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My 2003 6.0L F-350 dually only has 47K on it but is past the time limit on the drivetrain warranty, so from now on everything is my problem In the first few years it went through 6 TC's and had to have the head bolts replaced when it blew a head gasket. I really thing the TC's were just gunked up but Ford doesn't fix anything, they just replace it. Since the head gasket incident I have been running a SuperChips Flashpaq tuner. I actually think it has helped because I have not had to have a TC replaced since that time I have been getting error codes for several different things but it seems that clearing the codes helps it keep going better than when I don't. Recently I have noticed it farting. I took it out and ran the DS out of it and it straightened out. Unfortunately I think this is just the beginning of more problems. I only use this truck for pulling trailers and I don't use it to just ride around in. This practice has helped it run better for more miles before needing any work.
I have read and heard about people doing things to these rigs to eliminate the usual problems. The truck looks like a new one and is in very good shape. Therefore I am inclined to spend a considerable amount of money on it to make it work for me. To that end I am interested in knowing what some people are doing to make these things right. I have heard everything form different TC's to bigger exhaust systems. I have also heard about using after market TC's with no variable vane system and somehow cheating the PCM while doing that. I do not know about any actual cases. If I have to work on this thing I want to do what ever it takes to get it right the first time. I would rather spend several K on parts than keep paying people to throw the same old parts back at it. there is no longer a warranty to consider so I can do what ever I want.
I want to hear what others have done. If any one out there has been through this and has discovered the right way to do up these engines I want to know about it. I'm not interested in buying another $50K truck and go through this all over again.
One thing people do is eliminate the VGT turbo, that way you won't have the sticking turbo or turbo fart problem anymore, for that though you will need custom tunes, not sure if your tuner has that capability or not. Another thing is to do away with the egr system all together, no chance of an egr valve sticking on you that way also having no cooler gets rid of one of the common 6.0 problems. If you do go this route you might as well get some ARP headstuds put in while everything is apart anyways, save problems down the road with possible future headgasket problems if the heads are straight with the ARP's in there. Now also if you are this far in you might as well go ahead with a fluidampner, save some stress on the crank.
I would stick with the stock head gaskets though, they are good gaskets just bad headbolts from the factory in these trucks, although I think the bolts themselves are actually ok, just some weren't torqued properly at the factory apparently. May also want to look into the CCV reroute that many of the members here have done, keeps the oil vapors from entering your intake sytem, keeping everything cleaner.
Another thing is the injectors, might want to upgrade to a set of purpose built towing injectors, usually better then the stock injectors.
I'm doing the same thing you are considering, although my choices is quite high in the performance arena. Here's some things to get you started.
Replace VGT Turbo
Replace Injectors
Do an EGR Cooler/Valve Delete
Install FASS Pump
Install Regulated Return System
Install a head cross over line
Install ARP Studs with OEM Gaskets
Install 4" Turbo-back
Install a Spearco or Banks Technicooler
Throw the flashpaq in the trash and get an SCT with some work by Eric @ Innovative
Enjoy the convience of a power beast, depending on how much power you want. I, for example, am going with II 62/70 Turbo, 205cc Injectors, and 70psi fuel pump.
One thing people do is eliminate the VGT turbo, that way you won't have the sticking turbo or turbo fart problem anymore, for that though you will need custom tunes, not sure if your tuner has that capability or not. Another thing is to do away with the egr system all together, no chance of an egr valve sticking on you that way also having no cooler gets rid of one of the common 6.0 problems. If you do go this route you might as well get some ARP headstuds put in while everything is apart anyways, save problems down the road with possible future headgasket problems if the heads are straight with the ARP's in there. Now also if you are this far in you might as well go ahead with a fluidampner, save some stress on the crank.
I have heard about getting rid of the VGT turbo and I also heard that it required a special tune. I do know that there are people who write special programs for the SCT Flashpaq tuner but I don't know if anyone writes one for this application. I'll have to check on that.
The EGR valve thing sounds like something I would be interested in but I need to find out more about it.
Ford apparently knew about the headstud problem because when the head gasket blew they told me they replaced all the studs on both bamks with a better grade of stud.
Please explain the fluidamper you mentioned. I don't know what it is or what it does.
I'm doing the same thing you are considering, although my choices is quite high in the performance arena. Here's some things to get you started.
Replace VGT Turbo
Replace Injectors
Do an EGR Cooler/Valve Delete
Install FASS Pump
Install Regulated Return System
Install a head cross over line
Install ARP Studs with OEM Gaskets
Install 4" Turbo-back
Install a Spearco or Banks Technicooler
Throw the flashpaq in the trash and get an SCT with some work by Eric @ Innovative
Enjoy the convience of a power beast, depending on how much power you want. I, for example, am going with II 62/70 Turbo, 205cc Injectors, and 70psi fuel pump.
