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Heading back to school 150 miles into my drive and the spark plug blew out, i noticed that the tick was getting louder inside the cab and thought nothing of it, finally blew out with the cop and broke it. drove it to the nearest exit and parked it in a wal mart.
should i just be able to get a new sparkplug and cop and bolt them back in or should i get the hole checked out to see if the threads are still straight? anyone else have any experience with this i know it's a common problem.
If you're really really lucky and I do mean really really (did I say really lucky yet?) Your plug just vibrated loose, if not you won't have any threads left. Buy a plug and a C.O.P. but if you can't thread the plug in leave the hole open until you get an insert installed.
Will it harm my motor having nothing in the spark plug hole? As of now I have the injector unplugged that goes to it and the spark plug and cop removed.
How can i go about getting a thread insert installed? With my luck the threads are shot.
Is the thread insert called Helicoil? It seems it would be a total pita to get that down in there. I'm trying to do this in a wal-mart parking lot being I'm 2 hours from home.
Well I ended up driving it about 20-30 miles on the highway not going over 60 but like i said i had the injector unplugged so it was spitting gas out. I haven't checked to see if threads remain but i'm pree sure they don't. My spark plug the last couple threads are screwed up and there is no gap between the electrode and the other part of the spark plug.
I was looking at the heli-coil and time-sert. My parents work at ford though and i won't need all the tools but if i do i know where to find it. Problem, it's a pain in the *** to get to, it's the #7 cylinder, so getting tools in there to tap the hole will be difficult if near impossible.
Anyone on here ever take their cylinder heads off? I read online that the way the dealer does it is lift the cab off...kinda can't do that. How much would you estimate a shop to repair the hole, not replace the head?
Really, that doesn't sound bad at all considering the kit is 300, at least that's what i read online but since my parents can get me the reamers, the cutters, and the taps to do it they are almost going to insist that i do it myself.
There is no need to remove the cab or head to fix it. I have seen twice already someboy I know do #4 fairly easy. The hard part is getting all the shavings out.
There is no need to remove the cab or head to fix it. I have seen twice already someboy I know do #4 fairly easy. The hard part is getting all the shavings out.
Don't ask me where I read it but I remember reading a post that suggested filling the cylinder with shaving cream. It catches the metal shavings and when the repair is made you start the engine with the plug left out. Supposed to throw the metal shavings out the plug hole.
Of course getting the shaving cream down there could be a challenge in itself.
I wasn't going through all the bs to remove the cab but I thought removing the head would be the best thing for it to make sure no shavings got down there. I never heard of shaving cream, my brother said to fill the cylinder with oil then suck all the oil out or let them fall in then with a large vacuum reduce the hose small enough to fit and wiggle down there to get it all out.
So the easiest way is to use the kit, while it's inside the vehicle. Removing the fuel rail, air box and everything that can get in the way of the hole to just gain access then get to work.
Im sure that if you got the majority of the shavings out with a vaccum, then starting it should blow out the few remaining pieces. When you drill it out it makes pretty decent sized pieces, so its not like there is a ton of small shavings. I cant imagine 1 or 2 pieces ruining anything.
Alright, I didn't think it would harm it too much if I got most of it out. When tapping the hole I was going to put some oil or grease on the tap to catch some of the shavings.