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So I bought this 1963 f100 a few weeks ago and the heater worked fine. A few days later it stopped blowing. I assumed it was the blower motor, which is the same all the way through 79. However, the 63 blower motor supposedly spins the opposite direction, so the guy at autozone said all I had to do was reverse the wires, positive to negative and negative to positive. So I spent about 5 hours of trial and error involving taking the entire heater assembly out and playing mechanic and I just finished replacing everything only to discover that my heater still doesn't work.
What's next to check? Are there only the 2 wires involved that hook to the top of the box or should there be another?
Fuse? I didnt see a heater fuse on the box but its possible right?
Anything else? Keep in mind I have no idea what I am doing with this heater crap. I just really want to get that fixed. Now I feel like I just wasted $33 at autozone on the stupid motor but I don't want to have to do it all again.
First things first, turn it on with ignition on and check for power at the connection to the heater. If no power you probably have a bad fuse or bad connection at the fuse box. Hope this helps
Ya gots to love them dummys at parts counters. ROTHFLMAO
Every tool box needs a circuit tester. I like one that looks like a screwdriver, with an ice pick point, light bulb in handle, and a 2 ft ground wire with alligator clip out of the rear of the handle. Connect the clip to something on the vehicle and anything hot will light the bulb in the handle.
thanks for the help. I have a circuit tester....somewhere. I will try it and get back to you guys with the results. I've never been much of an electrician but I probably should have thought of this already.
So I bought this 1963 f100 a few weeks ago and the heater worked fine. A few days later it stopped blowing.
I assumed it was the blower motor, which is the same all the way through 79. That's BS...where did you get that info?
However, the 63 blower motor supposedly spins the opposite direction, so the guy at autozone said all I had to do was reverse the wires, positive to negative and negative to positive. So I spent about 5 hours of trial and error involving taking the entire heater assembly out and playing mechanic and I just finished replacing everything only to discover that my heater still doesn't work.
The blower motor is NOT the same thru 1979.
1961/64 is the same, but it's not the same as 1965/72. 1973/79 is different again.
If the truck has A/C, the blower motor is not the same as with a heater only.
Bottom Line: There are EIGHT different blower motors used 1961/79.
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It could be a bad blower switch. How many different switches are there?
1961/64 is the same, but it's not the same as: 1965/66, 1967/72, 1973/79.
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It could be a bad blower motor resistor. How many different ones are there?
1961/64 is the same, but it's not the same as: 1965/67, 1968/72, or 1973/79.
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The wiring on these trucks wasn't very good to begin with and it wasn't designed to last 40 years.
Corrosion and other factors (like rodents), not to mention previous owners messing with it...can cause all sorts of problems.
Throwing parts at the problem doesn't do anything except empty your wallet.
Question for ND. does the 63 even have a fuse box like the 65 and 66's. my 64 4WD doesn't so was wondering where the fuse would be located. Dutch
If the fuse panel is not located on the firewall, it's located on the headlamp switch. No kidding.
The headlamp switch has 4 or 5 spade connectors, the hard plastic fuse panel plugs into those connectors.
From what I can see in the parts catalog pic, there are 5 different fuses.
Three are mounted in a row (top to bottom, or side to side...depending how you look at 'em). One is 7.5 amps and is shorter then the other two, which are the same length and are 14 amps.
A 15 amp fuse in mounted 180 degrees from the three above, a short 1 amp fuse is next to it.
The pic in the catalog shows that the panel is marked with the fuse part numbers (which dictate the length & amps), but I've seen these panels without markings.
REMOVE a battery cable for safety's sake before you stick your mitt under the dash.
The wiring is fragile enough after 40 years, and it could short out and burn up...if you accidently cross two wires...and you could get a dandy shock.
whats different about the motor? I pulled it out and replaced it and it is an exact fit. Still doesnt work, but I suspect that power isnt getting to it.
If I need to take the motor back, please tell me. I have a limited time to do so.
Check for power that should tell you whether to take it back or not. or you can run straight power to your old one from your battery and see if it spins. If it worked before it's probably a power issue, but start there.
Well it's been a while since I've had mine out but if you ground the outside of the fan motor and hit one of the wires going in it should turn. if it sparks it's a ground wire but I think there are two wires going in and one should be High and one should be low.
so basically, to test it I just hook the wires straight to the battery? Thats all there is to it?
There are many easier methods of testing but yes, hold the motor itself tightly to the - battery post and touch the wire to the +, if the motor is working it will spin over. If it has a black wire don't use it as black is usually ground for automotive use.