Just cause I'm bored, I'll post my brag sheet.

I see the "pics of your 2wd thread" in which it says "the 4wd guys have their own pic thread" which I can't find

Here's my junk, not that anyone cares, but I'm bored tonight



1978 F250 Supercab 4x4.
460 on propane. Dual Vapourizers, dual mixers. 200 liters of underbed tanks with remote fillers. I just put it on new Trans-Dapt mounts cause the L&L mounts were both broken. Internally its stock as far as I know, I didn't do the conversion, I bought it this way.

C6 transmission. NP205 transfer case

Dana 60 front axle. 4.56 gearing. Sterling 10.25 rear axle.

6" lift all spring up front, blocks and added leaves in the rear. Dropped drag link and a steering block to correct steering angles.

285/75R16 Goodyear MTR's on 16x8 Eagle O58's.

The badges say Ranger XLT. Its fully loaded as far as I know, air conditioning, cruise control, delay wipers, cargo light, deluxe interior has fancy inlaid vinyl in the door panels and a vinyl headliner as well.

Sadly it doesn't have the factory storage box in the side of the bed.

by July before I tow the Jeep to the Rubicon, I'll have swapped out the C6 for a Dodge NV4500 five speed and possibly create a dual fuel system to run gas in an emergency when I can't buy propane in small town USA
--------------------------------------------------------------------

The Jeep is a 1992 YJ.
The motor is a stock 1993 Mustang 5.0 HO. Flowtech headers, custom exhaust into a flowmaster muffler.

Transmission NP435, and NP205 transfer case.

Front axle is a narrowed high pinion Dana 44 with an ARB Air Locker and 4.88 gears, the rear is a 31 spline Ford 9" with a Detroit locker.

Custom rollcage, Corbeau Baja SS seats. RCI five point harnesses. Warn 8274 up front. Viair 350C air compressor, three gallon air tank mounted underneath.

Suspension is stock type Jeep leafs mounted over the axles, a traction bar added to control rear axle wrap.

Tires are 38.5x14.5 Super Swamper SX's.

By the Rubicon Trip thats planned for July, I'll have a dual transfer case setup installed using NP203 parts and custom adapters, a tire carrier on the back, and a custom safari top replacing the full soft top that it has now.
------------------------------------------------------------------
My other truck, yeah I know it belongs in the next forum



1969 Ford F100 Ranger.
Engine is a 302 built for lots of bottom end torque and no horsepower. It runs the old 80's ford Central Fuel Injection throttle body system. Cheap flowtech headers. A Chevrolet alternator.

Transmision is an NP435. Transfer case is a married NP205 replacing the original Dana 21 single speed.

Front axle is a 78/79 High pinion Dana 44 with disk brakes. Rear is a mid 70's Ford 9" replacing the original narrower Ford 9". It still has the original drum brakes in the rear.

Power steering has been swapped in using a late 70's F150/Bronco steering box and pump. Steering linkage is the late model tie rod end because its heavier than the original and a custom built drag link to get an adjustable length to accomodate the lift. A dropped pitman arm is used and the track bar mount has been lengthened to match the angles. A Superlift adjustable track bar is used to match lengths.

Lift comes from Skyjacker 9" lift springs and lowering the coil buckets 3.5" up front, and custom leaf springs and a shackle flip in the rear.

Tires in the picture are 38.5x14.5-15 Super Swamper SX's on 15x10 Chrome modulars

I built this truck about ten years ago, everything at that time was new or rebuilt, anything that could be upgraded, was upgraded. Its unfortunate that its now showing its age, the body filler is falling out, the body is rusting at all the holes for the chrome trim, and the cab mounts are collapsing, again.

 

I lovem, that red 69 is totally B@d A$$. One thing I'll say is I hate that CFI fuel injection, I had that on my 81 LTD, and it was the worse piece I have ever seen or worked on, I guess you have had better luck on it though. That 78 is cool too, what kinda miliage are ya gettin with the propane?

