I gotta find another set of rims for my truck so i can rum the military surplus tires. Going to get a set of 42 inch for running around so i don't destroy my boggers. I found a guy south of Atlanta that sells a set for $500 with 80% tread. To run the tire i need 20x10 rims. I have found two sets and need pros and cons of each. Truck is 74 250 with a 2004 model Dana 60 front, and Ford Sterling 10.5 rear.

Set one.
Eagle Alloy Wheels

Set Two.
Hotwheels? Custom Rims by KMC

I do not know if the KMC wheels are cast or steel.

 

Going for function or look?

If function there are a couple good double beadlock, split 2 peice wheels on the market.

 

I prefer function, but don't want to spend a grand on wheels. Which brand/models would you recommend?

 

Take a look at these guys wheels;
Stazworks rims page!

If I'd of had a little more money to spend last year when I was shopping I would have bought a set of these. (next set of tires)As far as I can find there the best functioning wheels out there for an off-road rig, they look cool, and come in your size. You will never again pay for a tire mount. Check out the cold role ring

Also I HIGHLY recommend a product called dynabeads from these guys;
Tire Balancing Products
I am not now and will NEVER again use wheel weights for balance.

 

Thanks for the link, sent the Stazworks an email to check on price.

 

Just got a message back from Stazworks, $380 to $420 a wheel. Very nice wheels but out of my price range.

 

yes, yes not cheap, that's what held me back. but if ya could huh?

 

I'd say check out USWHEEL.com good guys and you can get any backspacing. But with 20x10 might be a bit on the old pocket book.

 

You are planing on running a 20" wheel with a late model D60 and unit bearings? How much lift are you running to clear this tire size, and how much did you spend on the knuckle required for proper steering geometry?
Did you spend all of your cash on steering corrections as well as decent bearings? This would have been about a three thousand dollar upgrade. (I know because I have upgraded my super duty)
Why run the metric bolt pattern, and why run the hub centric wheel? You have limited your options greatly?

Have any pics of your new spring hangers? I am interested to see how the wider spring perches were accomodated.
What did you do for steering?

 

New spring hangers are still in the works.., as well as the hydroboost. Been busy with school and work so I have not had time for hands on lately. To answer most of your questions the answer is nothing.
- I have only found one knuckle replacement kit for a high steer set up, which is over a grand.
-Educate me on the bearings please.
-As far as the wheels, i has found a good deal but passed it up, so the drawing table is open. With the 20's and the military tires was going to be the cheapest way to keep my boggers in shop and have another set of run around tires.
-I thought the hub centric did not come untill after 2004, while the 2004 and earlier where still lug centric
-The truck is metric at the axle and has a spacer/conversion to 8x6.5

 

Using wheel spacers huh????

The SD unit bearings are a non adjustable non serviceable design that does not do well with large heavy tires.
My data shows that all SD axles are hub centric. This was true of all axle configurations, including the D50.
You have noticed the cost of the steering knuckle, and a kit that upgrades the wheel bearings runs another 1700 bucks.
This is a pretty exensive axle to build.

 

Stand by for a thread hijack,

75F350, you seam to really know your stuff about wheelin fullsize rigs. And those reading this night have some ideas and intrest. My brother just bought a SD and I'm going to end up working on it. That said I am concerned about the unit bearings (we already did one) and metric wheels.

The axles are still at there root a D60 and a 10.25/10.50. Up front is it possable to change the knuckles to the 92-97 knuckles? That I guess would just come down to weither the ball joints are the same. And in the back it shouldn't it be possible to change just the axle? This however needs a solution to retain the disk brakes with the 8-6.5 pattern. Any ideas or knowledge that can help.

Hijack over I now return you to your normal thread already in progress.

EDIT, After writing this it just starts to appear simpler to swap out the entire axles to the earlier setup, and thus might as well use a kingpin D60.

