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I'd go with a much smaller fuse than a 0.5 or 1 amp fuse. Those LED's generally draw a maximum amperage of 15mA. A 0.5 amp is 500mA and that LED will be fried long before that fuse goes pop. The 0.5 amp will save the wiring, but not the LED.
I'd go with a much smaller fuse than a 0.5 or 1 amp fuse. Those LED's generally draw a maximum amperage of 15mA. A 0.5 amp is 500mA and that LED will be fried long before that fuse goes pop. The 0.5 amp will save the wiring, but not the LED.
Neal- that's the goal, protect the wiring. The LED's most of us are using have a built-in resistor so we won't be blowing them to bits by putting 12v of power to them.
I've been told anything less than 5amps is fine. Just be sure to put the fuse as close to the GPR as you can, and keep the wire tied up as best as possible. The goal here is to not have a long piece of wire with voltage running through it should things go haywire.
Neal- that's the goal, protect the wiring. The LED's most of us are using have a built-in resistor so we won't be blowing them to bits by putting 12v of power to them.
I've been told anything less than 5amps is fine. Just be sure to put the fuse as close to the GPR as you can, and keep the wire tied up as best as possible. The goal here is to not have a long piece of wire with voltage running through it should things go haywire.
I have my fuse holder right near the relay post, so that the entire length of the wire is protected. I have a 1 amp fuse. I used 14 ga speaker wire to run inside the truck. It was easy because the wiring was already there from my old switched 10k mod. I put the LED i n the dash where the switch used to be.