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Ok, heres the situation, I am putting together a shop/ delivery truck out of a
1978 Ford F-250 Camper Special, I am currently doing body work to the cab and the bed will get tossed and replaced with a new flatbed after the cab is painted.
Before I proceed with painting the cab and after the bed has been removed I want to clean up the rear frame rails and paint them black because they will be visible with a flat bed, I don't need to do anything fancy, I planned on pressure washing everything and the taking a big wire wheel on a grinder to clean up the frame rails.
What then? I don't want to spend a lot of money on this part of the poject, I have seen rustoleum rusty metal primer mentioned here before, with a topcoat of rustoleum, sound like a good idea? I also considered using a good equipment enamel from the farm store with some hardener mixed in to make it a little more durable, I am open to any ideas you guys have, what has worked for you all in the past?
I just did the exact same job on my 73' F-100. I covered the cab in plastic, took off the rear wheels and sandblasted everything. Be careful of the filler hose to the gas tank and the rubber brake lines.
Don't shoot in under the brake drum either. I used spray can rust prohibitive primer and semi-gloss black. Get the cans that have the fan shape spray pattern. It looks great and was very inexpensive, 3 cans primer and 3 cans paint.
Check with a good parts store for advise, NAPA has helped me alot.
I know you've probably seen this mentioned in every other post in this forum, but I guess it's mentioned for a reason..... POR-15! I wire-wheeled the frame on my Bronco, shot it with Extend (the spray-on or brush-on rust converter), and then top coated with POR-15. While the POR-15 was still tacky (good luck getting anything to adhere to it after it dries), I fogged on Rust Oleum Rusty Metal Primer, and then top coated with Rust Oleum Exterior Enamel. A few steps, yes, but not really that expensive in terms of dollars. It has given me a tough-as-nails coat that has kept its appearance for the past two years, and counting, though. The only reason to top coat the POR-15 is that it reportedly discolors with exposure to UV light...... no harmful effects to the paint, just cosmetic.
POR-15 also makes a product called topcoat that covers the por 15 paint. Also they make a product that basically becomes a primer over por-15 for any type of paint or color you want. This is probably the best direction to go because of the benefits of por-15 and any paint.
DIYer's are discovering Zero Rust is an easy to use, inexpensive and yet effective rust control coating. Aerosols or bulk, 2000+ hour Salt Spray Cabinet test results, No Isocyanates (which moisture cured urethanes DO contain) easy repairability if necessary and you can topcoat with your finish coat if you want to.
For those interested, take a look at this test comparison by a professional 30 year body/paint man:
http://zerorust.com/aubodystorepics.htm While it may not be the most scientific testing procedure in existence, it does show some interesting results.
HTH
WK Irish
See ya' on the net at www.zerorust.com
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