Ok - I felt inspired by SteveVFX4's Platinum photo thread, so here goes.. some pictures of my week old FX4!

Here's my truck on the lot the day I bought it. In fact this is the cell phone picture I sent to the wife to let her know that I was going to sign on the dotted line ...


The first thing I did was take the dealer's advertising plate off the front of the truck and replace it with something more appropriate ....


Here's the truck parked outside my garage with the Husky Mud Guards installed.


Here's a shot of the interior with the black sport leather trimmed captain's chairs. Power adjust for the driver side seat.


The dash - anyone have any idea which has more buttons on the dash, my truck or the original Apollo command module?


For those thinking about mud flaps - shots of the Husky Mud Guards front and rear ...

 

So my grandfather used to own a Ford dealership back in the day. He also ran tow trucks out of his service shop, and one of the items he gave me was a set of booster cables from one of his service trucks. These are 4 gauge wire and come as two pieces: one piece is a 30" section of cable that connects to the battery terminals on one end, and has a quick connect fitting on the other end - the second piece is a 30' (yes foot) length of cable with clamps on one end and a quick disconnect fitting on the other end.

The next few pictures are my test fit-up of this system on my truck.

Here is the first picture looking into the lower grille section, you can see where the quick disconnect is accessible, but subtly hidden. I put it in this location so that I could get to it without having to pop the hood, and there was already a convenient tab that I could mount the connector to...


Here is a view looking down behind the front bumper that shows the tab I used for mounting - the tab already had a hole in it, and I ran a 5/16"-18 tap through to put some threads in it ...


Here is a shot of how I routed the cables across the front of the truck. I'm not thrilled with running the cables right along the edge of the radiator mounts, but this was the only way to make the cables reach all of the way to the battery.


Here is a shot looking from the battery toward the back side of the radiator. You can see where the cables come through and rest against part of the composite radiator mount.


I haven't attached the cables to the battery yet, as I am not sure I am satisfied with the current setup. I started out the project by mounting the connector to the existing tab in the lower opening and that led to the current cable routing. I really don't like the cable being routed the way it is due to the proximity to the radiator and the tight corner the cables need to turn at the top of the radiator.

I will probably fabricate a small bracket so that I can mount the connector in the passenger side of the lower opening - this will free up some additional length on the cables and allow me to find an alternate cable routing behind the passenger side headlight. More pictures and an update when I get the chance to change that!!!

 

BTW - If you are interested in a set of cables like this, get ready to open your wallet. The cheapest set I could find online is $150 - you can search for booster cable system at NorthernTool to find a set.

 

THarbold,

Your pictures are not showing, so I went to you profile album.

I like the husky mud flaps and wished I had some. I keep having to get out my truck onto running boards that are full of mud from the tires. Did you install them or dealer?

 

Hmm ... I'll have to see if I can figure out the picture thing

I installed the mud flaps myself. They were a pretty straight forward install, with one exception ... the instructions say to use a 1/8" drill bit for the mounting holes. I couldn't get the supplied screws to run through the 1/8" holes - they repeated stripped a few threads off of the end of the screw instead of drawing the screw through the fender. I ended up switching to a 9/64" bit. Even with the larger hole, I still had to put some weight behind it to get the supplied screws to draw into the fender. Once I figured this out, the install went pretty smoothly. The only tool required was a cordless drill and the appropriate bits.