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Not too hard. I just did mine. I also changed the tie rod ends. I have the cheap Harbour Freight "C" press and 4WD adapter set. I went with Moog. Have all the parts on hand. Running back and forth to the parts store is a major PITA. I had to replace an axle seal. Pretty easy with a home made seal driver made from a piece of flared exhaust tubing from a friends exhaust shop. Getting the spindle off was a little bit of a pain. On assembly, I cleaned all metal mating surfaces with emery cloth and anti-siezed everything . The grease zerks that came with the Moog are too long.The front axle U joint rubbed the zerk. Orielly's has some that are shorter. Put the zerks on before you put the axle in. Speaking of axle's, remember to put it back in before you put the spindle back on. It's no fun having to take the spindle off, again.Torque the inner spindle nut to 50 ft-lb while spinning the hub, and then back off 1/4 turn. The outter nut is torqued to 160-205 ft-lb. Specs come from the Ford manual and are for manual hubs. I can get the other torque specs if you want them.
The socket for the ball joint nut is a 1 5/16. 32mm works too. The post on the ball joint tends to spin on tightening. I can't remember how I got it to stop spinning. I think I read on FTE that a floor jack on the steering knuckle with a little pressure will bind it up enough to tighten the nut.
4x4 looking for something a little beefyier than stock because I do alot of plowing
The Moogs are better than OEM. I assume you are asking about a 1999.
You should post the specifics about your truck when asking questions or you
will get great instructions (like JAFO1 above) but doesn't pertain to your truck.
You have captured wheel bearings.
I know that advanced auto parts has the ones there kind of like a C clamp to rent or i know a buddy of mine has a press down in his machine shop I could probably use
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