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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 10:21 AM
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Help With Overloading Question

I am looking at several new Fifth Wheelers, and while doing my research I have read through many posts on this web site. What I have learned, is that to make an intelligent choice on a Fifth wheeler, and keep from exceeding safe weight parameters, I need to first know what my truck weighs.

So, has anyone who ACTUALLY owns a "2008 F-250 2X4 Super Duty Crew Cab Short Bed with the 6.4L PSD" weighed the truck with a full tank of fuel????

Reading through several forums on this web site, I seen weights of different year Ford trucks, the 4X4s, the long beds, 350s, etc., etc., and I've seen many opinions of what the weight should be, but I truly don't remember ever seeing an actual weight posted by someone who owns the above described vehicle. If someone has posted it, I apologize to them and ask them to please post it again for me. Thanks, FAECK <!-- / message --><!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_sig --><!-- END TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_sig -->
 
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 01:28 PM
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Your best bet is to weigh your truck. Although many trucks are similar, the weights vary due to options ordered, etc. A base curb weight that manufacturers and magazines use and publish, assume a base truck with few or no options. An example would be the Ford towing guide. The trailer tow ratings in the towing guide are for base trucks and are the maximum allowable weights for each truck in the model line.

Last time I weighed my truck, it was 7920 lbs. with me and a full tank of fuel. I've read other posts on here from people with similar trucks that weighed more and less than mine. Then there's the added weight of other accessories.

Point is, you will be better off weighing your truck. You won't be able to get an accurate weight to work with until you know the weight of your truck. Easy to do - lots of truck stops have scales, local quarries, feed and farm supply stores. Usually they don't charge much to do it either. I got mine weighed for $10.

FWIW, when I first got my truck, I weighed it with me and a full tank and it was 7790. I haven't gained 130 pounds but the truck did with some accessories.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 10:30 PM
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Hi Faeck, some thoughts from someone who has towed a fifth wheel for 8 years all over the country. The weight of your truck is not that important, it's gonna weigh between 7500 and 8000 lbs. The 5er you buy will work great with your truck unless you're looking at a real monster like a big toy hauler. These days almost all the 5ers are designed to be towed by an F250. They will have a gross weigh of 12500 or there abouts and a pin weight of 2300 t0 3000 lbs. It's hard to be sure about the weight without going to the scales with the 5er, which of course you can't do until after you buy it. You can get a good idea what it weighs though. somewhere inside one of the cabinets there will be a sticker with the weight of the unit as it was manufactured. That plus any dealer added options will be the total weight of the empty 5er. On the frame or up near the pin there is another sticker on the drivers side of the 5er. That one one will have the GVWR for the trailer. The difference between those is how much stuff you can comfortably haul in the trailer. If the GVWR is 12,500 or less you should have no trouble pulling the 5er with your truck. If it's more than that then you have to do some thinking. There's lots of stuff you can do that will help tow a heavy 5er. See my signature, mine is pretty heavy (GVWR 16500) but my truck handles it well and I just ordered 19.5 inch wheels and tires to make it even better. The number thats most important is how much of the trailer weight you will carry on the truck. The rear axle weight. Inside your truck on the door frame is another sticker. That one will tell you a couple things but let's just get the RAWR (rear axle weight rating). It will be somewhere around 6000 lbs and will be specific to the tires and their inflation. IE something like "RAWR 1765KG/6030 lbs with 265/75R16 @80PSI". Thats the manufacturers rating. Ive been looking for 8 years and haver never been able to find out exactly what it's purpose is but I suspect it's buried somewhere in some DOT regulation. Anyway, it seems a good thing to use for deciding how much you can haul. Your empty truck rear axle will weigh around 3000 lbs. That means you can comfortably put another 3000 lbs on the axle, so if the pin weight on your loaded 5er plus the gear and fuel in the rear of your truck doesn't exceed 3000 lbs you will probably be ok. Please keep in mind all this is ball park numbers but they will be close. You also will want to keep the truck level with the trailer hooked up. Over load springs or air bags will do that very well. Your truck will pull a lot but is limited in how much it will carry. I'm comfortable saying these trucks will handle 6500 to 7000 lbs on the rear axle if they have to, but you must make sure the tires are capable of handleing that weight and that you can keep the truck level. There is a lot of misinfiormation on line about this subject. Don't let is scare you. I have looked into the state laws in many states and none have any weight laws on NONCOMMERICAL vehicles. They have height and width, but no weight. The closest any come is sweveral which have laws that state the rear axle weight cannot exceed the weight stated on the tire sidewalls. That is a good sensible law and it is important that your weight does not exceed the ratings of the tires. They will blow out. Also, you need to know that with a short bed truck you will need a sliding 5th wheel hitch. No big deal unless you forget to slide it at the wrong time. Hope this helps and come on out and join us. It's a great way to tour. Stan
 
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 03:22 AM
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whats it weight

The above post has some very good info in it,but one thing I will say is don't trust that tag inside the trailor cabinet. That weight represends the trailors base weight!! not actual weight as built (Fiberglass siding / alumimum siding) extra batteries , artic kit, generater and what ever else was a add on. I only say this because I trusted the brochure and the tag only to find out later after losing one tire that it weight alot more. The trailor sales made good later,but I learned a good leason . Next time I when I buy another trailor to hook up to it and weight the truck and trailor first !!!
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 06:05 PM
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some states such as maryland indicate that total wt of truck and trailer cannot exceed 26K before you need a CDL.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 06:46 PM
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From: Georgia
Originally Posted by senix
some states such as maryland indicate that total wt of truck and trailer cannot exceed 26K before you need a CDL.
Well, i don't live in maryland but i was born there, in Laurel. So, hi. A CDL is a Commerical drivers license. It requires a physical exam, a drug test and a whole bunch of other stuff depending on what endorsements you want. I would be very suprised if they required that to operate a non-commerical vehicle. But, I could be wrong so i'll check it out.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 07:10 PM
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here is where I am getting my info from: Driver's License Class Codes
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 07:49 PM
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Some states do, but it really depends on the officer that stops you. Technically, anyone towing more than 10k is required to have a CDL, but most states interprite the rules to mean much different things, and most police forces only enforce it if you **** them off.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 08:08 PM
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From: Georgia
Originally Posted by senix
some states such as maryland indicate that total wt of truck and trailer cannot exceed 26K before you need a CDL.
Hi senix, i went to the maryland website. I'm not doing this stuff to show you up, it's just that it interest me and there is so much dis-information on a lot of web sites on this subject. marylands web site wasn't great but a couple things seem to be going on. It looks loke they are trying to go to some sort of endorsement for RVs on their "non-commerical" drivers license. They are very clear that a CDL is not required for an RV. They are also very clear that if you hold a current "class A" drivers liscense you can pretty well drive or tow anything you want except commerical of course. There also appear to be class B and class C non-commerical liscenses. I couldn't find how one gets a class A though. The drivers handbook didn't mention anything about them. They were also very clear that they honor liscenses from other states. Ilive in Georgia and mine clearly states that I'm authorized to drive an RV so i guess i'm OK in maryland. I also found the provisions for an RV learners permit and an RV driving test. It did not seem to be limited to 26,000lb plus but seemed to apply to all RVs. Again the site isn't great. Just type in maryland in IE and it will take you right there. Hope this helps anyone looking for info on this subject. Stan
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 08:14 PM
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From: Georgia
Originally Posted by senix
here is where I am getting my info from: Driver's License Class Codes
Senix, sorry, i posted mine before i saw this. You might want to look at this site again. I think you're looking at the part under "commerical". Scroll down a bit and look at non-commerical. Then look at class A.
 
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