Hi all, it's been a while since I last posted. First, I would like to say that I have used the search feature. I did find some answers to some questions, but I still have a few unanswered questions. My 58 is in need of some upgrades when it comes to steering. The front has been renewed with the exception of the gear box. It has been adjusted to it's limit and is not safe to continue to use. I need some opinions based on experience. I have 300 bucks to spend. I also already have a good Toyota box, pump, lines, and pitman arm. I currently have an automatic, so two arm steering isn't a big issue for me. However, I have a T-5 that is going in someday, and I can only imagine what it will be like taking off from a stop in first gear while turning, and trying to steer and shift at the same time. So, that brings me to my question. Would I be better off to rebuild the stock manual box currently installed and completely engineered, or install the Toyota power box, doable, but not engineered completely for my application. I would like to modify the Toyota pump bracket to bolt to my 351W, which I am capable of. I would use the drawings supplied by Bobbytnm to make my own bracket. Does the bracket in the first drawing need to be 3/8" thick as per the drawing, or could it be 1/4"? Also, does the top and bottom of the Ford frame rail run at different angles where the bracket mounts? I ask because the top of the bracket in Bobby's first drawing and the bottom aren't parallel. The top is at 45 degrees and the bottom 55. Once more, should the bottom edge of the "dog ear" that bolts to the frame be collinear with the bottom face of the bracket? Would it be cheaper and easier to make the second bracket? Which design is less likely to fail?





Also, the only pitman arm that I find available for this application has the ball for the 53-56 drag link, which was redesigned in 57 to a hole for the threaded shaft on the also newly designed drag link. Is it easy to make the 57-60 drag link work with this pitman arm? I do have a 55 drag link, can I use it on the 58 steering arm to fit the CPP pitman arm? I've found a guy on eBay selling pitman arms for Toyota boxes. They are just flat stock with one splined end and a hole in the other end. The splined end of his pitman arms has what is know as an FJ80 taper. Do any of you know if this is the correct taper for the Toyota box? I do have the correct box for the application, I'm just curious if this pitman arm will fit my box? Also, does my ride height determine how long the pitman arm should be? If I have lowered the front of my truck by removing every other leaf will it matter? Should I get a pitman arm the same length as the stock one, or as close as possible? I would prefer to buy one rather than make one, but I am worried that I will spend the money and it won't work, and I'm not to keen on the idea of having the two pitman arms welded together, it's just too important to have it fail on me.

Lastly, I would like to ask about connecting the column to the box. I have the Toyota u-joint. Have anyone of you had any luck using this u-joint to connect to the stock column, or should I just bite the bullet and buy one specific for the job.

Please don't confuse my frugality with being cheap. I am concerned with safety, I just would like to have money left to use elsewhere if possible. Thanks in advance for any tips you provide. John

 

So that you’re very good post gets a bump to the top that it deserves….. sorry, I don’t have a clue.

 

Wel, I got confirmation this afternoon, that my gearbox does definitely not have an FJ80 taper. That is the series after this one. So, I am still looking for a pitman arm.

 

Power Steering Pumps and Alternator Brackets several different applications here.

http://www.ndgearheadscruiserproducts.com/id21.htm another direct link to the 57-60 (and others) Ford pickups.

 

I installed a Manual Toyota Box in my 51F1 I because I didn't want to try to hook a pump up to the Flathead 6. I used 3/8" steel to make the Bracket, after I had it made per the drawing it wouldn't fit my frame. I wound up cutting it back apart and clamped it in the frame at the proper angles tacked it together then removed it and welded it back together. Note; "I'm not knocking the drawings, it just didn't work without modification for me". I used the stock Toyota steel ball on the Pitman arm, the stock ford ball on the Steering Arm. On the Drag Link I used the Toyota joint end and the Ford joint end. I used 1/2 from each Drag Link and Tig Welded them together. All this combined with the 3" Dropped Axle gave me a serious case of Bump Steer. I used one of those Bernzomatic Oxygen Torch Kits, and a Hand Torch to heat and bend the Drag Link. Hope this helps...


<TABLE style="MARGIN-LEFT: 5px" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 align=left border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left height=14></TD></TR><TR><TD align=left></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

That's some sound advice, thanks. I'm beginning to think that I'll make the bracket in the second picture. I'm still not sure what direction I'll go with the pitman arm.

 

That second drawing is mine roughly diagramming the type mount Mid Fifty sells. It was not meant to be a working drawing, and needs to be adjusted to fit your application. If you make the first type mount, do not make it out of anything thinner than 3/8" stock. Note that you need to trim a small (~ 1/8") off the pitman arm end of the box mounting foot to allow the box to fit tight into the frame. Look at the box it should be pretty obvious what needs to be trimmed.