 

theres really nothing wrong with the CFI, once I had a meldown of the computer, but it was only because of a low voltage situation causing high resistance.

Its the simplest fuel injection system around, the only inputs are the throttle position sensor, map sensor, coolant temperature sensor, oxygen sensor, and ambient air temperature sensor. Theres no mass air flow, crank position, knock sensors, or anything else that cares about cam profile or displacement.

After figuring out that I only needed to hook up about four wires, I fired the truck up on it with the computer hanging over the fender and power wires twisted together, and it fired on the first try. After that it took me an hour to get everything installed and routed correctly, and I have done no maintenance on it ever since, that was maybe six years ago... It might be time for some spark plugs or something though, my mileage has dropped a little bit lately

It was the simplest way to get rid of a carb for me. With only the in cab gas tank, I was able to save on a fuel pump. Normally they use a pusher pump in the tank to get it to the pressure pump mounted on the framerail. since my tank is in the cab its simply gravity feeding to the pressure pump I mounted in the framerail.

There are some quirks that I haven't got around to fixing yet. The stock 69 gas tank doesnt vent, and with the fuel return line I had to add, there is a lot of aeration in the fuel tank that builds pressure. On hot days I can hear the tank getting bigger and I have to crack the gas cap to vent it once in a while if I'm driving for a while. The other problem is the lack of baffles in the tank, so when it gets low on fuel the fuel gets away from the pickup tube around corners or when off camber off road, and the engine stalls cause it runs out of fuel. With a carb this was never a problem because you always still had a float bowl full of fuel to run the engine until the truck levels out. I've been stuck in a few mudholes because I was at too much of an angle to get fuel to the pickup tube
Easy fixes, I'll add a half gallon reservoir tank under the cab, and I have the tank vent assembly and charcoal cannister out of a later model truck waiting to be installed.

As for the propane, I'm not really sure about my mileage, I keep track of my vehicles in cost per km and I drive whatever is most cost effective. Last summer when propane was 50 cents a liter it was actually cheaper to drive the 460 powered propane truck than it was to drive my stock 4 cylinder Jeep YJ. I believe I got about 8.5 mpg between Langley BC and Naches Washington last July when I went to the PNW4WDA event, thats about equivalent to a gas truck with the same load.

In general with the propane powered vehicles we have its about ten percent worse mileage, but propane costs about thirty percent less than gasoline.

 

Cool trucks and cool thread! :)
The bump-side is my favorite looking pickup ever made. :)

The first thing I thought when I saw the '79 was wanting to re-arch your rear
overload leaves. LOL :) Doesn't do anything other than make the suspension
stop going down at a certain spot and make it less "bucky" when it's empty.
One of my favorite modifications.

Daggit this isn't a very good picture...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/F100-9inch.jpg
See how the overload leaf is ~1/2" lower than the rest of the spring pack?
It's about 3/4" lower on the front end.

Take the two out get a 16 or 20 pound sledge hammer and bend -one- of
them to be how you want it to be and use the other as an example of how
it used to be. On the F100 in my picture... I'd bend the rear end up about
3/4" and the front end up about an inch. Then bend the other to match it.

On my '75 F150 I re-arched the whole leaf pack and a 10 pound sledge
worked fine on the 5/16" leaves but the 5/8" thick overloads they wouldn't
budge! LOL :) Found a real nice old 16 pound head at the used tool store
(Kent's Tools) for cheap and came home and put a handle in it. ;)
The overloads "moved" under that baby. ;)

Alvin in AZ (retired signal-ape but did my share as a gandy dancer too)

 

I knew I'd get comments on the rear springs.

normally it doesn't sit that low. It sits level with the camper on it and the trailer equalizer bars neutralize the tongue weight

but in the picture I didn't have enough load on the equalizer bars as we were in a hurry to get back to pavement and cellphone service

there are better pictures, on my old hard drive.

So its okay the way it is, although I do have a brand new set here waiting to go to the spring shop for some aditional leafs so I can get rid of one of the lift blocks.