Just out of curiosity, what is the tab for all that stuff??? As I mention above, I am not looking for radical performance improvements. So far as I am concerned, if it performs as good as it does now with the SCT Flashpaq, I'm happy. With that thought in mind, I am wondering if I need to do all the stuff you listed above. My main objective is to eliminate the constant aggrivation which is probably caused by the VGT turbo and RGR valve. Do I really need to change the injectors for my purposes?
What is a FASS pump and why do I need that?
What is a regulatee return system?
I assume that a Spearco or Banks Technicooler is the intercooler. If so I would rather not replace that if at all possible.
I doubt I'll be throwing the SCT tuner in the trash even though it might be necessary to replace it with one that will do what I need.
Please don't misunderstand me, I'm not trying to be adversarial here, I just want to achieve certain goals that I am sure fall short of what you have in mind. I'm just not interested in going so extreme.
I would stick with the stock head gaskets though, they are good gaskets just bad headbolts from the factory in these trucks, although I think the bolts themselves are actually ok, just some weren't torqued properly at the factory apparently. May also want to look into the CCV reroute that many of the members here have done, keeps the oil vapors from entering your intake sytem, keeping everything cleaner.
Another thing is the injectors, might want to upgrade to a set of purpose built towing injectors, usually better then the stock injectors.
Please explain the CCV reroute in detail. Also, how necessary is it to replace the injectors if I'm not into extreme performance? As I mentioned above, I would be happy with my current performance if I could eliminate the nagging problems.
A 4" turbo back exhaust was mentioned which is something I am interested in doing. Please calrify, is that eliminating the cat converter or including a larger cat converter? Just curious...
Fluidampner has been proven to cause LPOP gear failure and eventually total engine destruction. Eric @ Innovative has research the theory and found proof, as well as many discussions across multiple diesel forums. 6L PWR was one who blew out his gear from having a dampner installed that also led to a total engine destruction. Keep in mind this is under extreme conditions with power ranging from 550+. In my opinion it's not worth the hassle, time, and labor to put one in if you believe you will never go above 550hp. The fluidampner was essentially believed to reduce harmonic crank vibration, which does not effect the diesel as much as previously thought.
Originally Posted by dave boley
Just out of curiosity, what is the tab for all that stuff??? As I mention above, I am not looking for radical performance improvements. So far as I am concerned, if it performs as good as it does now with the SCT Flashpaq, I'm happy. With that thought in mind, I am wondering if I need to do all the stuff you listed above. My main objective is to eliminate the constant aggrivation which is probably caused by the VGT turbo and RGR valve. Do I really need to change the injectors for my purposes?
You are right. The constant aggravation is the VGT and EGR. One thing you have to remember is the FlashPaq has standard programs. They are custom only to what SCT puts in. When you start modifying the engine with a different turbo, removing EGR, upgrading injectors, etc. You need to have a custom tune file wrote in order to make the necessary adjustments.
The tab on parts will run me about $15,000. However, like I previously said I am going for power and speed, versus longetivity. We will be working out at 600hp without juice (NOS, Meth) and ~650+ on juice. I'm also replacing the stock 5R110 Transmission with either an ID NADP or Suncoast Competition 5R110 with billet ins/outs.
Originally Posted by dave boley
What is a FASS pump and why do I need that?
FASS is a fuel pump replacement for the stock system. The stock system is quite weak in regards to performance. I run a 150hp over stock file and in the hardest runs I drop FP from 55psi idle down to 45psi idle. Now this is within reason for stock injectors, but if you move up to something like Stage I, II, or III Tow injectors. You will severly reduce the life of your pump and injectors. You won't be able to supply a constant amount of PSI to the injectors without massive pressure drops from heavy throttle. FASS sends 70-80psi (depending on needle) straight ot the FICM from the tank.
Originally Posted by dave boley
What is a regulatee return system?
RRS is an addon to the FASS/Injector upgrade. This provides a regulated pressure return so that you loose no pressure. In a FASS/RRS combination your input pressure will come in at 70/80PSI and then regulate to 45/55PSI around the heads and return. It's to balance the intake/return passages of the fuel system.
Originally Posted by dave boley
I assume that a Spearco or Banks Technicooler is the intercooler. If so I would rather not replace that if at all possible.
