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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 12:25 PM
  #1  
flyguy99pwrstrk's Avatar
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Ball Joints

How hard or pain in the *** is it to change front ball joints. Mine are sloping around? And where is a good place to get replacements?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 01:18 PM
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Moog are the only brand I use, they hold up longer than most and will come with a grease fitting. Is this 2WD or 4x4?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 01:52 PM
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Just posting to keep informed. Mine are about to go out as well. Is there a difference if its 4x4? My search shows me nada.
 

Last edited by DRRXR; Mar 29, 2009 at 01:54 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 02:46 PM
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4x4 looking for something a little beefyier than stock because I do alot of plowing
 
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 04:17 PM
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Did a little digging

Originally Posted by flyguy99pwrstrk
4x4 looking for something a little beefyier than stock because I do alot of plowing

Try this link Your Premiere Source for Ford Truck Parts and Accessories

I think I will look mine over real good and replace whats needed. POOR on $$$ since the tranny upgrade and the rut in the economy. :?) Rhex
 
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 05:04 PM
  #6  
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it takes a special press to make it easy. other wise PITA!
 
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 10:16 PM
  #7  
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Not too hard. I just did mine. I also changed the tie rod ends. I have the cheap Harbour Freight "C" press and 4WD adapter set. I went with Moog. Have all the parts on hand. Running back and forth to the parts store is a major PITA. I had to replace an axle seal. Pretty easy with a home made seal driver made from a piece of flared exhaust tubing from a friends exhaust shop. Getting the spindle off was a little bit of a pain. On assembly, I cleaned all metal mating surfaces with emery cloth and anti-siezed everything . The grease zerks that came with the Moog are too long.The front axle U joint rubbed the zerk. Orielly's has some that are shorter. Put the zerks on before you put the axle in. Speaking of axle's, remember to put it back in before you put the spindle back on. It's no fun having to take the spindle off, again.Torque the inner spindle nut to 50 ft-lb while spinning the hub, and then back off 1/4 turn. The outter nut is torqued to 160-205 ft-lb. Specs come from the Ford manual and are for manual hubs. I can get the other torque specs if you want them.
The socket for the ball joint nut is a 1 5/16. 32mm works too. The post on the ball joint tends to spin on tightening. I can't remember how I got it to stop spinning. I think I read on FTE that a floor jack on the steering knuckle with a little pressure will bind it up enough to tighten the nut.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 05:11 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by flyguy99pwrstrk
4x4 looking for something a little beefyier than stock because I do alot of plowing
The Moogs are better than OEM. I assume you are asking about a 1999.
You should post the specifics about your truck when asking questions or you
will get great instructions (like JAFO1 above) but doesn't pertain to your truck.
You have captured wheel bearings.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 07:29 AM
  #9  
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I am a idiot I posted this in the wrong part. Yeah its on a 99 and thanks for the info guy's
 
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 07:42 AM
  #10  
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balljoint replacement us pretty much the same on all vehicles......

1 -Buy a balljoint press..... most expensive but easiest...
2 - use a BFH and pound them out.....

I recommend #1
 
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 08:46 AM
  #11  
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Yea, i think that is going to be one of my next investments is a press to do that.

There is a new Ford Ball joint out there, they had it in the last issue of diesel power.

Don't have it in front of me htough, its up state, and i'm down state.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 09:02 AM
  #12  
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I know that advanced auto parts has the ones there kind of like a C clamp to rent or i know a buddy of mine has a press down in his machine shop I could probably use
 
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