1996 F150 2wd 300 I6 w/ M5od 5 spd( crappy? )tranny...
oook this may be long but i need to describe best i can. When i first bought the truck she smoked for a few miles as she had sat for a while but that wen tright away soon after. I'm leaking a bit of coolant from at least one freeze plug, and I did throw a code not too long ago Po411 blew out and replaced a few hoses disconnected the battery and no new codes in 2 k miles.. Turning on the truck, not sitting too long just ovenite and only sometimes sounds like there is lack of lubrication, with fresh oil.. i replaced the clutch maste cylinder in a parking lot an bled it albeit not sure if properly, shifting at times is harder than others sometime she slides in and out like butter other times i need to fight a bit to get it in 2nd.. makes a swishing metal to metal sound i can hear and feel though the shifter in second at times
taking off in first hearing a creaking sometimes loud, also a minor grinding type rattling also sometimes in third if im in it too low in rpm's makes the ratlle and a bit of grind <no creak, could those just be body or bed mounts?>. could this be a transmission issue or driveshaft?. cannot isolate alone and im alone on this one. also having trouble since i bought it getting up to any speed on the highway.. takes a long time to get up to speed, and any type of incline requires fourth gear.. i feel like im revving the motor too high at times at 75 in fourth gear.. but fifth just doesnt have it. she tows fine enough for a 150 and can get out of her own way in every gear but 5th.. ive done plugs and wires they seemed to help it run smoother for a few days then started skippin just a bit at idle, not misfining just a shimmy at random. I also have an exhaust leak from the manifold i cannot shake, not sure if this hurts my perfomance or not.. anyone have any ideas?

 

Well here goes.....

Sounds like the clutch needs to be re-bled again, like there might be some air inn the system, and you might need a whole new clutch if its making creaking noises. If its making grinding and rattling noises, thats probably going to be your tranny, as driveshafts dont really make noise, they just vibrate the heck outta your truck. Sounds like bad synchros, worn gears, and maybe a worn shift fork.

Getting it up to speed doesnt sound like anything out of the ordinary to me, because you only have an inline 300.....they have a lotta power and grunt down low, but not so much at highway. You say you're revving it too high, what RPM?

You did plugs and wires, did you do cap and rotor too?

Finally, an exhaust leak will kill some performance, depending on the severity of the leak, but if you don't fix it, it could eventually lead to a burned out and cracked valve/valves. This is due to the valves being hot when the engine is running, but when it is off, cold air can some through the crack and get to that hot metal, resulting in bad valves......again though, all depending on the severity of the leak

 

No, iv'e yet to do the cap and rotor, I'll take care of that.. the exhaust leak isn't too bad they tried to fix it,failed. i've yet to tackle it myself as I'm pissed they closed shop right after. I'm not sure on the RPM's with no tach, or shift light. could a fluid change buy me any time, the truck is at 125k now thought i could get a bit more from this transmission, it just seems odd they'd put a gear in i cannot even use unless im going 75 or above. How easily would a ZF go in my truck if at all? how long do O2 sensors last? and do i have two of those? and how about the oil starvation at startup, im worried about that one.

 

a small block ZF is a bolt-in swap, so relatively easy, just make sure you get one from a 2WD. That wouldnt be your problem though I think, I think its whatever your engine is having problems with thats not letting it create the power it should be making.

O2 sensors can last for a couple thousand miles, but if you're having really rich fuel conditions, or oil blowing by, they can get in and clog those up pretty fast. I dont know for sure if you do, but im guessing in a 96 that you would, just climb under and see, one should be pre-cat and one should be post-cat.

As far as oil starvation, it sounds like your oil pump could be losing its prime, or it might just be time for a new one.

 

The I6 trucks were saddled with completely useless gears in most cases, 3.08's were common and even 2.73's!! Check your drivers door pillar for a code and compare it to here.. https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...de_Chart_.html
If you have one of these ratios and you want a functional 5th gear swap in 3.55's. Even then this motor only makes 150hp and these trucks have the aerodynamics of a tool shed so don't expect 100mpg out of it, it's just not in the cards. Remove your driveshaft and check the U-joints, dry bearing will make the noises you report.

 

you could try a additive for the oil as well to try and help your dry start. I would recommend Z-max, it comes with a fuel and oil additive, I've had good results with it, its about forty bucks for both, but only need it every 6000 miles.

 

i would change the tranny fluid and run a thicker oil in it, tends to quiet things down. my buddies fox body would grind all the gears we put thick oil in it and now it only grinds 2ed gear when it's cold--i know doesn't make sense but it worked

 

thanks for the input will put it all to use.. just got my haynes manual, 10$ on craigslist lucky me lol. they don't cover everything, but i won't have to bug you guys for stupid crap now. i think my driveshaft def needs rebuilding ,play there, my gears need changing i have 2.73.. don't understand how these are useful gears, unless it's for the grunt, as she pulls things well. and my shift fork and servos may be worn. going to try changing the fluid in the tranny think it has ATF now going to use something thicker. she shifts better when it's cold so makes sense. motorcraft filter seems to have fixed the dry starts, for now anyhow. the exhaust manifold leak is definitely shoddy mechanic work he tried to fabricate a gasket out of 1/8 inch steel.. looks as if it should be directly fitted.
now if his shoddily made gasket is resricting flow would cause lack of power, right?
im going to replace both O2's and distributor cap shortly as well. again thanks gents;.

 

yes it should be directly fitted, but if there's a lot of warping, a copper gasket should be used, not one made out of 1/8" steel lol. and yes, if the "gasket" is that badly made, it is probably doing something to your exhaust pulses, not letting them pull all the exhaust out and causing you to lose power.

 

Some of the trans noise could worn bearings