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1987 351W emission issues

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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 07:59 AM
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1987 351W emission issues

I have an 87 F-250 351W The air pump and most of the emissions were removed from the truck I am trying to get it running again,my question is can I remove the rest of the emissions (EGR valve ect ) or do I have to reinstall all of the apperatus to make it work right.I think the previous owner removed the emissions for the tuned exahust that he put on it.The motor sounds good but does'nt idle well. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Dave
 
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 08:15 AM
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You should be OK as is. Make sure the plugs are good and properly gapped. Check plugs wires and make sure they are good. Check all the vacuum pipes for cracking along with the crankcase vent tubes. You could also check for vacuum leaks around throttle body. You may also need to clean the Idle Air Control valve. Go to fordfuelinjection.com for instructions on how to do this. While there you could read up on how to pull any stored error codes without a code reader.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 08:54 AM
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Thanks Lazy K I will check that site out,the vacuum system is a mess and needs to be cleaned up I found the vacuum advance from the distributor just dead ended after 8 feet of tubing.Some people just should'nt work on vehicles LOL Thanks again
 
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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87 351w in a F-250 should be a 4180 holley 4bbl, not EFI. Emission hose routing is complicated but should be shown on the underhood sticker. If you dont have Emiss. testing where you live, it should be fairly straight forward removal, then re-tuning after all the garbage is gone.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Old93junk
87 351w in a F-250 should be a 4180 holley 4bbl, not EFI. Emission hose routing is complicated but should be shown on the underhood sticker. If you dont have Emiss. testing where you live, it should be fairly straight forward removal, then re-tuning after all the garbage is gone.
Oops! Then disregard EFI stuff. Then still check plugs and wires, check for vacuum leaks, check ignition timing and check carb float level is correct. Pull vacuum pipe off EGR valve and plug pipe (if connected at all).
 
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 11:46 AM
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From: McKenzie River
Originally Posted by Lazy K
Oops! Then disregard EFI stuff. Then still check plugs and wires, check for vacuum leaks, check ignition timing and check carb float level is correct. Pull vacuum pipe off EGR valve and plug pipe (if connected at all).
Lots of folks make that mistake, 351w and 460 both carbed still in 87.................But I love Holley 4bbls!
 
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Old93junk
Lots of folks make that mistake, 351w and 460 both carbed still in 87.................But I love Holley 4bbls!
Yes but isn`t the computerized crap so much more fun?
 
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 11:58 AM
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From: McKenzie River
Originally Posted by Lazy K
Yes but isn`t the computerized crap so much more fun?
Fun?.........I have some words to describe it, but most are unprintable on FTE......Fun is NOT among them! hahaha!
 
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 12:02 PM
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I'm getting mixed reviews about the EGR valve some say plug it' and others say remove and cap it off???Thanks old93junk yes it does have a holly 4180 just rebuilt it came out sweet. I just need to fix the vacuum issues and will be rollin again...
 
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 12:08 PM
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From: McKenzie River
I would remove and cap off the EGR, it just looks cleaner than a dead EGR. I fabbed a few block off plates out of 1/4 alum. plate and drilled mounting holes accordingly with a piece of high temp gasket behind it...........................Or you can just leave it sit.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 01:51 PM
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Thanks I was kind of leaning towards plating it off just for that reason,but if it is a little open can't the two gases still mix and hamper performance like rough idle ect...
 
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 01:53 PM
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From: McKenzie River
Nope, just cap or disable, it will be fine.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 04:27 PM
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Just cut a stainless shim to cover both holes where the actual EGR valve bolts to the neck of the spacer.

You need the PCV port on the front and likely the other manifold vacuum port as well.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 08:39 AM
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I removed the carb plate and purchased a new one without the EGR stuff on it.( 40 dollars)The motor started right up,but under load she pops and hesitates I am suspecting the accelorator pump is bad,after all the truck has been sitting for two plus years Should I just replace the carb or keep with this one?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 09:12 AM
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It is too lean because the EGR is no longer injecting inert gas into the intake stream.

There is little to adjust on the 4180 -emissions- carb, (it was purpose built to work in concert with the EGR and other emissions features of your specific vehicle) but you should try and richen the mixture to tune it.
 
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