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I recently went to a body to get an estimate for some damage that was done to my car. It was a reasonable quote. So while I was there I asked the guy how much it might cost to have the 2 floor pans replaced, 2 rocker panels replaced and 2 cab corners replaced on an 85 F-150 long bed standard cab. Now this includes cutting them out and welding them in and does not include paint.
Quote: $6000.00
I damn near choked! I asked him again if that included painting the entire truck and he said nope. Just to cut them out and put new panels in was going to be $6000.00. I didn't ask any more questions and went on my confused way.
Is that a good quote for replacing body panels? I just don't see how! The quote for my car was great but for the truck?! Sheesh!
Anybody have a good "guestimate" for panel replacement?
Bad quote bad quote...oh boy, what a bad quote. That's very high, considering you could probably do it yourself or most of it with some sheetmetal and a torch! I mean, you do have to consider that he floor boards and the rocker panels and cab corners all involve cutting and fitting, and especially the floor boards, you gotta gut the floor of the existing interior, cut out the old floor and weld in a new one. That's not an easy task. But $6K? that sounds way too high. I think $2 or $3k tops would be a good estimate, with paint, fully assembled. But then again I don't work in that field, so for me to throw a number like that is strictly a guestimate.
Ryan
1986 F-250 HD 4x4
4.10 gears, C6 trany
351W, Edelbrock 351 Performer intake
Edelbrock Performer 600cfm 4bbl carb
Edelbrock Pro-Flo air cleaner
Extreme 4x4 camshaft
Flowmaster 30 series dual exhaust
Custom headers
3" Warn body lift
I work on the fringes of the autobody trade and have found that some bodyshops don't like to do certain types of work, rust repairs being a big one of them. To this end they will give outrageous estimates in the hopes that the person will go elsewhere and if they don't, then they're making a lot of money. I did the floorpans and front cabmounts on my '72 and it didn't even take a weekend to do it. The April 2001 Mitchell manual(collision estimating guide) gives a flat rate time of 4.5hrs for each outer rocker. There are no times for the floorpans but if you do those and the mounts together they're probably about 6hrs each. The rr corners are probably in the 4hr each range. 29hrs at whatever your bodyshop labour rate is and then paint time on top of that. Hope this helps.
Don W
WE HATE RUST!! Yes, that was a high quote and I would have given you the same one. There is no money to be made in rust. Collision repair is the meat and spuds of the autobody repair shops.
I had the same thing happen to me when I shopped around for some quotes. Some won't even quote it.. they just don't do it. Not worth their time I guess. Unless the truck is completly done, primed, ready to be painted most dont want to talk to you around here. The big thing in NJ is collision repair..
Thanks all! I think what I am going to do is purchase a little MIG welder (about $400.00 I hope) and give it a try. I've got some holes I need to fill first. Then I'll move on to the big stuff. I'll go to the junk yard and get some scrap to practice on first.
The last time I welded was in High School! Rod welders and cutting torches. Sooooo many years ago.
I'm not even really worried about the welding. It's the cutting and fitting that gives me the heebee jeebee's. Do you cut out the bad spot out a bit smaller than the replacement part or do you have to cut out the bad spot to perfectly match the replacement part? I can buy fenders and doors but replacing the cab corners, floor pans and rocker panels isn't going to be easy.
But, all-in-all it will be a learning experience. It's something that I've wanted to learn for a very very long time. And even the wife said she'd help me!!
The Welder idea is great. That is what I did when I wanted to get the rear fenders replaced in my 86 F150. What I did was cut the bad spots out about an inch smaller then the replacement. I also bought this tool that bends the bad spot in and then the replacement just fits right over top. From there you can weld or you can get some welding adhesive and pop rivit the piece in, grind the tops of the rivits and bondo it all smooth. If I were you I would weld just because I think it would be stronger.
Another idea would be to look for a whole new cab. Depending on what exactly you have you could get a cab for much cheaper then the ridiculous $6000 they quoted you. (By the way for new rear fenders to be welded in my 86 unpainted was $1300)
I think it's a good idea to buy a welder and do it yourself, that is what hobbys are all about. Check out autobodystore.com they have a great message forum like this site does. Also you may want to consider running an ad in your local paper for someone willing to either do the work or help you out. There are people out there that would be happy to share their knowledge as well as meet a new freind.
I agree with the idea of the welder and doing it yourself.I worked a little while in a bodyshop when I was a bit younger and even though it was a few years back that quote of yours seems ridiculous.Another option that might help would be to see if your local votec school has a class at night for bodywork like the one in my area in southeast missouri.For $6000 you can buy a really nice welder,take classes,buy all the parts,screw things up several times and still be money ahead.Not to speak badly about bodyshops,they definitely have their place,but the other reply was right.Most shops are only interested in insurance collision work,Good luck in what you decide and just do it!!!!!