Dome light issue
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From: Scenery hill,Pa.
Dome light issue
I just bought a 2002 f350 crew cab. When i purchased it the door ajar light stayed on and so did the dome lights. The lights will go out after driving it a short distance or after 10 minutes of letting it sit after shutting it off. I tried to fix it today. Sprayed it with brake clean then white grease. Took the door panels off and checked my connection. Then i unhooked it all together on the drivers side and it still was on. Now the weird part. I if was to open the passenger door the light goes out and so does the dome light. Same if the drivers is pluged in and pass isnt. with both unhooked the light stays out as it should. Then i found out that iff you open both doors at the time on the front the lights go out. To top it all off the rear doors do nothing at all open or closed. Its almost if the front doors are working in revese of the way it should. Can someone please help me here im stumped right now
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I had the same problem on my 99 when I got it. Not sure what you mean by disconnecting it? do you mean the wire to the switch mounted on the latch mechanism?
If you take the latch out of the door, the switch is mounted to it. It comes off with a 1/4 turn, like a tail light bulb. I did that and then sprayed it with brake cleaner and worked the switch back and forth, hit it with air then more brake cleaner. The plunger won't work real fast because the speed of its travel controls the delay off mode of the light. But with this cleaning mine worked properly. Do both doors. Hope this helps, didn't mean to explain something you already knew.
If you take the latch out of the door, the switch is mounted to it. It comes off with a 1/4 turn, like a tail light bulb. I did that and then sprayed it with brake cleaner and worked the switch back and forth, hit it with air then more brake cleaner. The plunger won't work real fast because the speed of its travel controls the delay off mode of the light. But with this cleaning mine worked properly. Do both doors. Hope this helps, didn't mean to explain something you already knew.
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From: Scenery hill,Pa.
I did do that. That was the first thing i did to it, but i really am curious about is the thing with the rear doors not doing anything. I didn't take off the panels to check them out though. I did disconnect the front doors at the switch, like you asked. It's hard to really do much being that I do not own my own EST to check the GEM, I think that's what Ford calls their body controller. My work's nexiq is a heavy duty version and does not have the Ford software. I talked to a local Ford mechanic, and he has never heard of this issue before. I'm really stumped and for now I'm just leaving it alone.
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Sorry I wasn't more help. My 99 doesn't have the door ajar feature so no switches in the rear doors. Just a thought, check and see if your third brake light /bed lights are working correctly. Mine were working screwy before I fixed the door switches. I took the bulbs out and forgot about replacing them.
As I remember the bed light lit when the brakes applied, and the brake light came on whenever speed went below like 15 mph. I won't be home until next week so I cant check now.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
As I remember the bed light lit when the brakes applied, and the brake light came on whenever speed went below like 15 mph. I won't be home until next week so I cant check now.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
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From: Scenery hill,Pa.
My 3rd brake light is working properly. Im not sure yet on the switchs in the rear doors. I will look sometime this weekend. I makes it so much harder not having the proper equipment to check these issues
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Not being a mechanic I am new to scan tools altogether, but I have had two really good experiences with them recently, Im becoming a believer.
I doubt that scanners for non obd stuff are readilly available except to dealer shops. Don't know. Good luck Im interested to know the outcome.
I doubt that scanners for non obd stuff are readilly available except to dealer shops. Don't know. Good luck Im interested to know the outcome.
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From: Scenery hill,Pa.
If your talking about non obd2 thats flash file stuff from the early 90s. All super dutys use obd2 stuff. scanners can do alot of stuff. Change parameters, check codes, perform cly cutout tests, check the buzzing of the inj coils. They are a great tool. I wish they where not 3000$ or i would have one
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From: Scenery hill,Pa.
Well good to say i finally found the issue. Upon further inspection and removal of the latch, i verifed the proper operation of the switch itself. Used my multimeter and flat terminal connectors to verify the switch had the proper spec for resistence. All checked out good with that. I then installed the switch and used my meter to find that when the latch was closed it was turning on the lights. Same on both sides too. Looked at the latch that hooks to the striker itself and saw some visible wear on it. The switch was also a little loose too. I even tried scraping at the latch and even grinding a little off the switch too and had no luck. So now i have to buy 2 latchs which im sure will be at least 100 a piece. But im 100% sure this is my issue
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If your talking about non obd2 thats flash file stuff from the early 90s. All super dutys use obd2 stuff. scanners can do alot of stuff. Change parameters, check codes, perform cly cutout tests, check the buzzing of the inj coils. They are a great tool. I wish they where not 3000$ or i would have one
Anyway I would try to junk yard latches. Here in Washington I have noticed lately that there a lot more SD's in the yards, and they seem more willing to let a person pick off of them. It may be different on the east coast though.
Glad you found the problem.
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From: Scenery hill,Pa.
Actually i called every junk yard around here today and no one here has any. Actually i have only ever seen 1 SD in the junk yard yet over here. So i guess i be paying a arm and a leg to fix the problem