Basic Prep Questions
TONY
>a few answers. First of all, Sanding: Can someone give me
>a rundown on hand sanding as far as grit of paper needed.
I went down to 320 for the final sanding before primer then about the same or 400 on the primer.
> I will probably take it all down to metal. Then I hear I will
>have to use etching primer...What is it?
Etching primer has an acid in it, I'd pass on the etching primer and use a two part epoxy primer, then a filler primer IF needed to fill scratches
>Is a spray bomb just as good as a gun when it comes to priming?
Not even close! use the spray bomb for two things, quick temp coverage or guide coat, and second is for your lawn mower.
Some basics, you don't need to go to bare metal unless you want to or have some rust concerns. Once you have bare metal, it needs to be kept from weather and should be sprayed soon after (even if with just a spray bomb) or treat with phophoric acid then epoxy primer.
you can use filler over epoxy primer, just scratch it good with 25 to 40 grit and use a sharp scratcher for good adheasion. You can wet sand epoxy primer and you should go to about 320~400. Some scratches will be covered with the paint but only in the 220 or finer grit and only if you do a 'wet' coat
Painting tips:
spray the edges first to allow for extra paint on the edges where the buffer usually burns thru. Allow 20 min to 2 hours between coats (depending on paint) and spray as many coats as you can because you'll probably wet sand 1/2 of it off later. After the paint has dried for about two days to a week, you can wet sand and compound the polish.
If you make a mistake in painting, let it dry and apply more paint to the area so that you have enough material to wet sand off later. I had great luck using extra thinner near the end of the job for a good finish as it'll "flow out" nicer.
Good luck.



