grrrr, shredded mine on the way home Friday night. Fortunatelly my wife was following me so I wasn't stranded. Good thing it didn't happen in the morning as I was bombing a couple miles of 18-36 inch drifts. Got it off the road (actually into a drift, no power steering).

Went back yesterday and first spent an hour unwinding pieces of belt off pulleys. Got it out of the drift, again challenging with no PS, and back on the shoulder. Only took a bit to get new belt back on.

The belt that shredded, was at the most 3+ years old, it was probably a Duralast from Autozone, shouldn't it have a better life than that? I replaced it with a Goodyear Gatorback, looked a little more substantial. Anyone have a guess as to its lifespan? I have to admit I hadn't really inspected the old one in recent past.

Anyway, part rant, part curious.......

 

This is gonna sound really bad, but I believe I still have the stock belt on my X.

 

Note to self:
buy new serp belt
stow current belt in Ex as spare

Thx for the reminder, glad you got out of the jam OK.

 

Not sure why anyone would put DuraCrap parts on their car. they are low bid house brand from any number of sources and zero quality control.... I avoid AutoZone like the plague....

 

Those belts do seem to last forever but the two that I replaced on two different trucks I put the old one in back as a spare.That's almost a sure way to secure that you will never need it again.

beach

 

SERP. BELT FAILURE RATE ?

So, how many miles before we should change out the stock one ?

 

If it has the belt with the continuous lined grooves look for signs of crackiing.I have seen belts that look almost new with 200K on them.I prefer the ones with cross cuts in the grooves they give better service for me.

 

i know i am gonna regret this....

i have 120,450 miles on my 01 v10 and its the original. now that i just cursed myself, i am gonna buy a new one tomorrow.

 

better safe than sorry

 

= = =
yes - i obviously agree - which is why I asked - dont want to throw money away but I sure as hell hate walking !

So - tell me, guys - does anyone know - what is a good ball-park mileage figure I should replace that belt. ?

Oh - it is cold out in the garage ,l so I am not going to go out and look; is this an easy job to do ? Typical spring-loaded tensioner that you release the tension using a socket and long-handled socket-wrench ? Have to take anything apart to change out the belt ?

 

It depends entirely on what you are buying.

You can get the Duralast serpentine belt for $35, or you can get the Goodyear Gatorback for $45. (V-10 gas engine prices)

 

Be sure to check the tension and idler pulley. If the bearings are bad they will eat belts if they are not turning properly or misaligned.

 

WOW, looks like I brought up a good subject, at least remind all of us to check them out. I've changed them out before on a couple chebys that I had, like beachcomber said, they had cracks on the inside, perpendicular to the ribs. That's why I replaced this one three some years ago. I didn't put a bunch of miles on since replacing either, with the $4 gallon fuel, mine didn't get a lot of use last year.

This one totally destroyed itself. I did spend the time needed to remove all the bits and pieces, the pulleys all appeared to be working well, but I will for sure keep an eye on the belt for the next couple thousand miles to check for unusual wear.

And I understand, you get what you pay for at Autozone, I've had reasonable performance, vs. price with most of their parts. But that's up to the individual, roll the dice, or pay the price. Like I said. the extra $10 for the Gatorback, turned into a no-brainer.

Check them out folks, I think I will buy an extra "Duracrap" just for emergency use. Kinda like the CPS that I have in the glove box, (no, I haven't ran it in for the recall yet, bought the CPS before the recall)

6686L, yes, typical tensioner, but no socket required, 1/2" inset for a ratchet or breaker bar, cheater bar makes it easier. Oh, and on the 2000 7.3, removal of the upper radiator hose is required. Seems like the first time I lost some fluid, but this time I didn't, and my reservoir was full.

Happy Trails.........

 

[quote=, . . . 6686l, yes, typical tensioner, but no socket required, 1/2" inset for a ratchet or breaker bar, cheater bar makes it easier. . . . . . Happy trails.........[/quote]

= = =

thanks for the info. Still trying to get someone, anyone, to voice an opinion as to at what mileage we should change the serp. Belt...? ? ?

 

Well, I braved the friggen wind to go out and get my owner info. In the "Scheduled Maintenance Guide" there is no mention that I could find of a "replacement" only inspection.

I guess myself, I will start checking the belt for cross-checking whenever I change oil. Seems like a good interval for inspection.

Once bitten, twice shy..........