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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 03:21 PM
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Take a look...

Before I go off and buy parts (hopefully tomorrow) I'm uploading some pictures that I took.

After making sure the distributor was rotating (which it was and I could see a small spark) I made sure the carb was getting fuel which it is. I could see the jets coming from those two small fuel injector things (not sure on the name). I realized the spark plug wires and spark plugs really need to be replaced and I think that's been my main problem.

Here are a few pictures of the engine along with the carb. That's how much fuel I encountered when I removed the top, I looked inside and there's relatively little particles floating around, it looks pretty clean (a problem I was having before). Let me know if you notice something I don't. Also on the picture with the air and fuel mixture adjusters (which I need to figure out how to use) you can see the vacuum line up near the top (it's fuzzy) this likes to slip out but I don't think that's a huge deal when I'm just trying to get it started...





 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 03:56 PM
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Not to sound to negative but I would have the truck taken to a shop and have them fix it. It's diffifuclt to diagnose problems unless you know some specifics that may draw you away from another answer. There has been a lot of great information expressed on the problem however, without have some experience you may never solve your problem. It could be something simple that a shop could fix in very little time at least you will have your truck running. Just my $.02
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 04:04 PM
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That's good advice and I've evidently thought of it, but essentially that would mean giving up to me. I'm going to do what I can and in a few weeks if I still can't figure it out maybe I'll have someone take a look at it from the local shop.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 04:24 PM
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i've found being friends with a mechanic is very useful, that and having a fridge full of beer when I can't figure something out. If he hasn't been able to help due to not having the free time, he's usually had one of his buddies call me; for a bit of cash and some beer they usually come over and teach me what I need to know, do the work, or diagnose it as a significant issue.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 04:30 PM
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From: LINCOLN, IL
that gas loooks really super old in that carb bowl

hmmm

usally fresh gas is almost clear

and turns more yellow as it ages

hmm

set fuel mixtures initially around 2 turns out from all the way in but dont turn them in realy tight because you could damage the screws, just turn in until seated enough ot tell that they are in all the way, then back them out

then when you get it running set the timing with a gun and then set the idle speed to around 550 or 600 or whatever it should be and then you set the mixture screws by backing out one of the screws and by using a tachometer until the engine speeds up and then stop when it stops speeding up, then do the same for the other screw

then adjust idle speed down to where its supposed to be again

vacuum connector cant see would need a good pic of it.

the vacuum advance you connect usually to a port on the carb that is above the throttle blades level of the carb so that it is ported source.

but it depends on how you set the timing, with the vac advance connected to a full vacuum intake source, or to a ported above throttle blades source

some engines wont run right when revving up or under load speeding up without the vac advance connected to ported source

you wont know til everything is set and you drive it to check

its kidna complicated at first but once you understand it its pretyt easy



the jet squirts are from the acclerator pump and those are the jets from the pump, pumpshot so that it doest stumble stall when you go to accelerate

good luck
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 04:39 PM
  #6  
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It may just be the picture but your fuel looks kinda funky. Is it old or does it have some kind of additive in it? Have you pulled any plugs to see if they are gas fouled? If so, you might try cleaning the plugs, then clear the engine out by cranking it over with no spark plugs in it. Sometimes brakeclean sprayed in the cylinders will help with this. If you use brakeclean, be sure to unhook one of the coils primary wires before cranking. (the little ones) Then, unhook and plug off your fuel supply.

Put fresh clean fuel in a spray bottle and spray a few mists while someone is cranking up. If it starts you can mist it to keep it running. If it runs you have a fuel system problem with either the fuel itself, carb, or delivery problem ie, tank/lines/pump. This is a perfectly safe method and simulates the carbs fuel delivery.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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Great thanks guys. Yeah I think something's wrong with the fuel, probably just from the tank sitting around for so long. There was lead additive in it as well.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 06:11 PM
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That's the vacuum advance line that slips in and out. It shouldn't affect whether or not it starts. You have "enough" fuel level to run, but it's a little on the low side. With the cover on, the float takes up some of the space and raises the level.

If you are going to own this truck, you should learn how to fix it yourself, or you'll go broke running to a mechanic. Plus, you'll have the pride in doing it yourself! Here's a link to a carb manual, the first step is to read, read, and read some more!

Note -- this is for a later model carb but it is virtually identical as far as major adjustments and construction

The Old Car Manual Project: Manuals and tech info online
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 12:34 AM
  #9  
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Julies Cool F1
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I'm definately with Ross on this one. There's no better way to learn than with one of those old Bullet proof Flatties. Plus, and ythis is just my opinion - Unless yo ufind an old guy somewhere, or someone specifically trained to fix older engines, I'd venture to say that the guy youmight take it to doesn't know any more about that engine and it's peculiarities (like that vacuum advance) than you do.

Have fun with it, and when it starts to "Fight back" let it go for a couple days.

Just ask guys like John Smith Jr.!!!!!!!!
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 03:19 PM
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Another way to rule out problems is with aerosol "starting fluid" or "ether". It's at all the parts houses or Wally world etc. Have someone crank the engine and then spray into the carb while it's cranking. If the engine runs you have eliminated spark issues, mechanical problems etc and most likely it's fuel delivery. Just one thing though, BE CAREFUL, starting fluid is highy flammable.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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You guys might actually be proud of me for once! I installed some new spark plug wires and spark plugs, cleaned around the spark plugs etc. played around with the carb a little and I actually got it running for five seconds. What a relief except it brings more problems. When I shut it off I could hear fuel gargling in the carb and it was leaking all over the block, at first I thought it was flooded or something (not sure) but it was going all over I think I need to play around with carb settings or something; has this ever happened to anyone?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 06:43 PM
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Sounds like your float is stuck open (down). Make sure it doesn't have fuel inside it (happens if the get cracked). Then set the float level per the manual in the post above.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 07:14 PM
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Hey, I actually just checked out my manual (imagine that) and I figured out I need to reset the float level. Maybe that will fix the "starting but doesn't run for more than five seconds" problem.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 07:53 PM
  #14  
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Yes x3. So I went out fixed the float level (that was kinda fun)
It runs as long as I have the choke out (is that proper terminology) maybe I'll just say engaged so you understand. It's putting a lot of fumes into the air... running rich? I tried adjusting the mixture screws but no matter what I do if I push the choke button in to disengage it it just shuts off... any thoughts?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 08:10 PM
  #15  
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Stay with it. Like Ross and Julie are saying,...you need to and can learn to do the work on these old fellas yourself. There is a lot of good, patient people on here that will help you do it.
I am a newbie myself but so far,....with lots of help from these guys I have rebuilt my entire brake system, carberator, replaced the entire front and rear suspention, distributor, re-wired lights, horn turnsignals, rebuilt vacuum wipers, glove compartment, hingepin mirrors,fuel pump, gas tank and all lines........anyway,.....I am a house painter and this old Ford thing aint something I had any clue about before I started to ask these guys how. Save your money and learn. Read and then read more,....and then read more.
After awile you can ride in your truck and feel good that if a problem developes, you got a good shot at getting it home.
Good luck
 
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