I was working on my starter and at one point when I was starting it, I hit the start button but had not turn the ignition key on. The truck started but then died. Does this mean it is wired wrong or the switch is bad? Could this cause problems with the starter? Question to dark siders, I have a 350 in my 53. The starter is making a horible noise when starting. Mostly this happens after the truck has been driven for awhile. This problem when away the first time for awhile after I put a ground wire from the block to the frame but has came back. I am starting to think maybe there is an issue with the fly wheel.

 

Well, I can help with the first point. Your coil is a giant capacitor. That means it will store enough "juice" to fire off the plugs a couple of times then run out. It will also store enough juice to knock you on your rear if you touch it (even with the ignition off). So, I think just from what you described, you're ok - it will do that.

A word of caution: That also means your starter button is wired hot - it will turn the engine withthe key turned off. Mine is the same as on cold mornings I like to turn the engine without firing to pre-oil. BUT unless you have a neutral safety switch on your transmission, if you have it in gear, you can touch the starter button and it will most definately fire enough to move the truck forward (or backward) a good four to five feet! That can be very dangerous if someone is standing in front of your truck or you are closely parallel parked!

I can't help with the Chebby Starter noise. But I do have a question for you. Chevrolet and GM starters usually have their starter solenoid mounted internally in the starter. It's that hump on the thing. Do you have one of those AND the firewall mounted Ford starter solenoid you were talking about in you other posts?

Battery ground cable should attach to the engine - usually on one of the transmission mounting bolts. Then run a strap to the frame, and also one up to the cab. Reason is the starter is the high draw item and needs good grounding - so to have it on the engine is best.

 

Good to hear your input Julie. I do no have a ford starter solenoid. My chebby starter is the one with the soleniod mounted internally. I have ground from the battery to the frame and from the back of the right head to the frame. I did not have the one from the engine to the frame and when I put that one one the problem went away for a while. I been thinking about the one to the cab but was afaid to since do not have any fuse boxes installed yet. My dad tells me this would not be a problem.

 

It sounds like you are ok engine and grounding wise then, and your solenoids are ok. It's a little redundant hooking another strap to the cab too, but it ensures all your lights and starter button have good ground travel. The no fuse thing is not a problem - you only need to be concerned there if you get a short.

Sorry I can't help with the starter noise - kinda gotta hear it.......

 

You said it worked for a while after adding another ground. I would take all grounds apart and clean the attachments for good metal to metal contact. Without taking them apart I've used a set of battery jumper cables to check component to component grounds. if one makes it better, you have found the defective ground. Bad grounds or a battery post corroded can cause starter chatter. I'm not there, so all is just a guess. chuck

 

On GM engines and starters there is a small bracket at the back of the starter (towards the front of the truck) that bolts between the starter and the engine block. This bracket is commonly overlooked and left off.
This little bracket supports the rear of the starter and in some cases, if missing, can lead to the mounting ears of the block breaking off.

Check to see if its there, and tight. Also check the mounting bolts to make sure they are tight. Typically GM starters will need a shim between the starter and the block as well, if there is no shim the starter drive can be too close to the flywheel and give you a heck of a ruckus.

Bobby

 

I took my truck into my mechanic. They found the nose cone on the starter was cracked. Believed it was not allowing the bendix spring to get full tension all the time. Not sure what cracked it, maybe the fact I did not have any of the shims to start with when I replaced the starter. The fly wheel ok. That was my biggest worry. Will see what it does. Thanks for all the comments. Will keep them so if I have issues again I can check other things.

 

I'm glad you found out what it was and that it was an easy fix.

Was the little bracket at the rear of the starter missing? If so that may have contributed to the nose cone to crack.

Bobby