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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 06:04 PM
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Rear end rebuild

I have a 96 5.8 auto Bronco with over 200k miles on it. I will be in need of a new rear end at some soon in the near future. Before i go that route, I wanted to ask a few questions from you guys first.

The local mechanic here said he could do it for around 1200. Is this a reasonable price? Is this something the average shade tree person could do? Would the junk yard have something that I could swap out?

What do you think? Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 06:48 PM
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for your bronco any 93-96 bronco or F150 8.8 rear end would swap right over. the price you were quoted is crazy high. i payed that much to have both front and rear axles rebuilt with 4.88 gears, new front carrier, new ujoints in front axles and master rebuild kits.

if you keep up with maintenance on the front/rear diffs with proper gear oil change intervals you should not having anything to worry about other then bearings needing replaced. the axles and ring/pinion should last a long time.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 07:11 PM
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How do you know you need a rear end re-build? Is something else wrong besides the mileage? And X2 on Kem's comments. 1200 is crazy high.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 07:38 PM
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There is grinding noise coming from the rear. I can feel it backing up. It really obvious at low end speed. Not bad or even noticeable at high speed.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 10:01 PM
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It's worth pulling teh cover and see how things look. A low speed in reverse grind is a concern, but it doesn't mean a complete re-build is in order.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 07:57 AM
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You should pull the cover to make sure that things look okay. Metal shavings present in the pumpkin would suggest a need of major overhaul. Question though, have you checked to make sure the pinion nut is not loose on the rear axle input? If it is loose I believe that the pinion can be pulled into the pumpkin when you apply torque in the reverse direction, enough so that you may be hitting the diff when you back up. Just something you can check before opening the cover up on the differential.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 11:03 AM
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that pinion nut needs to be 80-120 ftlbs when you tighten it up if i recall
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 11:04 AM
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Roger that. Heck, it could even be brakes from the description.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 03:40 PM
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How do I know which spline do I have? If it is stock is it a 31spine seal?
 
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 08:47 AM
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Will this work with mine?

eBay Motors: BRONCO Ford 8.8" REAR END CARRIER BEARINGS REBUILD KIT (item 250378169707 end time Mar-04-09 12:08:07 PST)
 
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 09:58 AM
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I am thinking the noise (slight roar) is coming from the axle bearings (93 Bronco/5.8). Do the replacement bearings, the ones that move the rollers to the unworn part of the axle work very well? Alternatives are to replace axles with std bearings (not cheep!) or to replace the housing ends with a 9" style cup and use 9" axles. Can the 9" cups be used with the OEM axles (similar to the way the "C" clip eliminators work) and press on a 9" style bearing.

Bunch of questions, I know. I am tending to like the 9" ends, but that can get expensive---Now if 3.90's could be put in that "44"
 
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 01:37 PM
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First, vote is the pinion nut is loose. It can be tightened, but may need a new crush sleeve. The experts will all tell you to replace the sleev everytime you take the nut off. (or it backs off)

Benshere, That wheel bearing design is the worst part or the 8.8. Why they incorporated a ware item (wheel bearing) as part of a non ware item (axle) I'll never know. This was one of the reasons I went to the full float setup. In any case the repare kit (moves the bearing) does work for a while. If you have stock tires, it may work for a long time.

I heard the 9" end conversion is not recomended for trucks. Just straight line drag cars.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 02:15 PM
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Hey Rich!

TX---I know they dont recommend the C-clip eliminators for trucks because of side loading (I think thats the reason). I have done a couple of those on "stangs" and lighter Tbirds and they work pretty well, at least my tail hasnt dragged on the pavement-----yet

A local 4WD place down here suggested another option, which saws the end off the 8.8 tubes and welds on an end that is for a 9". Supposedly you can then use 9" axles in the 8.8 housing and have a full 9" bearing, pressed on so that no "wear" item is run on a "non-wear" part. There is a kit designed specifically for that purpose.

That is essentially what the "C" clip eliminator does except that the bearing housing part is not an integral part of the axle tube.

I am curious as to why the OEM 8.8 axles cannot have a 9" style bearing pressed on and then be used in the weld on part, instead of having to buy a new 9" axle set. I suppose if I had good sense, I would just do the "repair" bearings and be done with it----but then, you have never heard me say that I had good sense!!

I havnt been on 10 through your part of Fl for quite a while-----!
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 10:39 AM
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What years swap to what years?

Originally Posted by Kemicalburns
for your bronco any 93-96 bronco or F150 8.8 rear end would swap right over. the price you were quoted is crazy high. i payed that much to have both front and rear axles rebuilt with 4.88 gears, new front carrier, new ujoints in front axles and master rebuild kits.

if you keep up with maintenance on the front/rear diffs with proper gear oil change intervals you should not having anything to worry about other then bearings needing replaced. the axles and ring/pinion should last a long time.
Hey, Kemicalburns, I noticed the range you listed for the rear-end swap. I just bought a complete rear-end (brakes, drums, speed-sensor, everything ready to bolt in) from a guy on Craigslist for $150 because he said it would swap over to my 1994 Bronco (diff exploded). It was from his 1990 Bronco that he converted to 9" to use as a rock crawler.

Will a '90 8.8 not fit in my '94? I assumed that all "truck" 8.8's were interchangeable! Now I'm glad I waited.

Thanks,
-Derek
 
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 05:20 PM
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Helirich,

How do you go about tightening the pinion nut?
 
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