I just bought a 1966 F100. Its in unbelievable condition but wont start.
It turns over just fine. sometimes it starts and runs for a few seconds and goes off and sometimes it just wont start. It seems to be getting fuel to the fuel filter but I cant tell anything past that. It has a new carbuerator and distributor. Any tips on things to try would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Brian

 

Welcome to FTE!

This forum is only for the new F100 that may be a reality; this is not the place for a classic beloved 1966.

The proper forum for the 1966 F100 is here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum40/ 1961-1966 F100 & larger forum

There are a LOT of knowledgeable folks doting the aforementioned forum.

Enjoy your stay!

 

Thread moved; Welcome to FTE!

How's the spark? You say it has a new distributor, how new? Did you install it, or did the PO install it and it's been sitting a while? Might have dirty points, or even new points can have a little film of oil on them that keeps them from working properly.

You might also try tapping on the carb right at the fuel inlet in case the float is sticking closed and not allowing fuel in.

 

First off, Welcome to FTE. Stay with us and we will have that truck running in no time. You stated that you have fuel to the filter. This is the one on the bottom of the fuel pump? Or is there an inline filter near the carb? If you haven't already done so, disconnect the fuel line from the carb and hold the end of the fuel line over a container (a plastic clear bottle works well for this as it keeps the fuel frim splashing all over you and the engine. Put a rag around the opening. Have a buddy or your significant other crank the engine for a few seconds or until you yell at them to stop. (Make sure that the truck is in neutral with the brake on - we do not want to get you run over this soon in the process). If you are getting a steady stream of fuel then you can go to step two. If you are not getting fuel or just a little dribble, then you have a fuel delivery problem. Post back and someone will take it from there. Steve

 

I did just that last nigt. I get a steady stream when cranked. what should I check for next.
Thanks again for your help. I am glad to be here. I love this truck and cant wait to get it running!

 

Brian, TigerDan has a point about new not always being set up right. Can you give us a little more history on the new parts. Is the carburetor new or rebuilt? Sometimes ,whether new or not, they might not have the float level or the fuel level set correct. I had a 289 in a Galaxie that would start on its own terms. sometines it would run for a few miles and sometimes it would not start at all. Usually when it was cold it would start right up but would die as it warmed up. I fought that thing for a couple of weeks and finally changed out the condenser. Problem solved. Your problem could be a number of things. You just have to work through them. Steve

 

Ok, so you have fuel to the carb. Since the carb is new I wouldn't concentrate my efforts there first. If you had seen the 2150 carb on my truck when I bought it you'd wonder how I managed to drive it 50 miles home. I'd look at the distributor instead since you mentioned it being replaced. When doing work on both my 410 and 360 I took the distributors out of both and I know what I am doing. Nonetheless neither would start right up and I knew right where the issue was. Both times I had to go in and re-orientate the distributor to get the engines to fire. All it takes is one tooth...

 

I'd still like to know just what "New" means in terms of the carb and distributor...it can have a big effect on the outcome here. Are they new because you bought them at the auto parts store yourself and installed them so you know for a fact they're new, or do they just look new, or did the PO tell you they were new?

That can be a grey area because "new" to him may mean that they were new when he put them on two or three years ago and it's just been sitting ever since, but you take a new carb and fill it with gas and then leave it sit for a few years and it'll be far from new inside, probably pretty gummed up. Just too many variables, so that's why I'd like to know what the definition of "new" is here, before we get too far ahead of ourselves...

 

I am thinking now that my idea of getting fuel to the the filter closest to the carb may not be right. It gets a very little bit. SHould that be filling up completely? SOrry for the dumb questions, I am learning as I go. Thanks for the help. Brian

 

Is it one of those clear filters that you can actually see the fuel inside? If so, it won't ever appear completely full, they trap air and only fill about halfway. You said you're getting a steady steam of fuel when the engine is cranking, so I suspect that you're okay there.

But is the fuel then getting into the carb? When you open the throttle by hand looking into the carb throat, do you see two good strong jets of fuel from the accelerator pump?

 

As original, a corrogated paper cartridge fuel filter will be found inside a tomato juice sized can that threads onto the pump.

Most people have no idea it's there, so they install an inline fuel filter instead.

And...because most people don't know it's there...it rarely gets changed.

C4AZ9365B .. Cartridge Fuel Filter Element (Motorcraft FG1A) / Available from Ford.

MSRP: $8.93 // FTEpartsguy.com price: $4.82.
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The accelerator pump diaphram used on all Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2V carbs from 1962 thru 1974 is notorious for hardening up and failing.

If you replace this, also replace the accelerator pumps check valve. Both these parts come with the carb kit, all these parts are still available from Ford and autoparts stores.

D4AZ9A586A .. 2V Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT499D)

C4AZ9B559A .. Accelerator Pump Diaphram (Motorcraft CM463)

C4AZ9576A .. Accelerator Pump Check Valve (Motorcraft CM825)

The acc pump diaphram and check valve will be found behind a 4 bolt cover with a lever attached, mounted on the front of the carb.

Warning: When you remove the cover, do it carefully, there's a coil spring behind it.

Most autoparts stores sell rebuilt carbs today, as new carbs have not been available for many years.

Because these carbs may sit on shelves for a long time before someone buy one, the ozone in the air will eat into rubber parts..so they usually will not be any good.

 

I tried getting off the filter (can size one)below the fuel pump.
I cannot get it off. Any suggestions on that?

 

Make sure its clean and not oily for one...assuming its clean get a rag and wrap the can in it and grab a hold of it...remember, lefty loosy righty tighty AS YOU LAY ON GROUND LOOKING UP AT FILTER CAN!!!
Another thing you may try very carefully...get some channel locks...or a humungous crescent wrench if available...and get a bite on the bottom of the can where the flat sides are there...just be careful not to gouge it or mangle it as the filter is right there...nil for crush room...it will come off...patience and perserverance will preval...had same issue when I was working on mine a couple of years ago...Once its breaks loose just put it back on hand tight...a firm hand tight...and make sure the rubber O ring which should be in with new filter is seated properly...I put the O ring on the pump and screwed the can watching to be sure it seated okay as I tightened the can.


I hope this helps, cs65

 

The filter cartridges, as well as the replacement canisters are readily available at parts stores. It's not uncommon for the canister to rust out. Don't worry too much if you trash it getting it off, though I'd check with your local parts store to make sure they have it in stock first...

 

Welcome to FTE

While the can (cannister) may be available from autoparts stores, don't bet on your local parts stores having it in stock, as it hasn't been used since 1976.

C3AZ9355A .. Fuel Filter Cannister / Use with C4AZ9365B Paper Cartridge Fuel Filter / Obsolete

~ FoMoCo Dealers ~

DON SANDERSON FORD in Glendale AZ has 171 (!) = 623-842-8762.

KINSEL L/M in Beaumont TX has 8 = 800-816-2894.

SANDERSON has 1000's of obsolete parts...sells them for below their original cost.

KINSEL sells their obsolete parts at the original list price.
------------------------------------------------------
~ Obsolete Parts Vendors ~

LINCOLN OLD PARTS STORE in Clearwater FL has 1 = 727-445-1091.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 31 = 800-543-4959.

PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has 20 = 888-727-0418.