I have a typical 1966 ford f-250. The present bed has holes in it. At some point I will replace the sheet metal, would like to ask what type of torch is required for this application. I'm sure spot welding is an option, but I think an actual weld would be more sutable.

I.e. What type of metal is required to make the joint.

I.e. Is this the type of job that can be accomplished via a pair of liter cylinders, oxy-acedline(sp), or would this be too cold to melt the joining materal?

Looking for cost effective as my welding needs are quite limited to this application.

 

If the bed has a lot of rust, you would be better off to find another bed. The way the beds are put together makes it difficult to replace sheet metal. Look at the cross pieces that rest on the frame. There are a lot of spot welds to the bottom of the bed. I would use mig for minor repairs.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 06-May-02 AT 05:52 AM (EST)]This is one job I've done, and I can tell you that complete floor replacement is a bear of a job. It can be done, but it is a BIG job. If the outside of your bed is in great shape this much work might be worth it, but if you have lots of damage or rust, you'de be better off finding a nice western bed. There are hundreds of spot welds that must be carefully blown out and then once the complete floor is cut out you'll have to go back with an electric grinder and finish off the job to make the supports nice and smooth. You can replace the ribbed floor with sheet metal IF you slightly raise the height of the support ribs. (the center of each support is lower to accomidate the ribs in the bed floor. You can also just replace the flooring with a factory Ford panel, provided you can find one. Last one I saw for a 64-66 8 ft. (NOS) at a swap was $600! The later model trucks (up to 96 anyway) have the same size panels, BUT the ribs are shaped differently and the hold down holes are different.The only reason I replaced mine was due to all the damage on the floor. It had some rust at the front and it was all beat to hell. Take a look in my gallery, I've posted a couple of pix there that may help.Good luck, Phil
Oh, and use a MIG welder. Definitely the easiest way to go.

 

>This is one job I've done, and I can tell you that complete
>floor replacement is a bear of a job. It can be done, but it
>is a BIG job. If the outside of your bed is in great shape
>this much work might be worth it, but if you have lots of
>damage or rust, you'de be better off finding a nice western
>bed. There are hundreds of spot welds that must be carefully
>blown out and then once the complete floor is cut out you'll
>have to go back with an electric grinder and finish off the
>job to make the supports nice and smooth. You can replace
>the ribbed floor with sheet metal IF you slightly raise the
>height of the support ribs. (the center of each support is
>lower to accomidate the ribs in the bed floor. You can also
>just replace the flooring with a factory Ford panel,
>provided you can find one. Last one I saw for a 64-66 8 ft.
>(NOS) at a swap was $600! The later model trucks (up to 96
>anyway) have the same size panels, BUT the ribs are shaped
>differently and the hold down holes are different.The only
>reason I replaced mine was due to all the damage on the
>floor. It had some rust at the front and it was all beat to
>hell. Take a look in my gallery, I've posted a couple of pix
>there that may help.Good luck, Phil
> Oh, and use a MIG welder. Definitely the easiest way to
>go.
>

I have a pair of angle grinders, one 4.25 inch, one 9 inch, snould actually be the ticket to finish up the removal of the old metal. Also one belt sander, and if need be an industral bandsaw by carolina, saw portion is the width of the of my ford fender. Don't have much use for it, though it was good for chopping up toyota engines I had to dispose of, ideal for cutting bolts that need to be just that right size without disturbing the threads. You usual run of the mill table saw ofcorse. Torches I don't have, excepting your stanard propane 1l cylinder, and a hand held butane.

I've never worked with tig or mig, only your typical torch once or twice, and typical propane / butane torch for soldering. Mostly eletronics. spot welding even less so. Never sheet metal though

[regarding 1966 ford f-250]
I'd describe the outside of the bed as being in fair condition. By fair we are talking about the usual scratches, couple of small dents, but on the whole the outside is reasonably rust free. The major rust spots are as follows.

[wheelwell section]
Forward driverside [above saddle tank] rusted though not connected in 50% of it's radious. Replace!
Forward passanger [also above saddle tank] holy rusted metal
Rear driver, rusted
rear passanger, rusted with rust dimple.

[primary bed between wheel wells]

Foward [cab side] rusted though along the cross bar.
Rear [tale gate side] rusty no paint along the top of the riges, paint scratches in the vallies.

[wheel wells]
heavly scrachted with rust, but solid

Forward bed wall [behind the cab]
rust hole, folled by deep scraches, some with rust, some without.

[side walls]
Rails. Recently wire brushed and primed. many pits top side, easily filled with paint and/or small amounts of body filler, rust free now and solid.
Inside sides. heavy superficial rust, wire brushable.
outside sides. Scratched in spots, mostly painted, no rust holes.

Personal judgement. I'm sure better options exist for a restore.. and actually I would seriously consider a replacement bed of the same style, depending on cost. However, the fair condition of the sides can easily be brought up to top notch, rust free, via some hammering in easily accesible spots.


Things I don't have:

Torch
Resource for the ribbed metal.

 

Well, if you decide to replace the floor you're going to need an Oxy/acetelene torch to cut the old one out. The only other way to get at all those HUNDREDS of spot welds is with a spot weld drill bit, or even a regular drill bit. But either way that's a bunch of drilling. To put the new metal back in, ( either stock or flat ) the MIG welder is hard to beat. The propane torch is good for taking off undercoating, but that's about it on a job like this. You'll put those grinders to use a lot to.