Electrolytic Rust Removal
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 69
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From: Wood Ridge NJ
Electrolytic Rust Removal
Has anyone done this? I just did this to some of my parts and it worked out great! Now I want to paint and prime them. I wiped them down but it does not seem like it got everything off. I am thinking of letting them dry, and taking a light hand held wire brush and brushing them. Then I would wipethem down and prime with rusty metal primer. Does this sound good? any ideas?
New User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 22
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From: paradise, ca
I've done it using a battery charger, a Rubbermaid container, and some steel flat bar as the anode. I use a piece of wood laid across the rubbermaid, a piece of round steel small enough to bend to support the peices, and jumper cables to make sure it all has good electrical contact. My anodes surround the container and are wired together with bolts and nuts through holes in the anodes.
It works great.
Your part will usually be a black color when you are done converting all the rust. I use acetone or some other solvent, then prime and paint.
For really bad parts i will let it sit in there awhile, then wire brush, then in again.
It works great.
Your part will usually be a black color when you are done converting all the rust. I use acetone or some other solvent, then prime and paint.
For really bad parts i will let it sit in there awhile, then wire brush, then in again.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
I did a fairly complete writeup on the process, it is in the tech archives on the HAMB.
TOOLS, Rust Removal, the easy way... - THE H.A.M.B.
I'll answer any questions you may have here...
TOOLS, Rust Removal, the easy way... - THE H.A.M.B.
I'll answer any questions you may have here...
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 2
From: Marietta, Ohio
I have done quite a bit of this with heavy machine parts. I started when I was rebuilding an old South Bend 15" X 60" lathe. I had some pretty big parts so I used a heavy duty 55 gal. plastic drum with a five post anode ring and a perforated inner plastic liner to keep the work piece from touching the anodes. I used a DC welder for the power supply and pulled about thirty amps. I found the cheapest place to get the bi-carb of soda was the local tractor supply place. I have some pics stored on one of my computers. If I can find them I'll post them.
There was always a black like film on the stuff when I was done so I used my pressure washer to clean that off first and then acetone. If you are painting the finish item it is really a good idea to get on it right away because the stuff will flash rust while youn are looking at it. One other thing, at least to a point it seemed that the muckier the solution got the better the thing worked.
I would kike to find an old fiberglass bathtub for bigger parts. I have even heard of people digging a pit and lining it with heavy plastic sheeting to do extremely large parts like car bodies.
Later Man...
There was always a black like film on the stuff when I was done so I used my pressure washer to clean that off first and then acetone. If you are painting the finish item it is really a good idea to get on it right away because the stuff will flash rust while youn are looking at it. One other thing, at least to a point it seemed that the muckier the solution got the better the thing worked.
I would kike to find an old fiberglass bathtub for bigger parts. I have even heard of people digging a pit and lining it with heavy plastic sheeting to do extremely large parts like car bodies.
Later Man...
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 915
Likes: 1
From: Gunbarrel, Co.
I did a fairly complete writeup on the process, it is in the tech archives on the HAMB.
TOOLS, Rust Removal, the easy way... - THE H.A.M.B.
I'll answer any questions you may have here...
TOOLS, Rust Removal, the easy way... - THE H.A.M.B.
I'll answer any questions you may have here...
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Vancouver Island
I wire brush and wash the black stuff off... then soak in citric acid solution (if it'll fit in the bucket), and finally treat it with metal prep (like Ospho) or Naval Jelly.
For power, I tried a 3.3V 3A wall wart, but I'd only get a couple hundred milliamps of current. So, I've gone to a variable supply of around 10 volts, and sometimes it's pulled more than 1 amp. This is for items no bigger than a dual headlight door.
The sacrificial steel is a chunk of computer case with the paint sanded off.
I also picked up a 15 liter bucket of molasses at the feed store for $18; haven't tried that yet because we've still been getting frosts and snow here on sunny Vancouver Island. (The electrolysis bucket iced over, but didn't freeze solid.)
For power, I tried a 3.3V 3A wall wart, but I'd only get a couple hundred milliamps of current. So, I've gone to a variable supply of around 10 volts, and sometimes it's pulled more than 1 amp. This is for items no bigger than a dual headlight door.
The sacrificial steel is a chunk of computer case with the paint sanded off.
I also picked up a 15 liter bucket of molasses at the feed store for $18; haven't tried that yet because we've still been getting frosts and snow here on sunny Vancouver Island. (The electrolysis bucket iced over, but didn't freeze solid.)
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,070
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From: Boise, Idaho
I've uses a battery charger, a length of rebar, Red Devil lye, washing soda and a plastic barrel. It works ok. Wash the parts with a pressure washer and spray the bare metal with Phosphoric Acid metal etch.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
Just like angus said, light wire brushing and a good wash does the trick. There's nothing on the parts that mineral spirits will cut. I sometimes use carb cleaner spray if anything just because it's so convenient and dries so quickly...also with the spray it will blow any debris out of the tight spots.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Boise, Idaho
Phosphoric Acid is called 'Metal Etch and Prep'. I use a garden sprayer, dilute it with some water and spray the bare metal. The Phosphorus reacts with Magnetite and Ferric Oxide and forms a Iron Phosphate compound. Use primer after cleaning with Phosphoric Acid, then paint.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 114
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From: Estevan, Sask. Canada
I found that using steel for the anode causes the steel to rust very fast as it is sacrificed in the chemical process. One day of being in the sodium carbonate solution with current passing through it will make the anode look like it had been laying outside on the ground for about 10 years. I use a piece of 3/4 inch stainless tubing. Lasts much much longer and requires being cleaned far less often. A dirty anode will limit the current, slowing down the process. Make sure the battery charger clip connected to the anode doesn't fall into the solution or it will also become a sacrifical anode.
I noticed one person on HAMB say he uses sodium bicarbonate or baking soda. I used sodium carbonate or washing soda. It works faster because the pH is higher.
Rick
I noticed one person on HAMB say he uses sodium bicarbonate or baking soda. I used sodium carbonate or washing soda. It works faster because the pH is higher.
Rick
Senior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 454
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From: Sugar Land & Bandera, TX
Rick do you have a link or a brand of washing soda?