I know there have been several discussions/posts on this topic, but since the search function is not working, can someone please tell me if/how I can remove the oil pan from my 2WD, F350, 460 with the engine in the truck.

Thanks

 

Start by jacking up the motor. Also, as a recommendation, spend a little more money for the single piece rubber gasket, the coark 4 piece is quite annoying to install and can leak much easier.

 

And be careful not to mangle the throttle or transmission linkage while you're jacking.

 

Any tiime you move an ingine around while it is still in the truck make certain that you make provisions for the fan to clear the shroud or you will break the shroud.

 

I don't recommend jacking the motor from the bottom; you should remove the hood and lift it with an engine hoist. Then insert pieces of 2x4 into the motor mounts so that you can set the motor back down and get your hoist out of the way.

 

All good ideas. I personally disconnected the transmission linkage by accident so no problems there I guess

 

This looks like the best thread for me to resurrect...

I am working on replacing the oil pan gasket in my 1975 F350 CC. In following the directions from the 1978 shop manual I have access to, I have done the following:

Disconnected the battery ground cable.
Disconnected the radiation shroud from the radiator and positioned it over the fan.
Removed all 4 bolts that connect the engine supports/brackets to the frame.
Placed jack under the front of the pan with a block of wood between the oil pan and jack and attempted to raise the engine.

All I am accomplishing is raising the entire truck. The motor does not break free from the frame. I tried to use my biggest pry bar to see if I could break free the motor from the insulators/brackets, but I was unable to do so. Has anyone else run into this or have any suggestions?

I should also mention that using an engine lift on the top of the motor resulted in the same problem of just lifting the entire truck on a previous attempt. However, on that attempt I only tried removing the 2 horizontal engine support bolts. The one on the passenger side hung up because it was on backwards and was still about an inch in its hole because it hit the starter.

I'll give things a shot with the hoist from on top tomorrow and see if my results are different this time around.

 

You might try undoing one side first, lift it a little then the other side, thats how I had to do mine, and the same way putting it back in.. Seems to work better by tilting it a bit, pulling the mount, then it comes free after unbolting the other side. Just wouldn't lift straight up..

 

And be careful not to mangle the throttle or transmission linkage while you're jacking.

 

I got my oil pan off tonight.

Additional items I did to make this easier (but not mentioned in the book) included:

Disconnect accelerator rod from carburetor
Remove transmission to carburetor linkage
Remove starter motor
Lift engine using engine lift attached to the front of the motor on the heads
Disconnect transmission cooler line at radiator for a brief minute when I finally pulled the pan off.

I tried the jack/block method first tonight but did not have enough clearance so in came the engine hoist. I took a few pictures of the clearance on the block method that I should be able to post up later.

 

On a 74 highboy 390, do you need to lift the block or can the oil pan just be dropped?

 

These pictures show the clearance after initial lift using the jack and wood blocks. Here's the gap between the cross member and the oil pan.



It's hard to tell the distance of the gap so here it is again with a little 2x4 piece.





The final picture shows one of the blocks in place on the passenger side.



Unfortunately I did not get any pictures of the setup with the engine hoist while taking it out. Once the hands got really dirty I didn't want to stop to wash up every few minutes for photos.

 

Your oil pan looks like it's dented pretty good. Is this from trying to jack it up? As I mention above (many years ago), I don't recommend jacking from the bottom. These engines are too heavy to try and lift with a tin pan.

Also, your original post mentions you had to remove the mounts from the frame - you should only have to split the motor mounts in half, leaving the towers on the frame and the brackets on the engine. This lets you put wood blocks in between. In fact, that's what your pictures looks like.

 

The dent was already there and yes I too am a fan of a fan of using a hoist instead of the jack on the pan. My hoist is out on loan right now . I got started with the jack while waiting for a neighbor to have his hoist free for me to borrow.

Now that I have it all apart it is pretty clear to me that I did not need to take all 4 bolts that connect the engine supports/brackets to the frame.

 

stock 76 F250, stock 16" split rims, 7.50 x 16 with 360

pulled oil pan sitting in the ground under the truck, no loosening mounts