heating problem
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heating problem
Hey there guys, got a small problem here and hopefully you can help me figure this out.
The Blower motor seems to only have one speed, High Yet high isn't high it's more of a medium, so i go to researching on the internet, and after reading a few pages, everyone said its the blower motor its self, OR its the Switch on the Panel.
So i pulled the blower motor out and had a buddy of mine test it, and it passed just fine, then i went down to the local junkyard and snagged a switch to see if that was it and still no avail.
Then one night on my way home, cruising down the road Lights on, Listening to music i reach over and turn my heater on, and take a glance at my volts, the meter was reading about 9.5 which is no where near normal if i am correct? so do you think this could be a short? and how would i go about finding this? or would it just be easier to just hook up a toggle switch to bypass everything else?
Thanks in advance
D Rogers
The Blower motor seems to only have one speed, High Yet high isn't high it's more of a medium, so i go to researching on the internet, and after reading a few pages, everyone said its the blower motor its self, OR its the Switch on the Panel.
So i pulled the blower motor out and had a buddy of mine test it, and it passed just fine, then i went down to the local junkyard and snagged a switch to see if that was it and still no avail.
Then one night on my way home, cruising down the road Lights on, Listening to music i reach over and turn my heater on, and take a glance at my volts, the meter was reading about 9.5 which is no where near normal if i am correct? so do you think this could be a short? and how would i go about finding this? or would it just be easier to just hook up a toggle switch to bypass everything else?
Thanks in advance
D Rogers
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Your blower motor has a resistor 'network' tied in. Should be somewhere on the engine bay side of the blower box. The switch switches on the ground side of the circuit, IIRC. You probably have a bad resistor 'network'.
As far as the volts situation, I would check your battery and alternator thoroughly. Sounds like the alternator may not be putting out enough juice or you have a bad grounding strap or bad connection somewhere.
As far as the volts situation, I would check your battery and alternator thoroughly. Sounds like the alternator may not be putting out enough juice or you have a bad grounding strap or bad connection somewhere.
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Thank you for the response Kernal.
I have taken the resistor out, any clue where i may find one?
Also in my previous post about the volt issue it only drops like that after i turn the heater on, but resumes normal if i leave the heater off...
I have taken the resistor out, any clue where i may find one?
Also in my previous post about the volt issue it only drops like that after i turn the heater on, but resumes normal if i leave the heater off...
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Odd then. One of the main symptoms of a blown out resistor pack for the blower motor would be the heat only works on "High" (where it's bypassed via the switch for the resistors to knock down the voltage going to the motor)
Normally its caused by age, or crap build up that causes it to overheat and blow out.
It might be broken off in a spot you can't see it. If you're good with a multimeter we could probably walk you through basic tests. However it's also easier to just hit the salvage yard and snag up a used one. (basic test I like...quick and dirty...swap and see what it does LOL)
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Normally its caused by age, or crap build up that causes it to overheat and blow out.
It might be broken off in a spot you can't see it. If you're good with a multimeter we could probably walk you through basic tests. However it's also easier to just hit the salvage yard and snag up a used one. (basic test I like...quick and dirty...swap and see what it does LOL)
S-
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Sidebar note: I'd strongly recommend running the truck to a local shop/parts house that can do a battery and charging test. Yes a duff ground can really screw with the alternators ability to keep up with things. But if the alternator itself is on the way out? (as in..works fine under a small load...but buckles under a heavy load) That would also cause problems such as this. (you can turn the heater on ours...and watch the volt meter 'step down' according to the speed we select) (it passed the charging test...but doesn't like to be under heavy load at idle)
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Thanks man will hit the Junkyard this weekend, one thing i did notice was a bit of leaves and pine needles right next to where the resistor sits on the inside of the box.
also looks like the coil-spring things on the resistor is just faded, like sun faded paint.
Oh well will know more this weekend.
and while i have you here maybe you can help me with another issue.
I have this knock, its only only acceleration its not to loud, more of a tick.
All fluids are at the appropriate levels, recently did a tune up ( spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pvc valve, air filter , ect. )
also looks like the coil-spring things on the resistor is just faded, like sun faded paint.
Oh well will know more this weekend.
and while i have you here maybe you can help me with another issue.
I have this knock, its only only acceleration its not to loud, more of a tick.
All fluids are at the appropriate levels, recently did a tune up ( spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pvc valve, air filter , ect. )
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Could be a few things. (and hopefully the less expensive things LOL)
Lifter tick comes to mind....
Injector tick also comes to mind.. (yeah...you can hear the injectors 'click' each time they are energized..it's odd to listen to)
Might be worth while to pick up a cheap'o deluxe Mechanic's Stethoscope. Got ours from Harbor Freight tools for a couple of bucks on sale. Comes with an extension that helps to get into deep areas. If you have a 'helper' available to hit the gas while probing the general areas of the engine? You might pinpoint it better. Just use caution around the moving parts of course.
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Lifter tick comes to mind....