 

Hmm.. Thats cool about the propane though. The CFI on the otherhand I had a ton of problems with the one I had on my 81 LTD. I had to replace alot of stuff, and it never helped, eventually it got to where it would only accelarate to 35mph, if you tried to go faster it would stall out. I fixed the problem the easy way, I converted it to carb with edelbrock and MSD parts, best thing I ever did. Oh, my CFI was older than yours as it had the magnetic crank sensor mounted off the to the side of the crank. My 84 Lincoln is also CFI but it has the larger distributor which has the sensor built in. The 81 distributor has nothing in it but the rotor. My LTDs computer also burnt up as well. From what I know the older one is EEC 3 and the other one is the EEC 4, you probably have the EEC 4, as the EEC 3 was only for a couple of years and wasn't a very good system. The EEC 4(like in my 84 Lincoln) lasted till they made the EFI system and is much better.

 

yep I have the EECIV, not the 3

unfortunately I still have the Thick Film Ignition, I don't know why there was never a class action lawsuit over that one lol

 

Yeah, the EEC 4 is much better. Its that 3 system I hate. What about the Thick Film ignition, thats something I haven't heard much on. I now would like to know as I don't want my Town Car in jeopardy.

 

actually there isnt really much wrong with them. Its improper installation thats the problem. The module on the side of the distributor burns out on a regular basis, but when you do a test on it it seems to be fine.

The problem is that it needs the thermal paste stuff in between the module and the distributor for proper heat dissipation, just like the laptop computer processor needs the thermal paste between the processor and the heat sink.

Often these things get removed and reinstalled without any mastic being added, so the new one overheats and craps out too

or you get corrosion between the original module and the distributor which insulates and wont let the heat dissipate

theres also the grey versus black TFI module as well.

its actually pretty reliable, but most driveability problems can be traced to the ignition if its got the TFI

 

thanks for the info, learn sumptain new everyday.

 

A friend of mine built a stock haulin trailer using stuff he had and so put a -big
ol' stack- of pickup leaf springs on it on both sides. :) Like 5 inches of 'em. :)

The nick name for the trailer is the "tip over" after it ended up on its side right
after he built it. No more trouble with that trailer after he switched to -real-
truck and/or trailer springs, it's one of the best goose neck trailers around
now, but the name stuck tho. ;)

YMMV on adding leaves, you can add all the leaves you want to. LOL :)

Back when I was in my early 20's I experimented with adding leaves myself.
(not on my pickup) I didn't like the results, too mushy and as soon as I saw
my buddy's trailer I told 'im "the springs aren't going to work stacked up like
that they are still too flimsy for that job, get some -real- trailer springs or
-real truck- springs those are -light truck- springs and it won't work".
"spring rate is too low"

I had rocked the trailer side to side and then told him all that.

Anyway since then I realized the extra thick overload leaf is for more than
just one thing, it also suddenly boosts the spring rate and helps keep the light
duty truck upright as if it had -real- truck springs on it. ;)

Add a bunch of leaves and drive it without problems for a hundred years in
good health and prove me wrong. ;)

Alvin in AZ

 

I did also mention "spring shop"

I'm not going to blindly add three inches of leafs. If I was going to do that, why would I bother starting with a brand new set of springs

I'm a four wheeler, and I work on motorhomes for a living, I know a thing or two about making springs carry a load and flex comfortably.

Thanks for the vote of confidence :Thumbup:

 

You're certainly welcome for that, sorry I didn't notice your expertise in the picture. ;)
Are you still bored tho? Just irritated? LOL :)

Alvin in AZ

 

I suppose I should be working instead of bored. I'm bored of work today though. Bodywork today, bleah I hate bodywork. Repairing a fiberglass fender skirt that is missing half of it. I wish these people would pick up the pieces after they smash them.

 

wow my photo hosting service likes to randomly change album numbers so my first post has a photo from somebody else's album now and I'm not allowed to edit my posts yet

fun fun fun

heres the original