i could use some help
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Joined: Feb 2009
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i could use some help
my name is mitch ford, yes my last name is actually ford. i recently decided i was going to overhaul my 1977 f150 custom, so so far im prepped to pull the 351c out, but the trouble im having is that the rubber blocks on the mounts are so delapidated that there not breaking loose from the block. i hook my engine hoist up and it lifts the whole front end before the block breaks loose. im wondering if theres anyone out there thats done this before on my truck or one similar.
ive removed the air cleaner assembly, the rad hoses, the starter(because the oil pan contacted it when i tried to drop it), i tried to remove the oil pan but it hits the cross-member which is welded to the frame, thats actually what sparked the engine pull. my email is cursed_child2020@hotmail.com if theres anyone out there that could offer some help it'd be much appreciated. thank you..
ive removed the air cleaner assembly, the rad hoses, the starter(because the oil pan contacted it when i tried to drop it), i tried to remove the oil pan but it hits the cross-member which is welded to the frame, thats actually what sparked the engine pull. my email is cursed_child2020@hotmail.com if theres anyone out there that could offer some help it'd be much appreciated. thank you..
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,593
Likes: 2
From: Prairieville, La
I agree on the mounts.
It is a whole lot easier to take the complete front cap off the frame. Two people can lift it easily. Remove the hood, front bumper,undo the 2 bolts on either side of the radiator, a bolt on the bottom of each fender near the cab, a bolt on both sides middle of the cab between the door and fender, and 3 bolts on each side at the cowl on the inner fenders.
Sometimes there is a small rubber strap from the inner fender to the firewall. The wire harness disconnects at the firewall.
It is a simple process that gives better viewing and access to your motor, exhaust, and starter.
You also do not have to worry about the engine banging stuff up under the hood and makes cleaning much better.
If I missed anything please chime in guys and gals.
It is a whole lot easier to take the complete front cap off the frame. Two people can lift it easily. Remove the hood, front bumper,undo the 2 bolts on either side of the radiator, a bolt on the bottom of each fender near the cab, a bolt on both sides middle of the cab between the door and fender, and 3 bolts on each side at the cowl on the inner fenders.
Sometimes there is a small rubber strap from the inner fender to the firewall. The wire harness disconnects at the firewall.
It is a simple process that gives better viewing and access to your motor, exhaust, and starter.
You also do not have to worry about the engine banging stuff up under the hood and makes cleaning much better.
If I missed anything please chime in guys and gals.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
wonderboy22,
Is it a 2wd or 4wd and what transmission? I pulled a 351M out of my 78 F250 2wd which should be similar to yours if it is 2wd. The motor mounts on mine were one piece. They were attached to the block by three bolts and then had one stud that went into a hole in the R and L engine perch that was secured by a nut. The book I have states that the motor mounts needed to be removed to get the engine out with a 351M/400 or 460 because of the height of the block. I left my mounts attached to the block and was able to get the engine out, but had to move it side to side to get one stud out at a time after the tranny let go. Double check that you have all of the wires disconnected, including the gound wire from the firewall, and any thing else that you don't want coming out like the PS pump and tranny.
Is it a 2wd or 4wd and what transmission? I pulled a 351M out of my 78 F250 2wd which should be similar to yours if it is 2wd. The motor mounts on mine were one piece. They were attached to the block by three bolts and then had one stud that went into a hole in the R and L engine perch that was secured by a nut. The book I have states that the motor mounts needed to be removed to get the engine out with a 351M/400 or 460 because of the height of the block. I left my mounts attached to the block and was able to get the engine out, but had to move it side to side to get one stud out at a time after the tranny let go. Double check that you have all of the wires disconnected, including the gound wire from the firewall, and any thing else that you don't want coming out like the PS pump and tranny.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 784
From: Simi Valley, CA
Welcome to FTE
If the engine is the original, it is not a 351C.
Ford never installed these engines in anything else but 1970/74 passenger cars and Ranchero's.
1977/79 2WD V8 engines choices: 302/351M/400/460.
1977/79 4WD V8 engine choices: 351M/400.
The engine code is the 4th digit of the VIN.
1977/79: B = 300-I-6 / G = 302 2V / H = 351M 2V / S = 400 2V / J = 460 4V.
If the engine is the original, it is not a 351C.
Ford never installed these engines in anything else but 1970/74 passenger cars and Ranchero's.
1977/79 2WD V8 engines choices: 302/351M/400/460.
1977/79 4WD V8 engine choices: 351M/400.
The engine code is the 4th digit of the VIN.
1977/79: B = 300-I-6 / G = 302 2V / H = 351M 2V / S = 400 2V / J = 460 4V.
