then it starts skipping and shaking and the service engine light will come on, it may run a few monents and run fine, then it will run very rough like it is skipping and the light will stay on. It looks like the driver's side cover will be easy to pull, but the passerger side looks like a bit#$ to pull. Do I have to pull the air conditioning compressor to get the passenger side cover off?
Thanks to everybody for helping out.
What you describe is exactly how my truck is doing. It will run great, then it starts skipping and shaking and the service engine light will come on, it may run a few monents and run fine, then it will run very rough like it is skipping and the light will stay on. It looks like the driver's side cover will be easy to pull, but the passerger side looks like a bit#$ to pull. Do I have to pull the air conditioning compressor to get the passenger side cover off?
Thanks to everybody for helping out.
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Freshman User
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From: Fayetteville NC
What would be a good code reader to buy? It seems to be getting worse.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 28
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From: Fayetteville NC
When it runs rough, does it feel like the engine is not firing on all cylinders and the whole truck seems to shake? Not too uncommon to see a loose plug on the UVCH. If you have a multi-meter that can read ohms, you can test this yourself. Here's a link to another thread with similar issues that includes the ohm procedure. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ck-shakes.html
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
No, you can leave the AC alone. You'll need a short extension and one of those swivel u-joints for the socket. Keep a positive attitude and try not to get intimidated by how bad it looks. After all, the only thing you're doing is removing a few bolts to pull the valve cover. Personally, I think the passenger side is easier since there are fewer things to remove, but I seem to be in the minority on that one.
If you need any pointers on what's involved in removing the valve cover let us know. I guess the big piece of advice is the dipstick tube has a flange that is attached to a stud in the valve cover on the front passenger side. Pay attention here. If the flange holding the dipstick starts to twist when you try and remove that nut, stop there and get a pair of vice grips or something to hold the flange still while you break the nut loose. You don't want to mess up the dipstick by twisting it all up.
If you need any pointers on what's involved in removing the valve cover let us know. I guess the big piece of advice is the dipstick tube has a flange that is attached to a stud in the valve cover on the front passenger side. Pay attention here. If the flange holding the dipstick starts to twist when you try and remove that nut, stop there and get a pair of vice grips or something to hold the flange still while you break the nut loose. You don't want to mess up the dipstick by twisting it all up.
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