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I think i got ripped?

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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 06:13 PM
  #1  
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Unhappy I think i got ripped?

Well, after getting my truck runing and wedging a stick, yes a stick, between the idle advance arm that was broken and the intake to hold plunger in, I drove it to the shop that rebuilt the IP about 2 years ago to get IP checked and timed. I guess I should have asked how much. I picked truck up today adn paid 681.01 for repair. Sound like a lot for replacing arm, plumger and timing IP. They took it off the truck, I didn't think they had to? Did I get ripped? Truck seems to shack a little ideling and now the Tachometer doesn't work! Is this normal? I am sick.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 06:20 PM
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Sorry to say but yea i think u did. I just got a rebuilt pump in today for $295 shipped. There's nothing to putting it on just a few bolts and lines. I call and find out exactly what they did. If they put on a whole new pump or rebuilt that one completely its not as bad but it still a little high i think.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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They said that the replaced the timing advance arm and plunger, timed the pump and reinstalled. I do have a banks sidewinder turbo, which was noted on receipt, but I didn't think that could cause it to be that high. They said the pump didn't need rebuilt, just arm and plunger replaced. They think water was froze and that is why it broke? What a bummer!! The receipt shoud 75 hour and 525 total labor!! Pretty SLOW, I think I might could do it for that and I've never done it before!
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 07:05 PM
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call and ask what flat rate manual they are using and how they arrived at 7.66 hours

they will no doubt drill you on your AFTERMARKET turbo
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 07:13 PM
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That is what I figure too. I will not be using them agsain! Thanks for info and God bless all!
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 08:30 PM
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Does the IP look like the same one?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 08:49 PM
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I gotta know what water was froze causing this.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 10:44 AM
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why didnt you just buy a brand new ip, 600 dollars? holy crap, i would have burned my truck in that guys parking lot before i paid that lol, if i was you i would never take anything to him again
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 07:38 PM
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YEP, I GOT SCRRREEEWWWEEEDDDD!!!! It is the same IP, just with new timing advance arm and plunger and NEWLY CALIBRATED, WOOHOOO!!!! Guess I need not to be intimidated to work on my own stuff huh!! I thought about leaving it there, but I figure it was best and easier, legally anyway, if I paid the bill and never go back again.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 07:41 PM
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yea man, im sorry that that place screwwed you over lo i guess we all learn from our expeirinces hat ever they may be
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 08:39 PM
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Education costs money.

The more something costs, the longer you remember it.

You did the right thing paying the bill, and you will remember this lesson a long time.

A reman IP would have been cheaper, and in a couple hours of your time you could have installed it.

1/2 the time was remove and install and timing the IP.
The rest was bench time for tear down, assembly and calibration.

But 7 hours was a long time.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 09:01 PM
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They didn't tear it down!! They think that water got into the timing advance plunger and froze(it was freezing when it happened) and when I started it the ice broke the arm???? There was water in the pan under the intake that was frozen after the arm broke and several days later when I investigated problem. I don't know if snow got near IP and froze around pump or? The shop thiks water in fuel did it, but, agin, they didn't tear IP down??
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 09:23 PM
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You should look up and see what "shop rate" for that service is. Most shops charge for the job, regardless of how long it takes them.

For example, replacing an alternator on a 1996 F-150 shop rate might be 0.75 hours. They will multiply 0.75 times their shop rate (for example $70.00 an hour) for a total of 52.50 plus parts and tax. This may take the mechanic 10 minutes or 10 hours, but the price is the same.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 11:06 PM
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The water seperator should have taken care of water in the fuel.
Even with a hose, you can't get enough water in the valley pan to freeze around that arm, it would run out way before that.

Did you leave the hood up in a freezing rain event before this happened?

That would be the only way I could see ice causing the problem.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 06:51 PM
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No I didn't leave the hood up, they think it was water in the fuel? Pretty far fetched I think. I did run the engine when I moved the truck from in front of our 5th and it had snow on the windshield that melted, but I know it didn't get around the TA arm and freeze it. No mater I guess, if it happens again I will not be a happy camper(sold 5th anyway LOL).
 
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