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Old Jul 5, 2000 | 10:52 AM
  #1  
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Cab Replacement

the cab on my 72 f-100 has a lot of rust on it, i am going to replace all teh fenders and hood and all that, but liek teh floorboards and the wheel wells, the back corners,they are all rused out, shoud i
1. take the cab off, junk it and get a new one
2. take teh cab off and repair it
3. leave teh cab on and repair it
i want there to be no rust left on it, but i want to do the easiest thing
Thanks, Coonboy
 
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Old Jul 6, 2000 | 05:57 AM
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Cab Replacement

It depends do you know how to mig weld and has time to spend on it? If so I would just leave the cab on the frame an weld the replacement panels on
I dont know about getting a new cab(dont know if you can even get them)
 
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Old Jul 25, 2000 | 08:14 PM
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Cab Replacement

As in anything to do with cars and trucks,it all
comes down to money vs. time. a non rusty cab would
be faster and cost more,and repairing the existing
cab would take longer but would be cheaper in the long run. I would go the new cab route as it removes all the problems you have now,and you can
clean it up and undercoat it before you put it back
on the frame.Save up for it ,you'll be happier with
the results.
 
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Old May 31, 2002 | 08:30 AM
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Cab Replacement

Hi guys
I am new to this site and by just reading through the forums have learnt a lot about these F250 beauties. I live in South Africa and own three of them, all imported from the USA or Canada.As these trucks are not readily available here,I normally strugle to get the correct info and/or parts locally.My recently bought truck is a 1990 F250 Regular Cab 7,3 diesel with a ZF transmission.Due to family requirements,I need to replace the existing cab with a crew cab. Is such a replacement possible,having regard to inter alia the different chassis dimentions,and ,if so,where can I start searching for such a cab?Keep up the good work.
 
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Old May 31, 2002 | 11:20 AM
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Cab Replacement

The easiest way is to get a new cab. I bough a replacement cab and then replaced it also. It had no rust but was dented all over. I ended up buying another cab that had not dents or visible rust. When I started taking the undercoating off the bottom I had rust under the undercoating which required cutting out some of the floor. Luckily I still had the first cab. With practice and a lot of time I was able to weld the patch panels and grind them flush so that no body filler was needed to hide them. It was not necessary in the location that they were in but I was practicing for panels that would matter.

67-72 cabs are very available out west and can be shipped truck freight for about $50 a hundred pounds. The cab weight is about 300 lbs. Let me know if your interested and I could start looking.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 09:00 AM
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Cab Replacement

Brian,

Where are you located out West? I would be interested in a cab or doors for a '79 pick-up. Have any good leads?
Thanks!

Craig
 
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 09:38 AM
  #7  
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Cab Replacement

Hi Brian
I do not think the 67-72 cabs are compatible with the body shape of my 1990 model. I believe I will have to look for a crew cab between approximately 1980-1994.How difficult will it be to fit the crew cab on the shorter single cab chassis?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 11:23 AM
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Cab Replacement

Putting a crew cab on a regular frame would probably mean going to a short bed. Although I don't know how difficult it is.

I live near San Jose California and there are a lot of mid 70's trucks in the junk yard. The 80's trucks are starting to be the predominat trucks in the wrecking yards lately.

If your interested in me looking for parts contact me off list at Bkoss@mail.arc.nasa.gov

Right know I don't have a truck since mine is disassembled so getting large parts i.e. Cabs is difficult for me until probably Sept/October (hopefully)

Brian
 
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Old Jun 4, 2002 | 07:44 AM
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