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As Dave pointed out, these trucks don't have a dual mass flywheel. I'd go for the handshaker. I've got over 286k miles (including heavy tows) on the stock tranny without a rebuild. See how many 4R100 guys can say that.
Yes most change to the WW and delete the AIH, but you're talking about $100 to delete and swap a wheel versus lots of money to change the smaller intake plenums, turbo, pedestal, HPOP, etc. that come on the eary 99. I'm pretty sure Ford did make a non SD 250 in 99, but it looked like a 98 150.
If you're wife likes the truck, she'll learn to drive the stick.
Seems like a quick 2 min.visual to determine which one.
You mentioned the ww,aih, as differences ,don't most change to the ww, and delete the aih?
Wouldn't a non radiator trans cooler be better?
also , did ford make a f250 non super duty in 99 ?
Yes, most change to the WW and delete the AIH. The WW decreases turbo surge by decreasing airflow, but it works.
A non-trans cooler may be better, but the stock one is puny and not effective. The early bird hand shakers apparently use an oil to water trans cooler in the rad like the late model autos do.
Yes Ford made an F250LD, but I believe it was only a 97/98 model year. It looks like the F150 from the same vintage and wasn't 1/2 the truck an SD is.
Can the "early" or "late" be determnined by the date on the manufacturer's plate under the front driver door? Is there a month in particular when the 'early' became 'late' in 1999? I'm also looking at getting a USED SD: 1999 F350 7.3L diesel w/20k miles on it. THe (potential) issue, which is why I want it, is it has a 16" lift and 44" tires and Detroit Locker in the rear/Air locker in front. ANything special I should be looking for? Is this gonna suck for a 10 mile/day daily driver? I'm just getting into the SD's, and appreciate all the help already given here. Thx!
If you ever planning on serious towing go with the 4R100 auto. Several times I've been in work zones with stop and go traffic while going up steep grades which would've resulted in much wear and tear on a manual clutch.
...The WW decreases turbo surge by decreasing airflow, but it works...
Turbo surging means that if you apply too much load to the engine the turbo can't maintain the required airflow at that load condition because the compressor wheel stalls. To cure this problem you need to provide the required airflow that the engine is demanding not less airflow!
The compressor wheel blade geometry used in the stock turbo is the problem because the stock blade geometry stalls and can't provide the required airflow for a given engine load and you wind up getting compressor stall and no airflow at all.
The WW address this issue by using a different compressor wheel blade geometry which doesn't stall under these load conditions so that the turbo can maintain the required airflow that the engine is demanding whereas the stock wheel stalls and provides no airflow at all under these conditions.
It's true that for light engine loads the stock wheel provides more airflow than a WW because that's why Ford changed from the WW in the early 99 trucks which failed to meet the EPA city driving loop test for NOx to the 99.5 wheel.
I was thinking about the difference in price to spend on mods?
I live 10 miles from select in Warrenton... are you close or looking in a general region? If you want, I can go up there and look at it or I can tag along with you.... where are you from? Sorry i didn't answer a single bit of your question but i didn't realize someone was so local lol
I live 10 miles from select in Warrenton... are you close or looking in a general region? If you want, I can go up there and look at it or I can tag along with you.... where are you from? Sorry i didn't answer a single bit of your question but i didn't realize someone was so local lol
I have to agree with Gene. Go with the auto unless you just love a manual. I pull with mine a lot and havent touched the tranny in 185k miles. I have been in a lot more situations where I have been happy to have my auto then wish I had my 99 6spd back.
The only times I wish I had a manual are when I am out in the sticks and when I am really heavy and about to crest a hill. Sometimes the auto will grab another gear just as I am about to top out the hill. With a manual I would have just let it lug a little rather than grabbing another gear.
Can the "early" or "late" be determnined by the date on the manufacturer's plate under the front driver door? Is there a month in particular when the 'early' became 'late' in 1999? I'm also looking at getting a USED SD: 1999 F350 7.3L diesel w/20k miles on it. THe (potential) issue, which is why I want it, is it has a 16" lift and 44" tires and Detroit Locker in the rear/Air locker in front. ANything special I should be looking for? Is this gonna suck for a 10 mile/day daily driver? I'm just getting into the SD's, and appreciate all the help already given here. Thx!
...The only times I wish I had a manual are when I am out in the sticks and when I am really heavy and about to crest a hill. Sometimes the auto will grab another gear just as I am about to top out the hill. With a manual I would have just let it lug a little rather than grabbing another gear...
I got a special DP tune that basically let me shift my auto like a manual by using the gear lever and the OD button. When towing it's never good to let the tyranny shift on it's own while under a heavy load. It's better to let off the throttle to unload the driveline and execute all up and down shifts manually and then carefully reapply the throttle.
Hmmm wat was this tune called Ernest? and what tow tune was it
It's a one of a kind "shifting tune" that Jody did for me by messing with the shifting tables. I got both a standard 40 tow and 60 tow and special versions of the 40 tow and 60 tow with my "shifting tune". Since my "shifting tune" is only appropriate for manual shifting I got the standard versions to let the tranny shift automatically when running empty.
Almost nothing is selling for book value right now, so don't lean on that too heavily. Here's a comprehensive list of the early/late differences:
Early 99 has a wicked wheel in it from the factory.
The early99 has 120cc(AB code) injectors and the late99-03 has 140cc(AD code) injectors.
The early99 has 2" intake runners. The late99-03 has 3" intake runners.
The early99 has a 15* swash plate HPOP. The late99-03 has a 17* swash plate HPOP.
The early99 has one glow plug relay. The late99-03 has one glow plug relay and one air intake heater relay side by side. Both relays are on the passenger side valve cover toward the front of the truck.
The early99 has a totally different air filter that is not inter changeable with the late99-03. But you can put the late99 air cleaner assembly in the early99 truck. The only two aftermarket air filters that work on the early99 are the AFE stage 2 and the AIS.
The early99 track rod has smaller mounting bolts than the late99-03.
The early99 has shallower rotors than the late99-03.
The early99 has shorter hub-bearings than the late99-03.
The early99 front axle U bolts are square where they go over the spring pack. The late99 U bolts are round.
The early99 has a different pitman arm than the late99-03.
The early99 does not have the AIH like the late99-03.
The early99 does not have the automatic transmission fluid cooler in the radiator.
The early99 has no indicator light showing that "cruise" is on. Late99-03 has a cruise light that will come on when you set the cruise control. The early99 truck has the light in the dash already. A newer PCM(Yes it will plug in and will run better too) must be used to make the cruise light illuminate. It is a green light on the right side edge, half way up.
Either is a good truck, but the late models are a better starting point. Early birds require more $$$ to do the same stuff as the later models.
Can you buy the parts for the later 99 and basically convert an early 99 to a later model?
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