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Battery ?? kinda long

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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 06:08 PM
  #1  
RP27G8G's Avatar
RP27G8G
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Battery ?? kinda long

I'm on my fourth set of batteries in less than two years. I've checked everything for shorts, alternator, etc and everything comes up OK. The truck is a 91 F250 7.3 auto trans. The batteries are the MAXX batteries from Wal Mart. Fortunately they have a great warranty and that's why I bought them. A couple of friends have 92 f250 diesels and had similar problems with the same batteries.
So, am I missing something I should be checking? Seven months ago the E4OD went out and coincidentally the batteries went bad at the same time. I pulled the alternator and took it down and had it checked but the guy at the parts store couldn't find the adapter to test it on the machine so he gave me a new one. I took it and had the chargin system checked and all was well. That was June. In October I replaced the trans and all was well. The truck has only been driven about 250 miles with the new batteries. It sits most of the time and I drive it occasionally and when I don't I start it and let it run. No problems at all until a couple weeks ago I went out and it was completely dead. Took the batteries to Wal Mart and they are both bad.
Again, am I missing something? What other brand of battery should I buy? Thanks and sorry this is so long.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 06:14 PM
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bad12jr
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Did u check or change the voltage regulator?
What CCA are they and are the cables corroded at all internally.
I would go with Interstate. They have an excellent warrenty and are awesome batteries. Thats what is going my truck as soon as we start carrying them at work.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 06:27 PM
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Thanks!!! I've done all the tests and had the voltage regulator tested. I may replace it anyway as it looks original to the truck and the part isn't that costly. I did check on Interstate batteries but the $125 each is a bit steep. I know you get what you pay for...
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 09:31 PM
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OK, I finally got new batteries and was ablte to check most everything. I also got a new voltage regulator even though the old one was testing OK the part was cheap. I have a repair manual and did the tests. With the truck sitting and nothing on the batteries were at 12.7 volts each. With the truck running there was 14.4 at the batteries which, accoding to the manual is OK as long as it's within 2.5 volts of the baseline (12.7). I checked and have a constant 12 volts at the GPC with the key on. I did a draw test and it was zero. It looks like the batteries were the culprit unless there is a test I'm missing. Am I on track?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 10:03 PM
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If i remember right test each battery separate. If u know anyone with a battery tester have them test both or just ride to autozone and have them test them.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 10:51 PM
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Hey RP. Do you off-road or get this truck off the black top much? What I am getting at are the batt hold downs ok. Is there some cushion underneath them. There are batt. that may be good batt but won't take allot of shaking around before a cell is shakin loose and there it goes. Most of the time it will take the other batt in the pair with it. Example is a skidsteer. They can kill some batts in no time.

Yes, Batteries should be tested alone and fully charged. Watch some of those little hand held testers. They are not good for a high cca batt. They can't check one right. To really test one right you need a carbon pile to load it. Like a Vat 33 or 40. To do it right you load a fully charged batt at half the cca for 15 seconds. If it drops below 9.5 to 10 volts then it is bad. I am getting this from 25 years exp. on heavy trucks and equipment that use healthy batteries.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 11:08 PM
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Die Hard, and IMNSHO Die Hard Gold only...
In way over 100 I've had 2 that failed. Cars, Trucks, Equipment.

A battery is very much a case of "You get what you pay for"!

The pad underneath is there for insulation of shock and energy, Batteries do leak energy through the cases and should never be placed with the case grounded.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 11:14 PM
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I run two yellow top optimas. They are really expensive, but you do get what you pay for.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 11:52 PM
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Festus Hagen
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From: Maine (NorCal Native)
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Originally Posted by Hallworth
I run two yellow top optimas. They are really expensive, but you do get what you pay for.
My son put a yellow top in his Jetta TDI then took off for Calli to school, 9 months later after stranding him a couple of times it finally died completly, unfortunatly no Optima dealers out there would warranty it because it was bought at an Optima dealer in Maine....

That was our first and last experiance with Optimas!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 02:23 PM
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Thanks!! I don't off road. It looks like I do need new pads under the batteries and at least one of the hold downs needs replaced. I give those a try. Thanks again!
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 12:33 PM
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Could be solenoid

I had similar problems, tracked it down to a faulty solenoid in the transmission. When stuck it would cause a 1amp draw, flattening the batteries in a few days. Replacement fixed.
 
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