 

Ah ha! Now we are using our heads here. Unit bearings have kind of been taboo, and are not quite very desirable. Now some aftermarket companies have used the F450 stuff in smaller hybrid axles, and have been successful, but these are smaller lighter vehicles, that see as much trailer time as trail time. Larger heavy street driven vehicles tend to tear up the unit bearings and since they are not servicable makes them less than desireable.
Now, can an earlier knuckle and outer assembly be used on the later model, axle? Yes and no. Was afraid I was gonna say that huh?
Well the axle dimensions are slightly different, and even the overall width is not the same. Since the ball joints are similar, the knuckle can be installed with monor modification. Actually it is easier to install the latest bulletproof rebuildable unit for the dodge. Little machine work required.
Anyway, this leaves us with a slightly different outer knuckle offset and this means that the outer stub does not work, so the length will have to be changed. Difficult to add length to the stub, and just as impossible to shorten it since the stud is tappered. It wont accept new splines, so 35 spline stubs will have to be used. This is where the things gets crazy expensive. After all of this machine work, you are right at the dollar range where the kit starts to look real good. I mean the Dynatrac kit is awesome. Expensive as all get out but awesome none the less. It already has the correct bearings, new spindles, 35 spline axles, as well as the 35 sline lockouts. New hubs that are also 35 spline. This solves the troublesome ESOF problem, and gets rid of the unit bearings.

I am not sure if the huns are available with a pattern of 8 x 6.5, but I would imagine that it could be found. ONly thing that could stand in the way would be the rotor availability. If the offset is different it could be a problem, but I am sure that is easy to fix.


Changing the rear hub from an earlier 10.25 might be an option, I am not sure. I have yet to deal with the sterling axle, as I am a 14B FF kind of guy.
Interesting concept though. I might have to open some books to see of the bearings are the same, or if there is even enough material to machine the hub for a lrger bearing if it is not.

 

Good stuff here 75F350, thanks. I'm sure we won't be doing this work any time soon but research saves a lot of hassle and expense.

And I to am a big fan of the Big 14Bolt, in my book it has all the best parts of all the light truck axles, big but managable and easy to repair even trailside with the removable pinion housing and screw type carrier adjusters. Not to mention the third pinion bearing, just awsome. If I had any axle choices for my rig it would be a 14B rear and kingpin D60 front. I got the front, but the rear will have to wait until I break my 10.25 and I don't see that happening any time soon.

Ya know maybe a 14B is worth doing before I do a rear locker. Have you done this? I put one in my Jeep truck a while back, but haven't in a Ford yet. Can't imagine any big problems, custom shock and spring mounts off course but the widths are pretty close. Is there anything you know that I should in thinking about this?

Oh ya and in thinking about widths I know this is the 73-79 forum and your all about those years, mines a 87. But I've asked elsewhere and not gotten any good answers. It seems my front axle is quite a bit, 2-3 inches wider then my rear. Is this normal or does my truck have something going on? Just curious that thought came back into my head in thinking about putting in a 14B.

I just started a thread on this here; https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7370568

 

You have hit all of the key components that make the 14B so desireable. I have upgraded rear 60's to 35 spline, and run D70 rears. I have busted shafts and just about everything in a dana. Too much to list, but those darn 14B's take a beating. Cant seem to break a stock shaft. Same trucks. Go figure.

Anyway, it is easy to install the 14B in any vehicle, and you have the skills to pull it off. You are already aware of all of the requirements, and as long as you are upgrading, you might just want to change the yoke, and ditch the stock strap style u-joint hardware, and upgrade to the u-bolt style. Good time to upgrade your front wheel studs, so that they will match the rear. If you install a 14B FF in the back your new wheel studs willl be 9/16". Thats beef, and you will need new lug nuts anyway, so upgrade the front while you are at it.
Disc brake conversions are cheap for this axle, and it is a win win situation.
Unfortunately many of the "true blue" guys grit their teeth and raise their fists in the ar when this is suggested, but I install what works. I will run something that will get me where I want to be, and return home. The 14B just asks for more, where the danas have let me down.

I will check you out in your other thread, so we dont run a way with this one.