Well, this a continuation of my "engine cleaning,..bad?" thread.
Thougt I had it licked...
I was checking past threads and found one talking about he Juice can. I remember hearing a odd sounds when rinsing the area, so pulled the can and sure enough, there was a hole.
I swapped it with a good one, cleared codes and went for a drive. 15 seconds later....CEL..
Thinking still that the can may have been my original cause for the light, I put my original egr sensor and solenoid back on. I had swapped out the pair with ones from the '93.
Cleared the codes and went for a drive.........you guessed it.
Again, checked all lines and they seem great.
So now I pulled throttle body because i hear there was an egr groove that could get blocked.
Well,...though the inlets from egr seem to not be blocked, the tubes from the TB and into the intake have a thick black crust ..top to bottom. there were a couple of grooves, they were clear. The gasket seemed to be sucked in a little in spots, so I cleaned it and flipped it incase it was blocking the grooves. Now I don't have the time to remove the manifold and TB completely to clean, it will happen this Saturday.
Also, egr seems to open and close fine....verified by hand.
I'm at a loss as to what could be giving me the code now.
Does anyone have any other ideas....
Could the crust in the intake and channels(tubes) from TB be the cause of my grief???
I am trying to remove the one off the '93, but it siezed on as well. I will keep lubing it and try it. It is clean and looks good, but really so does the one in my daily driver.
Unfortunately I don't have a vacuum gauge, but perhaps I should get one...

I'll try anything....just throw your ideas forward.

 

Code 332 is EGR valve opening not detected. That could be because the sensor is bad, the valve is stuck or diaphram is leaking, a broken vacuum line between the EGR and EVR, broken vacuum line between the EVR and vacuum source, a bad EVR solenoid, or bad electrical connection at the EVR due to corrosion or broken wire.

 

Thanks Paul....Well I was able to get the light to go out today...but only once she got steaming hot. Well, she wasn't steaming, but it smelled like burning rubber and the engine was really hot.
Here's what I know... Upper rad hose is very hot. Bottom hose is not, lots of heat in cab. I was able to make it home, with a few lengthy stops and heater on high..to help relieve. The fact that the coolant is circulating to heater core...tells me that something is circulating, but I am not sure. The fact that one hose is hot and one cold, tell me coolant is not circulating.
The rad is brand new and the thermostat is about a year old, but I changed the weepy thermostat gasket a couple of weeks ago when I changed the rad and the thermostat looked good. The inside of engine and looks very clean.
It is cooling down now and I will try and change the thermostat and see if that is the problem.

 

Paul....Sorry, I forgot to mention that I have tried all those...so I suppose it will be down to the egr itself. I am going to clean up the TB and intake first and see if that helps.
Also I have changed the evr, egr sensor, and solenoid all at the same time(with ones from the '93), and after switching the soup can and still getting the light, I switched all back to the original thinking that maybe one of the parts off the '93 was bad and there was never anything wrong with the origianls since there was a hole in the soup can. I suppose that one could have gone south, so perhaps I will try one at a time tomorrow, but now the overheating is more pressing. The thermostat has been changed but not willing to do anymore tonight. I've had my fill.
However, I don't think it is the thermostat. I suspect the waterpump. I am going to do some more research first, but will pull the pump in the morning. to have a look see

 

Well, I decided to take the thermostat out and see if I had circulation...and I did. So I let it run for awhile and then took it for a 20 minute drive and the gauge never moved really. I took off the rad cap when I got home...there was pressure, but coolant was not much more than warm. I did check the old stat last night and it seemed to open,so I did the boiling water test and it opened. So perhaps it was just sticky. In any event I am about to drain it again, put in the new stat and take it for a drive, but it looks like perhaps the stat was just stuck or something.
However, since I'm picking up my new oil pan today, I am sure I will have enough to do..