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Dave Franklin, the other day, brought up this issue with stalling relating to carb icing and this has happened to me. I don't have an enclosed air filter system like the factory original that can draw heat from the exhaust manifold. So after having a pot of java this morning and pondering, is there a system out in the auto hinterlands that can force warm air into the carb from just outside the filter??? My thinking was a curved plate with a port in it that would set against the filter and wrap a quarter of the way around the filter. The port would be plumbed to a 12 volt 'hair dryer like' apperatious in the engine compartment, with a switch in the cab to turn it on and off. Then you would have warm air on demand in the winter months if you needed it.
Something like this probably exists, but I haven't ever seen it...but that's not saying much either.
Redneck, I am certified clueless on this one. Because it's not that great of an issue for the entire year. I find it happening when the weather is cold and especially damp. Kind of like when black ice forms on overpasses and bridges, but not on the rest of the road surfaces (sort of like freezing fog conditions). But, it could be as simple as a little heater core tapping into the line that feeds the truck cab heater core contained in a little box with a duct that runs to the outside of the filter. A cubic foot of air doesn't sound like much but 600 of them in 60 seconds through a 600 cfm carb should suck some heat. Enough coffee for one day, is it 5 oclock yet?
my chevette had an icing problem.i ran the duct from the air cleaner to the firewall,and routed it into the passenger cabin.it worked great getting warm air from the heated cab. now the down fall, #1-EXTREMELY LOUD IN CAB #2-CAB ALWAYS SMELLED OF GAS. but otherwise worked great.
The simple solution would be to use a stock air filter assembly and just get the hose to draw air near the exhaust manifold. I had one that I put a double snorkle on for CAI and ran only one of the heated portion to the manifold. Most of the stock ones are set for 100 deg. but some are adjustable. I had mine set for 60deg. If vacuum operated you can rig a bypass for warm weather. Some of the TBs from the EFI systems have a coolant circuit in them that could be fabbed up too.
JC Whitney used to sell electric 12v heaters/defrosters for car interiors.
regards
rikard
The stock system works very well, and you can take it off in the summer if you want to run a open chrome aircleaner. I have had headers, and have made my own little box around one of the header tubes to hook the hose from the aircleaner to. The vacuum sensor that controls the flapper door in the snorkel works very well, and will actually modulate the door to keep the temperature even.
People who want to hot rod their truck and get rid of all the extra junk may laugh at wanting to hook this stuff up, but if you actually use your truck in the winter, and depend on it to run well when it's bad outside, it's so nice to have a engine that will run smoothly during bad weather.
Thanks Guys,
Your advise actually is more of a simple process then what I made it out to be. My truck came with the chrome top and bottom with the air cleaner inbetween. Yet, a simple trip to the j-yard can fix that winter problem quick. My pop always says "Work smarter, not harder." But, he is also from the school of hard knocks, so I usually have to take the long way around the block before it dawns on me what he is talking about!
Thanks again,
LNF150