Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Clutch won't disengage

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 03-03-2009, 08:24 AM
Skydmark1's Avatar
Skydmark1
Skydmark1 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Littleton, NH
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Clutch won't disengage

Hey everyone, just as I was SUPPOSED to be leaving for work this morning, I had a problem. I went out to start my truck because it was very cold last night (coldest it's been since I bought the truck last week) and I let it warm up for 5 min. or so. When I went back out to leave I pushed the clutch in and it stayed to the floor, so I manually pulled it back up, pumped it a few times to try it again. Can't get it into to gear so obviously the clutch wasn't disengaging. I jumped out checked the fluid, it was low. I put some fluid in, same problem. Also the pedal is very weak, waaay to easy to push in.

What am I looking at here? I'm sort of assuming it's one of three things, Master, Slave, or contaminated fluid (maybe water in it and the cold temp froze it?)

Any help would be appreciated....I really hope I don't have to drop the transmission on this thing, I just got it and don't have the time or tools so I'd have to shell out the cash.

Thanks in advance!


Update - just went out to look at it again and the cap on the master clutch cylinder turns very easy with no effort at all from stop to stop. Should it be tighter than that? Perhaps it's not holding pressure?
 

Last edited by Skydmark1; 03-03-2009 at 08:31 AM. Reason: new info
  #2  
Old 03-03-2009, 09:35 AM
Lazy K's Avatar
Lazy K
Lazy K is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,402
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
There have posts similar to yours over the past few months. Very cold nights seem to be a common theme.
From what I remember the solution was to bleed the clutch system. The old fluid would automatically replaced when bleeding, maybe that has something to do with it.
Hope this helps.
 
  #3  
Old 03-03-2009, 10:02 AM
str8dogg's Avatar
str8dogg
str8dogg is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
YES, I would try bleeding first. Since you mentioned the ease of the Master cylinder cap, maybe moistrure got in there. Do you have a diaphram in the reservoir, if not, you may need to get one. Check around the Master and slave cylinders for leaks. It may or may not be obvious. If you don't see anything that may be good. Assuming the master or slave hasn't been touched since you got it and I don't know the year (it doesn't matter anyways) they may need to be replaced. BUT before you do, drain the old fluid out, mainly by opening up the slave bleeder screw and let the fluid flow out. When the fluid gets low in the reservuoir refill with good fluid. Let it get ALMOST empty, but not TOTALLY empty before refilling. IF you let it get totally emplty you will introduce more air, which we want to avoid. A partner would help here. Once you refill, let it get pretty low as well to ensure that you only have fresh fluid in the system, then top off. Once the fluid is fresh, start the bleeding process, make sure the reservoir doesn't empty. If the pump doesn't harden up, then you have a cylinder problem. The slave is usually the first culprit, since it is the one that activates the clutch. If you have a internal slave, you probably already know you will need to drop the tranny. There aren't any special tools required besides a tranny jack. But I didn't use one on mine, I used regular floor jack. If you could, while replacing the slave replace the master as well. I even went as far as the hydraulic line as well. Also, if you can bench bleed the slave, and master before you put then in, that would save you a lot of time. Hope this helps.
 
  #4  
Old 03-03-2009, 12:15 PM
HrdDrv's Avatar
HrdDrv
HrdDrv is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
My 'Lil Raven doesn't like the cold, either, but I am patient, and let 'er warm up and all turns normal with the shifting/clutch operation. (It was so cold this morning, my turn signals wouldn't work till it warmed up to temp.)
 
  #5  
Old 03-03-2009, 04:21 PM
Skydmark1's Avatar
Skydmark1
Skydmark1 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Littleton, NH
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sorry everyone, in my haste this morning I forgot to tell you the truck, not that it matters much at this point but it's a 95 F150 with 4.9L and 5spd. I have thursday off and it's supposed to warm up a bit over the next couple days so I'll see what happens, and maybe try bleeding the system. The master does have the diaphram, and I noticed no leaks around or near the master. The old fluid in it was very murky though. Thanks for all the help so far
 
  #6  
Old 12-08-2009, 12:44 AM
AHANBYF150's Avatar
AHANBYF150
AHANBYF150 is offline
Freshman User
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
what was the outcome of your troubles or houw'd you fix it? i had the same problem this morning and i have the same year truck, motor, and tranny..
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Caleb Petersen
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
19
08-29-2019 05:55 AM
Fordbronco69
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
5
12-13-2012 07:54 PM
dyingtolive
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
15
03-29-2012 11:56 PM
fordparts76
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
4
02-25-2011 10:40 PM
Wild Karrde
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
4
08-13-2007 10:05 AM



Quick Reply: Clutch won't disengage



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:36 AM.