Upgrading the intercooler will help to lower your intake temperatures and provide more power and lesser EGT's. When you upgrade from stock injectors and VGT turbo it is highly recommended to upgrade the intercooler. If you are moving to just a standard VGT-replacement turbo which is similiar to the 7.3L except beefier (for the 6.0) then you do not need to change it at that time. It ends up becoming a "do I want it so my temps are much lower?" If you plan to tow heavy an intercooler upgrade is a great thing to do! EGT damage turbo's over time in heavy use situations (constant towing.)
Originally Posted by dave boley
I doubt I'll be throwing the SCT tuner in the trash even though it might be necessary to replace it with one that will do what I need.
I didn't mean throw it in the trash persay. It was more so you will need a new one lol.
Originally Posted by dave boley
Please don't misunderstand me, I'm not trying to be adversarial here, I just want to achieve certain goals that I am sure fall short of what you have in mind. I'm just not interested in going so extreme.
No apology needed bud. What I showed you was what an extreme setup looks like. If you are wanting to just reduce the likelihood of failed components then something as simple as Non-VGT Turbo and EGR delete would be perfectly fine. If you tow, maybe some Stage I or II Tow Injectors for the extra power. It all boils down to what you want to do.
Fluidampner has been proven to cause LPOP gear failure and eventually total engine destruction. Eric @ Innovative has research the theory and found proof, as well as many discussions across multiple diesel forums. 6L PWR was one who blew out his gear from having a dampner installed that also led to a total engine destruction. Keep in mind this is under extreme conditions with power ranging from 550+. In my opinion it's not worth the hassle, time, and labor to put one in if you believe you will never go above 550hp. The fluidampner was essentially believed to reduce harmonic crank vibration, which does not effect the diesel as much as previously thought.
You are right. The constant aggravation is the VGT and EGR. One thing you have to remember is the FlashPaq has standard programs. They are custom only to what SCT puts in. When you start modifying the engine with a different turbo, removing EGR, upgrading injectors, etc. You need to have a custom tune file wrote in order to make the necessary adjustments.
The tab on parts will run me about $15,000. However, like I previously said I am going for power and speed, versus longetivity. We will be working out at 600hp without juice (NOS, Meth) and ~650+ on juice. I'm also replacing the stock 5R110 Transmission with either an ID NADP or Suncoast Competition 5R110 with billet ins/outs.
FASS is a fuel pump replacement for the stock system. The stock system is quite weak in regards to performance. I run a 150hp over stock file and in the hardest runs I drop FP from 55psi idle down to 45psi idle. Now this is within reason for stock injectors, but if you move up to something like Stage I, II, or III Tow injectors. You will severly reduce the life of your pump and injectors. You won't be able to supply a constant amount of PSI to the injectors without massive pressure drops from heavy throttle. FASS sends 70-80psi (depending on needle) straight ot the FICM from the tank.
RRS is an addon to the FASS/Injector upgrade. This provides a regulated pressure return so that you loose no pressure. In a FASS/RRS combination your input pressure will come in at 70/80PSI and then regulate to 45/55PSI around the heads and return. It's to balance the intake/return passages of the fuel system.
Upgrading the intercooler will help to lower your intake temperatures and provide more power and lesser EGT's. When you upgrade from stock injectors and VGT turbo it is highly recommended to upgrade the intercooler. If you are moving to just a standard VGT-replacement turbo which is similiar to the 7.3L except beefier (for the 6.0) then you do not need to change it at that time. It ends up becoming a "do I want it so my temps are much lower?" If you plan to tow heavy an intercooler upgrade is a great thing to do! EGT damage turbo's over time in heavy use situations (constant towing.)
I didn't mean throw it in the trash persay. It was more so you will need a new one lol.
No apology needed bud. What I showed you was what an extreme setup looks like. If you are wanting to just reduce the likelihood of failed components then something as simple as Non-VGT Turbo and EGR delete would be perfectly fine. If you tow, maybe some Stage I or II Tow Injectors for the extra power. It all boils down to what you want to do.
First of all allow my to thank you for taking the time to do some in depth explaining. Now at least I know enough to do some informed resesrch. I have heard about some of this stuff but I don't really know all that much about it. I have rebuilt countless engines and transmissions over the past forty plus years so at least at this point I can do this work because I have the facility and time to put into it. I'm looking at two to three months downtime in the Winter to do the job.
I had hoped that I could do what I want with a turbo change from VGT, eliminating the EGR, the right tuner and programming and an exhaust upgrade.
I'm not sure what you classify as heavy towing but I never tow more than 10K and for the most part, not more than 8K, I pull at 60 to 65 MPH. Longevity is far more important to me than performance beyond what I get now with the SCT Flashpaq. I was hoping to get by with far lees invested than you are planning for the extreme performance. I was hoping for 4 to 5K max but maybe I'm being un-realistic here.