When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It was almost noon and ~35*F out. I went to start the truck and it just cranked really fast. I did that three times and no start. On the fourth time, it turned over once and acted like it was going to start, but didn't. The fifth time it started. A large white/really light grey smoke cloud that smelled like fuel came out and then it cleared right up and no smoke.
When my truck had that problem, it turned out to be bad contacts on athe glow plug relay. Now may be a good time to do the Stancor 109 GPR relay. Also a good time to do the GPR LED mod. Try jumping the contacts on the GPR and starting. If it starts better the GPR is shot.
I put in the 902 about 4 months ago and its shot already..I asked on here before i bought the relay about the 15 V 903 relay and was told by these guy's it wouldn't work cause it has too high of a Volt rating....I should have listened to my own thoughts cause now I got to buy another relay..mouser wont warreny it..too much volts going to the relay..i had the 15V ordered but it was on back order so i went with the 902...my alt puts out 13+ volts..that's too much for a 12 V relay..even if it is not activated..it burned out the contacts on the hot side..the 15 V relay has all the same spec's as the 12 V only diff is it can hold 15 V..if ford did there homework right..they would have gone with the 15V relay..that way the stockers wouldnt give us too much trouble...
i dont know how come some guy's can run the 12V with out trouble and some need the 15V...just the nature of the beast i guess..or there trouble hasnt hit them yet..
Ron that sucks.. and it doesnt make any sense.. all of our relays are 12vlt rated.. So they are all subjected to the same 13.9 volt.. I can not think of a good reason why the Stancor would of had an issue..
Something is missing in the story.. There had to be an issue with the windings of the coil prior to your install..
Thinking of this more.. If you go to a 15 vlt coil, and feed it 12 vlt, you are doing more harm then good. The lower voltage will create a larger amp draw, ( not alot ) but the higher the amp, the more heat.. heat kills electrical..In turn, you will be decreasing the life of the coil..
Jason- If its still cold outside today, you could try to jump the GPR to see if its the problem. Put a large screwdriver (insulated handle of course) across the two main terminals (big bolt looking things) on the GPR for a minute or so, then try to start. If it boots up great, if not then replace the GPR. As a reminder the GPR relay is the brown on the backside of the engine compartment, it looks just like the air intake heater that is to the front side of the engine compartment.
my batts before key on is just about 13.5-14V..there good healthy batts..(950 CCA)alt keeps about 13.5V at idle to give 12V for the batts and to run the truck at the same time.Volts go up at around 1100 RPM's..cant remember the ##..when i turn on the key..that relay gets a 13.5- 14V wake up call then drops below the 12V mark...after GP's do there thing the relay will see 13.5V at idle all the time..in my book..its a 14V system even though the truck its self is 12V
that 15V relay has all the same specs as the 12V after key on..so when key comes on with the 15V it can take the 13.5V-14V wake up call and handle the 13.5 the alt is putting out at idle..the relay gets power strait from the batts...not a fuse box where all the other 12V items get there power from...after seeing a thread on this a while back..i found a lot of guy's have had short term use with the stansor 12V..not all..but a lot..they heat well but live a short life..they replaced with the 15V and going on 2 to 3 years with no trouble..i am going with the 15V this round..
Ron.. I was not questioning what you were doing.. I just dont get it.. IT SHOULDNT have been a problem.. But I am going to pay attention, so as when it is my turn, I do it once..
i know you wasnt and i wasnt taking it that way..just giving you my thoughts..ill re post on the other thread after i get the 15V relay..im not sure why some truck are botherd by it and others are not..i guess its like tuning..some truck luv it first shot..some takes another burn to get it right..
Jason- If its still cold outside today, you could try to jump the GPR to see if its the problem. Put a large screwdriver (insulated handle of course) across the two main terminals (big bolt looking things) on the GPR for a minute or so, then try to start. If it boots up great, if not then replace the GPR. As a reminder the GPR relay is the brown on the backside of the engine compartment, it looks just like the air intake heater that is to the front side of the engine compartment.
The stock GPR was replaced with a Stancor. Now everything works great. I took a good look at the stock one before I replaced it and it appeared to be slightly burned up on one of the large terminals.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.