Injector tick also comes to mind.. (yeah...you can hear the injectors 'click' each time they are energized..it's odd to listen to)
Might be worth while to pick up a cheap'o deluxe Mechanic's Stethoscope. Got ours from Harbor Freight tools for a couple of bucks on sale. Comes with an extension that helps to get into deep areas. If you have a 'helper' available to hit the gas while probing the general areas of the engine? You might pinpoint it better. Just use caution around the moving parts of course.
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"Lifter Tick" That is what my buddy said, is that crucial to fix? or can it wait until the weather gets a little nicer?
and i do believe i have a mechanics Stethoscope lying around somewhere ill have to take a listen to the motor.
Also this truck was shipped overseas a few times, to germany , france , a few other places, the last owners were military, and the truck has a little over 300+k? give or take some miles.
The truck was free 100% gifted to me, they paid for the transfer the emission the tabs even the first 6 months of insurance lol!
Like i said Military family, i help them out about 6 days a month moving stuff around the house, yard work, handy work, ect.
and i do believe i have a mechanics Stethoscope lying around somewhere ill have to take a listen to the motor.
Also this truck was shipped overseas a few times, to germany , france , a few other places, the last owners were military, and the truck has a little over 300+k? give or take some miles.
The truck was free 100% gifted to me, they paid for the transfer the emission the tabs even the first 6 months of insurance lol!
Like i said Military family, i help them out about 6 days a month moving stuff around the house, yard work, handy work, ect.
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Depending on several issues...it can be either a warning sign, or just annoying as heck. If you have the 2.9 V6 there has been a lot of talk on the forum regarding oil delivery issues. The 2.9 has (this might also apply to the 2.8, never worked on one so I'm not sure) a few design "issues" that over time, can create an oil starvation issue with the cam/lifter area.
Might be a good idea to at the very least change the oil to a decent make/grade for your area...and I'd strongly suggest using a high quality oil filter. (I'm NOT a fan of Fram filters...) I've had good luck with Motorcraft, Napa Gold (made by Wix). Plenty to choose from, But oil filters is one area that is touchy with a lot of people. It might also help to install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on the engine to get a true pressure reading and see what it's doing in that respect.
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Might be a good idea to at the very least change the oil to a decent make/grade for your area...and I'd strongly suggest using a high quality oil filter. (I'm NOT a fan of Fram filters...) I've had good luck with Motorcraft, Napa Gold (made by Wix). Plenty to choose from, But oil filters is one area that is touchy with a lot of people. It might also help to install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on the engine to get a true pressure reading and see what it's doing in that respect.
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Didn't read too closely - but the mention of debris inside the blower housing, could be drawing a load while the fan motor is running that would possibly cause the drop in voltage - or moisture in the fan motor itself. You may want to clear the cowl vents and drains of all those pine needles and debris while you're at it - real PITA, but. Otherwise, there's gotta be a connection somewhere awry. I don't personally recall anyone other than a Ford parts house that would carry a replacement resistor 'network' or pack. I'd have to look it up. They can be tested fairly easy with a multimeter putting the black lead on one end and working your way from the closest tap to the farthest, if that makes sense.
Lifter tick on the ol' 2.9s is a given most of the time. I personally got mine a little quieter using 5W-30 and Purolator filters, although I have recently switched to Amsoil High Efficiency filter and full synthetic 5W-30 oil. You can probably search through the forum and see that the lifter tick issue is covered at least once, if not more
Lifter tick on the ol' 2.9s is a given most of the time. I personally got mine a little quieter using 5W-30 and Purolator filters, although I have recently switched to Amsoil High Efficiency filter and full synthetic 5W-30 oil. You can probably search through the forum and see that the lifter tick issue is covered at least once, if not more
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From: Atlanta GA
> i did notice was a bit of leaves and pine needles right next
The res. pack might still be good, what happens is all that stuff comes into contact with it and you can actually start a fire.
Clean it out as best as possible with a vacuum and crevice cleaner. Then go under the dash, go to the heater core, cut out the plastic screen, move the vents back and forth while vacuuming, until the vent door door opens and closes easily and you can no junk in there and can see and touch the heater core easily.
Now try your heater at different speeds. You probably just have stuff blocking the air flow.
The res. pack might still be good, what happens is all that stuff comes into contact with it and you can actually start a fire.
Clean it out as best as possible with a vacuum and crevice cleaner. Then go under the dash, go to the heater core, cut out the plastic screen, move the vents back and forth while vacuuming, until the vent door door opens and closes easily and you can no junk in there and can see and touch the heater core easily.
Now try your heater at different speeds. You probably just have stuff blocking the air flow.
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I am gonna go out on a limb here and agree with you teddy bear 100%.
I am thinking that the oil delivery is weak, 10% of the time the truck starts and runs with absolutely no tick, the other 90% the tick is there, and annoying as all hell.
I talked to the owners and they have never had that oil pan off, so i am wondering if there is just sludge build up in the pan, that is causing that weak delivery on most the occasion.
We will see when the weather is above 20 degrees.
I am thinking that the oil delivery is weak, 10% of the time the truck starts and runs with absolutely no tick, the other 90% the tick is there, and annoying as all hell.
I talked to the owners and they have never had that oil pan off, so i am wondering if there is just sludge build up in the pan, that is causing that weak delivery on most the occasion.
We will see when the weather is above 20 degrees.